PODCAST · arts
Dirtbag State of Mind podcast, from The Climbing Zine
by Luke Mehall
A climbing podcast from The Climbing Zine
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119
The Dark Wizard Whisperer with Jim Hurst
Luke chats with Jim Hurst, a dear friend of Dean Potter's, from the new Dark Wizard film. Our sponsors for this episode: Patagonia: http://www.patagonia.com/ Kilter: https://settercloset.com/ Use code “zine” at checkout for a discount on your Kilter board. Osprey: https://www.osprey.com/ Shop Climbing Zine: Subscribe to The Climbing Zine/ score Dirtbag State of Mind goods: https://shop.climbingzine.com/
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118
Pursuing The Struggle with Felipe Garcia (Dirtbag Classic)
A Dirtbag Classic with Felipe Garcia Our sponsors for this episode: Patagonia: Check out the new Big Wall Kit Kilter: https://settercloset.com/ Use code “zine” at checkout for a discount on your Kilter board. Shop Climbing Zine: Subscribe to The Climbing Zine/ score Dirtbag State of Mind goods: https://shop.climbingzine.com/ Source
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117
10th anniversary of American Climber (Bonus)
Luke Mehall shares some words on the 10th anniversary of his memoir, American Climber. Shop Climbing Zine: Subscribe to The Climbing Zine/ score Dirtbag State of Mind goods: https://shop.climbingzine.com/ Source
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116
Poetry in Motion with Karly Rager
Luke has a conversation with Karly Rager, who contributed a feature essay, Permission Slip, to the latest Zine, Volume 26. Our sponsors for this episode: Patagonia: Check out the new Big Wall Kit Kilter: https://settercloset.com/ Use code “zine” at checkout for a discount on your Kilter board. Shop Climbing Zine: Subscribe to The Climbing Zine/ score Dirtbag State of Mind goods… Source
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115
Climbing with Multitudes with Ashima Shiraishi
Ashima Shiraishi discusses their journey in climbing, art, meditation, writing, film, ecology, and more. Our sponsors for this episode: Patagonia: Check out the new Big Wall Kit Kilter: https://settercloset.com/ Use code “zine” at checkout for a discount on your Kilter board. Shop Climbing Zine: Subscribe to The Climbing Zine/ score Dirtbag State of Mind goods: https://shop. Source
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114
From Prodigy to OG with Chris Sharma
Luke Mehall has a conversation with his all time favorite climber: Chris Sharma. Our sponsors for this episode: Patagonia: Check out the new Big Wall Kit Kilter: https://settercloset.com/ Use code “zine” at checkout for a discount on your Kilter board. Shop Climbing Zine: Subscribe to The Climbing Zine/ score Dirtbag State of Mind goods: https://shop.climbingzine.com/ Source
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113
Untroubled with Alex Honnold (Dirtbag Classic)
Revisiting this “Dirtbag Classic” with Alex Honnold. Subscribe to The Zine: https://shop.climbingzine.com/ Check out our new Send Your Face shirts: https://shop.climbingzine.com/collections/new-dirtbag-clothing-lines… Source
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112
In Love with Climbing with Sonnie Trotter, Part 2
Part 2 of our conversation with Sonnie Trotter, author of the new book “Uplifted” and host of the podcast “Stronger Than You Think”. Our sponsors for Season 7: Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email [email protected] for more information) Osprey: https://www.osprey.com/ Scarpa. Use this link to shop Scarpa products, and The Zine will get a portion of the sale: https://alnk.to/ Source
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111
Creeksgiving by Luke Mehall (Dirtbag Classic)
Luke Mehall reads his essay “Creeksgiving” originally published in The Alpinist, issue 48. Our sponsors for Season 7: Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email [email protected] for more information) Osprey: https://www.osprey.com/ Scarpa. Use this link to shop Scarpa products, and The Zine will get a portion of the sale: https://alnk.to/3ye6GT2 Subscribe/ score some books/clothes/ Source
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110
Help On The Way at Cave Wall West
In celebration of the 10th anniversary of the first route at Cave Wall, a story read by Luke Mehall Our sponsors for Season 7: Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email [email protected] for more information) Osprey: https://www.osprey.com/ Scarpa. Use this link to shop Scarpa products, and The Zine will get a portion of the sale: https://alnk.to/3ye6GT2 Subscribe/ score some books/ Source
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109
