EPISODE · Mar 16, 2026 · 1H 2M
Unexpected Winners in a Down Market – Independents, Microbrands & Neo-vintage – Episode 72
from Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry · host Collective Horology
The Swiss watch industry is in one of its most difficult periods in decades, with ten established brands down 15% or more in revenue — but that doesn't mean everything is struggling. In this episode, Gabe and Asher explore three segments of the market that are thriving against the tide: independent watchmakers, microbrands brands, and neo-vintage. Along the way, they examine why brands like Breguet, Roger Dubuis, and Girard-Perregaux may have upside despite their current numbers, while others like Blancpain and Panerai remain stuck. The conversation also teases an exciting new brand partnership launching on Collective Horology's website. Independent watchmakers are winning on the back of creativity, risk-taking, and a business structure that resists commoditization. Using MB&F's Google Trends data and Czapek's shareholder financials as case studies, Gabe and Asher unpack why these brands are gaining both mind share and revenue — and why their tight retail ecosystems protect the value proposition that mass-market brands have lost. They also coin a new term for the sub-$5,000 segment: "challenger brands," a category that encompasses microbrands and independents alike, from Christopher Ward and Fears to Studio Underdog and Brew. These brands are eroding the traditional luxury moat, aided by a media landscape shift that rewards authenticity over gatekeeping. The final winner in a down market is neo-vintage — watches from the 1990s and early 2000s that offer smaller proportions, better wearability, and tremendous value relative to their modern counterparts. Gabe highlights rising prices on references like the Rolex 14060, 16710, and 14270, noting the uptick predates tariffs and reflects a genuine shift in collector taste, particularly among Gen Z buyers. Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, and IWC are standouts in this space, with neo-vintage pieces that feel more relevant to today's preferences than what those same brands currently produce. It's a trend the hosts believe will only accelerate — and one that established brands ignore at their own risk. Openwork is a weekly podcast about how the watch industry actually works. An unfiltered look behind the scenes — no press releases, no hype, and no sponsored takes. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology. Available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, YouTube Music, or wherever you get your podcasts. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email [email protected].
What this episode covers
The Swiss watch industry is in one of its most difficult periods in decades, with ten established brands down 15% or more in revenue — but that doesn't mean everything is struggling. In this episode, Gabe and Asher explore three segments of the market that are thriving against the tide: independent watchmakers, microbrands brands, and neo-vintage. Along the way, they examine why brands like Breguet, Roger Dubuis, and Girard-Perregaux may have upside despite their current numbers, while others like Blancpain and Panerai remain stuck. The conversation also teases an exciting new brand partnership launching on Collective Horology's website. Independent watchmakers are winning on the back of creativity, risk-taking, and a business structure that resists commoditization. Using MB&F's Google Trends data and Czapek's shareholder financials as case studies, Gabe and Asher unpack why these brands are gaining both mind share and revenue — and why their tight retail ecosystems protect the value proposition that mass-market brands have lost. They also coin a new term for the sub-$5,000 segment: "challenger brands," a category that encompasses microbrands and independents alike, from Christopher Ward and Fears to Studio Underdog and Brew. These brands are eroding the traditional luxury moat, aided by a media landscape shift that rewards authenticity over gatekeeping. The final winner in a down market is neo-vintage — watches from the 1990s and early 2000s that offer smaller proportions, better wearability, and tremendous value relative to their modern counterparts. Gabe highlights rising prices on references like the Rolex 14060, 16710, and 14270, noting the uptick predates tariffs and reflects a genuine shift in collector taste, particularly among Gen Z buyers. Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, and IWC are standouts in this space, with neo-vintage pieces that feel more relevant to today's preferences than what those same brands currently produce. It's a trend the hosts believe will only accelerate — and one that established brands ignore at their own risk. Openwork is a weekly podcast about how the watch industry actually works. An unfiltered look behind the scenes — no press releases, no hype, and no sponsored takes. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology. Available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, YouTube Music, or wherever you get your podcasts. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email [email protected].
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Unexpected Winners in a Down Market – Independents, Microbrands & Neo-vintage – Episode 72
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