#40 - Grief, Risk and Freedom: Climber Brette Harrington on Fear, Loss & Flow

Brette is addressing how to keep living — and performing — fully in the face of fear, grief, and events you can’t control. She’s showing listeners how to trust their own inner voice, manage real risk, and rebuild a meaningful life after trauma instead of letting other people’s fears or expectations dictate their choices.  In today’s conversation Brette Harrington explores how a life built in the mountains has shaped her resilience, creativity, and sense of purpose. She shares her journey from skiing with her parents in Lake Tahoe to boarding school in New Hampshire, discovering rock climbing, and eventually becoming one of the world’s leading trad climbers, alpinists, and free soloists — including the first free solo of the 2,500-foot Chiaro di Luna (5.11a) in Patagonia. She and Dr. Wells talk through her serious ski accident and broken neck, the years of big-wall and alpine climbing with her partner Marc-André Leclerc, and the devastating avalanche that took his life in 2018. Brette explains why she chose to return to the mountains against others’ advice, how she now manages fear on big objectives, and why moving slowly, breathing deeply, and listening to her energy are non-negotiable for both safety and performance. You will learn how Brette’s progression from ski racing and freestyle skiing into sport, trad, big wall, and ultimately high-end alpine climbing gave her an unusually broad toolkit for huge mountain objectives. You will learn how she thinks about skill acquisition: layering disciplines over time (rock, ice, mixed, skiing) and deliberately seeking terrain that exposes her weaknesses so she keeps growing.  You will learn her practical process for managing fear on a route — starting with honest morning self-assessment, choosing objectives that match her mental energy, and then using breath, heart-rate awareness, and deliberate relaxation to prevent the “overgrip” that leads to mistakes. You will also learn how she navigated breaking her neck in a ski crash, the slow rehab and Atlas realignment work that followed, and how she used running, yoga, and core training to rebuild enough capacity to establish demanding new alpine routes like Life Compass, The Sound of Silence, MA’s Vision, and Just a Nibble after Marc-André’s death. You will discover that calm is a trainable physiological state, not a personality trait — by choosing your days carefully, focusing on breathing, and relaxing your grip, you can keep your brain and body working even when exposure, risk, or stress spike. You will discover that sometimes the most courageous move after loss is to ignore the chorus of “shoulds,” follow the environment where you genuinely heal, and honour the people you’ve lost by continuing the work you started together. Many people feel paralysed by fear — of failure, of risk, of what others will think — especially after something traumatic happens. Brette’s experience shows how to respect real danger while refusing to let fear or outside opinions shrink your life, giving listeners a blueprint for returning to their version of the “big mountains” after injury, grief, or setbacks.