In Love with Climbing with Sonnie Trotter, Part 1
Part 1 of our conversation with Sonnie Trotter, author of the new book “Uplifted”. Our sponsors for Season 7: Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email [email protected] for more information) Osprey: https://www.osprey.com/ Scarpa. Use this link to shop Scarpa products, and The Zine will get a portion of the sale: https://alnk.to/3ye6GT2 Subscribe/ score some books/clothes/ Source
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108
Preview of our Sonnie Trotter Conversation (with Cliff Cash poetry)
A preview of our upcoming two part episode with Sonnie Trotter. Plus a poem “Climbing Romeo and Juliet” by Cliff Cash. Photo of Sonnie on Cobra Crack, Squamish by Paul Bride… Source
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107
The Low Key Legend with Jimmie Dunn (Dirtbag Classic)
A rerun of our conversation with Jimmie Dunn from 2022. Our sponsors for Season 7: Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email [email protected] for more information) Osprey: https://www.osprey.com/ Scarpa. Use this link to shop Scarpa products, and The Zine will get a portion of the sale: https://alnk.to/3ye6GT2 Subscribe/ score some books/clothes/stickers: https://shop.climbingzine. Source
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106
TC The OG with Tommy Caldwell (Dirtbag Classic)
A rerun of our conversation with Tommy Caldwell from 2022, recorded in his van in Estes Park, Colorado. Big thanks to Shaun Matusewicz for joining on the adventure and helping with the interview! Our sponsors for Season 7: Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email [email protected] for more information) Osprey: https://www.osprey.com/ Scarpa. Use this link to shop Scarpa products, and The Zine will get a portion of the sale: https://alnk.to/3ye6GT2 Subscribe/ score some books/clothes/stickers: https://shop.climbingzine.com/
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105
From Tech to Tolstoy and Trad Climbing with Sam MacIlwaine
Luke’s conversation with Sam MacIlwaine, who contributed the poem “Dirtbag” to Volume 25 of The Climbing Zine, and is also featured on the back cover of that issue. Subscribe/ score some books/clothes/stickers: https://shop.climbingzine.com/ Our sponsors for Season 7: Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email [email protected] for more information) Osprey: https://www.osprey.com/ Source
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104
Don’t Be A Trad Princess with Mary Eden
To kick off Luke’s summer climbing road trip, he stopped in Moab, Utah for this conversation with Mary Eden, also known as the Trad Princess. Our sponsors for Season 7: Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email [email protected] for more information) Osprey: https://www.osprey.com/ Scarpa. Use this link to shop Scarpa products, and The Zine will get a portion of the sale: https… Source
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103
Dirtbag Rich: Blake Boles and Luke Mehall
Another conversation where Luke is the guest. This episode is from the “Dirtbag Rich” podcast, hosted by Blake Boles. Our sponsors for Season 7: Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email [email protected] for more information) Osprey: https://www.osprey.com/ Scarpa. Use this link to shop Scarpa products, and The Zine will get a portion of the sale: https://alnk.to/3ye6GT2 Subscribe/ Source
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102
Life Is A Beautiful Struggle: Ryan Devlin and Luke Mehall
The tables are turned on our host, Luke Mehall, as we share this episode of his appearance on The Struggle Climbing Show, hosted by Ryan Devlin. Our sponsors for Season 7: Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email [email protected] for more information) Osprey: https://www.osprey.com/ Scarpa. Use this link to shop Scarpa products, and The Zine will get a portion of the sale: https… Source
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101
The Art of The Belaytionship with Andy Vo
Our premiere for Season 7: a conversation with Andy Vo. Our sponsors for Season 7: Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email [email protected] for more information) Osprey: https://www.osprey.com/ Scarpa. Use this link to shop Scarpa products, and The Zine will get a portion of the sale: https://alnk.to/3ye6GT2 Subscribe/ score some books/clothes/stickers: https://shop.climbingzine. Source
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100
A Letter And Poem for Kurt Blair
A second preseason episode before we kick off Season 7. A letter and poem for our dear friend Kurt Blair, who passed away last year. Poem read by Marcus Garcia, and letter read by host Luke Mehall. Source
