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Episode 7: Umbhinqo

Episode 7 of the Imiphindo kwaXhosa podcast, hosted by Siviwe James, titled "Episode 7: Umbhinqo" was published on September 24, 2023 and runs 5 minutes.

September 24, 2023 ·5m · Imiphindo kwaXhosa

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Umbhinqo: Kubhinqa abatheni xa kutheni?Narrated by uMama Makholi, a revered maker at the Willowvale Arts Center, this episode brings us into the intricate folds of Xhosa dress practices—specifically umbhinqo and isishuba. With clarity and care, she details which folds adorn which body and for what occasion.Often associated with the feminine form, umbhinqo—the act of wrapping cloth around the body—extends far beyond gender. It is an embodied gesture of respect, a practice of reverence toward ancestry and social codes. With Mama Makholi as our guide, we come to understand how each fold, each fabric, carries histories that reach deep into the heart of Xhosa life.In our conversation, we also encounter isishuba, the traditional garment for men. Through her teaching, we begin to appreciate the craftsmanship, colour logic, and ritual significance embedded in these garments. As we listen, we are invited to consider: when we re-appropriate these garments in modern contexts, what meanings are we honouring—and which might we be folding out of view?“Umbhinqo akufani nokubhinqa. Enye yimpahla, enye sisithethe.”CLOSING ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSNarrating VoicesMr Mangaliso JaftaAzola KrweqeMs Nobuhle JamesMrs Nokhaya JilingisaMama PhakaniZizo NtukusheVisual & Video ContributorsAzola KrweqeSibabalwe MakeleniCommunity ContributorsThe James Family – ooXabaMrs Kutazwa JamesMrs Nokugcina James (special thanks for the recording of umsebenzi kaMnu. Luphumlo James)Mrs LudidiMs Phumla JamesMs Nobuhle JamesWillowvale Makers Co-opKholiswa MagidiTheko Theo YinindwaPhiliswa MatutuNwabisa MahlaleshushuMiranda SiwlabeniYouth ParticipantsZintle BonakeleVuyokazi MnconoLethu JilingisiNokubonga HawuLisakhanya PoniYolande TskaneLiyabona NtshobodwanaBuyiswa Beauty NduweCommunity yakuGatyanaCebisa MagoqozaMzukisi NketshuThando MadwantsiThobile TsutsuSikelela ThobigunyaNeliswa BambintalaMiranda SihlanguAnd the broader community at largeSpecial thanks to:Azola KrweqeLukhanyo MuluseLocations ReferencedWillowvale Arts Center, kuGatyaneJames Family Home – Elukhanyisweni, eQumbu, eMdeniMr & Mrs James’ Residence – Highbury, UmtataJames Residence – Walmer Road Lodge, Beacon Bay, East LondonNgumla Family Home – eGcibala, TsomoMpintsha Family Home – Nkanga, WillowvaleBuffalo City MunicipalityProduction TeamExecutive Producer: Bongani TauCurator & Editor: Siviwe JamesContent Advisor: Sihle SogaulaGraphic Design: 2DOTS Space AgencyVideo & Sound Editing: Siviwe JamesText: Siviwe JamesXhosa Language Advisor: Ms Nobuhle JamesDigital Archiving SupportArt Meets AppInstitutional SupportEastern Cape Department of Sports, Arts and CultureUN/FOLDING_RE/FOLDING_FOLDED: Imiphindo kwaXhosa © 2023 Created and produced by Siviwe James (James-Laurie) With support from the African Fashion Research Institute (AFRI) and Creative Nestlings Foundation, under the New Narratives Programme (2023).Licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International

Umbhinqo: Kubhinqa abatheni xa kutheni?


Narrated by uMama Makholi, a revered maker at the Willowvale Arts Center, this episode brings us into the intricate folds of Xhosa dress practices—specifically umbhinqo and isishuba. With clarity and care, she details which folds adorn which body and for what occasion.


Often associated with the feminine form, umbhinqo—the act of wrapping cloth around the body—extends far beyond gender. It is an embodied gesture of respect, a practice of reverence toward ancestry and social codes. With Mama Makholi as our guide, we come to understand how each fold, each fabric, carries histories that reach deep into the heart of Xhosa life.


In our conversation, we also encounter isishuba, the traditional garment for men. Through her teaching, we begin to appreciate the craftsmanship, colour logic, and ritual significance embedded in these garments. As we listen, we are invited to consider: when we re-appropriate these garments in modern contexts, what meanings are we honouring—and which might we be folding out of view?


“Umbhinqo akufani nokubhinqa. Enye yimpahla, enye sisithethe.”


CLOSING ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Narrating Voices

Mr Mangaliso Jafta

Azola Krweqe

Ms Nobuhle James

Mrs Nokhaya Jilingisa

Mama Phakani

Zizo Ntukushe


Visual & Video Contributors

Azola Krweqe

Sibabalwe Makeleni


Community Contributors

The James Family – ooXaba

Mrs Kutazwa James

Mrs Nokugcina James (special thanks for the recording of umsebenzi kaMnu. Luphumlo James)

Mrs Ludidi

Ms Phumla James

Ms Nobuhle James


Willowvale Makers Co-op

Kholiswa Magidi

Theko Theo Yinindwa

Philiswa Matutu

Nwabisa Mahlaleshushu

Miranda Siwlabeni


Youth Participants

Zintle Bonakele

Vuyokazi Mncono

Lethu Jilingisi

Nokubonga Hawu

Lisakhanya Poni

Yolande Tskane

Liyabona Ntshobodwana

Buyiswa Beauty Nduwe


Community yakuGatyana

Cebisa Magoqoza

Mzukisi Nketshu

Thando Madwantsi

Thobile Tsutsu

Sikelela Thobigunya

Neliswa Bambintala

Miranda Sihlangu

And the broader community at large


Special thanks to:

Azola Krweqe

Lukhanyo Muluse


Locations Referenced

Willowvale Arts Center, kuGatyane

James Family Home – Elukhanyisweni, eQumbu, eMdeni

Mr & Mrs James’ Residence – Highbury, Umtata

James Residence – Walmer Road Lodge, Beacon Bay, East London

Ngumla Family Home – eGcibala, Tsomo

Mpintsha Family Home – Nkanga, Willowvale

Buffalo City Municipality


Production Team

Executive Producer: Bongani Tau

Curator & Editor: Siviwe James

Content Advisor: Sihle Sogaula

Graphic Design: 2DOTS Space Agency

Video & Sound Editing: Siviwe James

Text: Siviwe James

Xhosa Language Advisor: Ms Nobuhle James


Digital Archiving Support

Art Meets App


Institutional Support

Eastern Cape Department of Sports, Arts and Culture


UN/FOLDING_RE/FOLDING_FOLDED: Imiphindo kwaXhosa © 2023 Created and produced by Siviwe James (James-Laurie) With support from the African Fashion Research Institute (AFRI) and Creative Nestlings Foundation, under the New Narratives Programme (2023).

Licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International

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