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99
Everybody Climbs in Indian Creek with Tim Foulkes
A preseason episode before we launch Season 7. Originally aired in 2020 near the end of Season 1. Season 7 kicks off later this month. … Source
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98
The Dirtbags Aren’t Dead, They’re Just In Mexico
Luke Mehall reads “The Dirtbags Aren’t Dead, They’re Just In Mexico” published in the new issue of The Climbing Zine, Volume 25, now available. Photo by Ivan Ioza https://shop.climbingzine.com/ Our sponsors for Season 6: Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email [email protected] for more information) Scarpa: www.scarpa.com Mountain Project / OnX: https://www.mountainproject.com/ Source
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97
Untroubled with Alex Honnold
“I climb my best 4,000 feet off the ground” – Alex Honnold. Luke Mehall + Alex Honnold in a dirtbag state of mind. … Source
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96
The Mom Crux with Mallory Logan (co-hosted by Shaun Matusewicz)
We finally get to sit down with Mallory Logan, the Art Director for The Climbing Zine, to have a conversation about the history of The Zine and Dirtbag State of Mind. Plus the crux of becoming a Mom at 21 years old. Co-hosted by Shaun Matusewicz, our Publisher Emeritus. Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Score 15% off anything in our online store… Source
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95
Beats, Climbs, and Life: A Conversation with Kris Hampton
The last in our series of conversations recorded in Lander, Wyoming this summer, with Kris Hampton of Power Company Climbing. Kris is our first repeat guest, and we discuss climbing friendships, the Olympics, hip-hop and much more. Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Score 15% off anything in our online store Our sponsors for Season 6: Kilter… Source
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94
You Belong Here: A Conversation With Steve Bechtel
The second conversation from our series of interviews in Lander, Wyoming. Steve Bechtel is a local legend in Lander, and runs two successful businesses: Climb Strong and Elemental Fitness. We have a really fun conversation ranging from old climbing stories of his with Todd Skinner, to the modern world of work, business, publishing, and climbing. Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon… Source
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93
Holding Space and Leading The Way: A Conversation with Shara Zaia
The first of our series of conversations recorded this summer in Lander, Wyoming. Shara Zaia wrote a beautiful piece is Volume 24, our current issue, and we discuss that essay and much more. Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Score 15% off anything in our online store Our sponsors for Season 6: Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email [email protected] for more information) Scarpa: www.scarpa.com Mountain Project / OnX: https://www.mountainproject.com/ Osprey: https://www.osprey.com/ Photo of Shara by Zoe Rayor
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92
Introducing The Microdose Mixtape
Introducing our first ever mixtape from The Climbing Zine. The Microdose Mixtape pairs Luke Mehall’s spoken word poetry, with the music of Devin Dabney. Enjoy. Merch is available here: https://shop.climbingzine.com/ Tapes and vinyl will be available shortly… Source
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91
From The Ice Rink To The Ice Climb with Taylor Luneau
A conversation with Taylor Luneau. Taylor discovered climbing after an injury derailed his ice hockey career. Taylor and Luke have a wide ranging conversation from local climbing organizations to the relationship of climate change and ice climbing, and much more. Plus in the outro is the premiere of the poem 5.6+ from the upcoming Microdose Mixtape. Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon… Source
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90
Sharp Edges: Holding On By Letting Go by Shara Zaia
Shara Zaia reads her essay published in Volume 24 of The Climbing Zine. Plus a bonus tune from James Parr, inspired by Greg Petliski’s essay, Scotch on The Rocks, also published in Volume 24. Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Our sponsors for Season 5: Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email [email protected] for more information)… Source
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89
Climbs Fall Apart by Luke Mehall
Luke Mehall reads his piece, “Climbs Fall Apart” which is published in Volume 24 of The Climbing Zine; the episode ends with his poem “A Climber Who Cries” from the upcoming Microdose Mixtape. Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Score 15% off anything in our online store Our sponsors for Season 5: Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email holds@ Source
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88
Pursuing The Struggle with Felipe Garcia
A conversation with Felipe Garcia. Felipe and Luke have a conversation about climbing in Guatemala, first ascents, living, working, and training on a boat for two months, and much more at the outdoor studio in El Potrero Chico, Mexico. Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Score 15% off anything in our online store Our sponsors for Season 6… Source
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87
Climbing Is Not About Climbing with Chad Reich
A preseason conversation with our digital editor and producer Chad Reich. Plus a poem from our upcoming Microdose Mixtape. Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Score 15% off anything in our online store… Source
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86
A Love Letter To The Firebrand by Luke Mehall
Luke reads his “Love Letter To The Firebrand” the final episode of Season 5. With a special guest surprise from Heidi Magnus. Subscribe + Keep The Zine Alive: https://shop.climbingzine.com/ Source
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85
Slab is Sexy and Inclusivity is Hot with Anna Hazelnutt
A conversation with filmmaker, climber, and lover of slab Anna Hazelnutt. Anna bridges the old school and new school with an honest, vulnerable voice that is a breath of fresh air in the climbing world. Anna’s YouTube page Anna’s IG Anna’s Etsy page Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Score 15% off anything in our online store Our sponsors… Source
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84
Evening Sends and Resistance Climbing with Andrew Bisharat
A conversation with writer, climber, and podcaster Andrew Bisharat. Andrew is a major part of the award winning film Resistance Climbing, which was part of the Reel Rock film tour this year. Evening Sends (Andrew’s website) The Runout Podcast Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Score 15% off anything in our online store Our sponsors for… Source
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83
Exploring The Lines of Climbing and Writing with Greg Pettys
A conversation with my brother from another, Greg Pettys. Greg is an original contributor to The Climbing Zine, and though he’s not an obsessive climber, he has the heart of a climber. Greg Pettys’s Substack Luke’s Substack Hip Hop and Climbing Vol. 1 Playlist curated by The Zine Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Score 15% Source
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82
The Roots of The Zine with Bryant Aucoin of Sticker Art
A conversation with my dear friend Bryant Aucoin, of Stickerart.com from his podcast, “So What Do You Like To Do”. Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Score 15% off anything in our online store Our sponsors for Season 5: Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email [email protected] for more information) Scarpa: www.scarpa.com Edelrid… Source
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81
ASCA: Making a World of Difference with Nate Liles
The American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA) is the leading bolt replacement group in the United States. This conversation with Nate Liles, highlights the history and work of ASCA, and the nuance that goes along with all things bolts. Support ASCA / learn more about their work: https://safeclimbing.org/ Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Score… Source
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80
Keeping The Zine Alive with The Runout
A conversation about keeping our printed zine alive with our friends at The Runout. Big thanks to Andrew Bisharat and Chris Kalous for this interview. Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Score 15% off anything in our online store Our sponsors for Season 5: Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email [email protected] for more information)… Source
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79
To Live and Die in Yosemite
Luke Mehall reads his essay, “To Live and Die in Yosemite” published in The Climbing Zine Volume 23. Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Score 15% off anything in our online store Our sponsors for Season 5: Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email [email protected] for more information) Scarpa: www.scarpa.com Edelrid: https://edelrid.com/ Source
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78
On Mole with Mark Grundon
Our second episode recorded in El Potrero Chico, Mexico, is with Mark Grundon. Mark and Luke have been friends for over twenty years, and have experienced many highs and lows together. Mark is a prolific route developer in Mexico, and he’s the owner of El Potrero Chico Guides. El Potrero Chico Guides Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Score 15% Source
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77
Sueños de Altura en Mexico with Becky Zunigar
Our first episode recorded in El Potrero Chico, Mexico is with Becky Zunigar, who is the producer of the film Sueños de Altura, a documentary about the pioneers of climbing in Mexico. Sueños de Altura on Instagram Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE ALIVE + Subscribe Score 15% off anything in our online store Our sponsors for Season 5: Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email [email protected] for more information) Scarpa: www.scarpa.com Edelrid: https://edelrid.com/us-en Osprey: https://www.osprey.com/
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76
10 – Season 4 – So You Got Your Knee Stuck by Kaya Lindsay
Our final episode for Season 4 is a story read by Kaya Lindsay. This story was published in Volume 22 of The Zine. We never publish “how-to” material, but after hearing so many stories about climbers getting knees stuck in cracks, we figured this would be a good “zine-style” piece on the subject matter. Visit Kaya’s site: https://www.onechicktravels.com Kaya’s YouTube page: https://www.youtube. Source
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75
9 – Season 4 – Finding Nuggets in The Climbing World, A Conversation with Steven Dimmitt
Two podcasts at once! I chat with Steven Dimmitt of the popular Nugget Climbing Podcast. We take turns interviewing each other, and really get into the history of what we do, and the challenging side of a “dream job”. Visit The Nugget: www.thenuggetclimbing.com Check out some more stories/content: www.climbingzine.com Discount link for 15% off any product (except subscriptions) in our… Source
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74
8 – Season 4 – Creeksgiving
Mehall reads the essay “Creeksgiving”. A tale of the old school celebration in the Super Bowl campground. Check out some more stories/content: www.climbingzine.com Discount link for 15% off any product (except subscriptions) in our online store: https://shop.climbingzine.com/discount/DIRTBAGPODCAST15 Support the podcast on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/theclimbingzine Our sponsors… Source
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73
7 – Season 4 – Back To The Gravity Lab, A Conversation with Sebastiaan Zuidweg
A conversation with Sebastiaan Zuidweg about building a climbing gym from scratch. Gravity Lab opens up in Durango, Colorado this month! Gravity Lab Check out some more stories/content: www.climbingzine.com Discount link for 15% off any product (except subscriptions) in our online store: https://shop.climbingzine.com/discount/DIRTBAGPODCAST15 Support the podcast on Patreon: https://www. Source
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72
6 – Season 4 – Adventures With Two Tent Timmy (Zine Classic)
Adventures With Two Tent Timmy is a zine classic, that will be republished in The Climbing Zine Book 2, now available to preorder. Read and written by Luke Mehall. Check out some more stories/content: www.climbingzine.com Discount link for 15% off any product (except subscriptions) in our online store: https://shop.climbingzine.com/discount/DIRTBAGPODCAST15 Support the podcast on Patreon… Source
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71
5 – Season 4 – Women’s Stories at the Heart of Yosemite Climbing, A Conversation with Lauren DeLaunay Miller
Our second episode from the El Cap Meadow with Lauren DeLaunay Miller. Lauren was a contributor to Volume 12 of The Zine, and she’s the author of Valley of Giants: Stories from Women at the Heart of Yosemite Climbing Check out some more stories/content: www.climbingzine.com Discount link for 15% off any product (except subscriptions) in our online store: https://shop.climbingzine.com/ Source
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70
4 – Season 4 – The GOAT: A Conversation with Beth Rodden
Luke sits down with Beth Rodden in the El Cap Meadow, during the Yosemite Facelift. Beth contributed an essay called Meltdown that’s published in The Climbing Zine, Volume 22. Check out some more stories/content: www.climbingzine.com Discount link for 15% off anything in our online store: https://shop.climbingzine.com/discount/DIRTBAGPODCAST15 Support the podcast on Patreon: https://www. Source
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