Vamos a Jeju!

Ed champions the five-day markets (오일장) as the antidote to touristy Dongmun and Olle markets — fresh produce, fair prices, no crowds, and an authentic window into local Jeju life. Sora explains how these rotating markets date back to the Goryeo dynasty, with vendors traveling between villages on a 5-day cycle (dates ending in 2 and 7, or 3 and 8, etc.). Their favorites: Sehwa (near Haenyeo Museum, statue commemorating anti-Japanese resistance)Seongsan (shooting location for Our Blues)Hallim (famous gimbap lady with a waiting list) Seogwipo (lots of food options).Check dates before you go — they're only open one day then gone for four.TakeawaysFive-day markets (오일장): Rotate on fixed dates (e.g., 2nd, 7th, 12th, 17th, 22nd, 27th of each month)Much more authentic than touristy Dongmun/Olle markets — fresh produce, local vendors, fair pricesVendors are mostly grandmas/grandpas; arrive early (6-7am), leave by 3-4pm regardless of official hoursSehwa Market: Near Haenyeo Museum, statue commemorating anti-Japanese resistance — combine with museum visitHallim Market: Sora's favorite; famous gimbap lady (book first, stroll for an hour, then pick up)Seogwipo Market: Watch grandmas bargaining in Jeju dialect; sit and eat while observing local lifeGoseong Market: Near Seongsan, small, K-drama "Our Blues" filming locationMust-try foods: 빈떡 (bintteok, Jeju-only buckwheat crepes)꽈배기 (kkwabaegi, twisted donuts)호떡 (hotteok)떡볶이 (tteokbokki)순대 (sundae, blood sausage — not ice cream!)뻥튀기 (ppong-twigi, puffed rice discs)짜장면 (jajangmyeon) Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)Review of previous phrases for market use:이거 얼마예요? (igeo eolmayeyo?) — How much is this?이거 주세요 (igeo juseyo) — Please give me this감사합니다 (gamsahamnida) — Thank you맛있어요 (mashisseoyo) — It's delicious안녕히 계세요 (annyeonghi gyeseyo) — Goodbye (to someone staying)Sora's tip: Get straight to the point, but always say 감사합니다, 안녕히 계세요 when leaving.Next StepsFive-day market guide: vamosajeju.com/market14-part DIY Jeju email series: vamosajeju.com/startFollow: @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook

Ed and Sora cover cherry blossom season in Jeju, a great alternative to fighting crowds in Japan. Jeju has its own endemic species — the King Cherry Blossom (왕벚꽃) — discovered in the early 1900s and native only to Jeju. They share five spots: Jeonnongro Street (tunnel effect, murals as consolation prize)Noksan-ro (canola flowers + windmills + cherry blossoms triple threat)Jeju National University campus (local picnic vibe, cheap restaurants nearby)Samseong-hyeol (traditional architecture, paid entry ~4,000 won)Cheonjiyeon Waterfall (open until 10pm for night viewing). Cherry blossoms bloom late March to mid-April but can end abruptly with rain.TakeawaysJeju's King Cherry Blossom (왕벚꽃) is endemic to Jeju — different species from Japan and mainland KoreaSeason: Late March to early-April; can end abruptly with rain/windCanola flowers (yellow): February to April/May — longer season, good consolation prizeJeonnongro Street: Near Jeju City, cherry blossom tunnel effect, 100+ murals, cafes — 3-4 hour visitGasiri Noksan-ro: Southeast, 1 hour from city, triple combo of cherry blossoms + canola flowers + windmills; need rental car; nearby: Folk Village, Snoopy GardenJeju National University: Local picnic spot, cheap restaurants nearby; consolation: Gwaneumsa Temple (Attorney Woo filming location), Crash Landing on You forest sceneSamseong-hyeol: Downtown Jeju near City Hall, traditional architecture, ~4,000 won entry; nearby: Noodle Street (국수거리) for gogi guksuCheonjiyeon Waterfall: Seogwipo, open until 10pm for night cherry blossom viewing, ~2,000 won entryHandy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)벚꽃 (beotkkot) = cherry blossomDescribing beauty:예쁘다 (yeppeuda) — pretty (for flowers, women, things)잘생겼다 (jalsaenggyeotta) — handsome (for men only)멋있다 (meositta) — cool/impressive (for mountains, scenery, men)Next StepsSign up for the 14-part email series at vamosajeju.com/startFollow: @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, FacebookVisit vamosajeju.com for articles, videos, and resources

Ed and Sora kick off the "Hidden Jeju" series with green tea. Despite being coffee people (Sora quotes the Korean phrase 얼죽아 — "I'd freeze to death before giving up iced Americano"), they've grown to appreciate Jeju's tea culture.Jeju's volcanic soil, clean filtered water, and humid climate make it ideal for tea cultivation, now rivaling Japan's famous Uji region.They discuss the difference between green tea (brewed leaves) and matcha (ground whole leaf), and recommend several tea plantations:Osulloc (biggest, but crowded — go early)Seogwi Dawon (small, 80-year-old grandma serves tea, no tour groups)Orteas (reservation-only tea ceremony)Onulun (lava cave underneath, green tea foot bath).TakeawaysJeju tea rivals Japan's Uji region; volcanic soil, filtered water, and humid climate are ideal for cultivation말차 (malcha) = matcha in Korean; 녹차 (nokcha) = green teaMatcha = ground whole leaf (more caffeine, more nutrients); green tea = brewed extractHarvest season: April-June; early harvest (April) is smoother and more expensive; June harvest is strongerOsulloc Tea Museum: Biggest, free entry, beautiful fields — but crowded (tour buses, food court vibe); go early morningSeogwi Dawon: Small, tranquil, 80-year-old grandma owner, 5,000 won entry includes 2 teas, views of Hallasan peak, no large tour groupsOrteas: Reservation-only, Airbnb experience, 4-tea ceremony (green, black, hojicha, matcha) — no random touristsOnulun Green Tea House: Lava cave underneath tea fields, green tea foot bath (~$10)Aewol area: Matcha bingsu, matcha ice cream, croiffle Handy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)마실래요 (mashillaeyo) = Would you like to drink? / I would like to drink뭐 마실래요? (mwo mashillaeyo?) — What would you like to drink?말차 마실래요 (malcha mashillaeyo) — I'd like to drink matcha녹차 마실래요 (nokcha mashillaeyo) — I'd like to drink green teaTea vocabulary:녹차 (nokcha) — green tea말차 (malcha) — matcha홍차 (hongcha) — black tea생강차 (saenggang-cha) — ginger tea유자차 (yuja-cha) — citron tea한라봉차 (hallabong-cha) — Hallabong tangerine teaNext StepsGreen tea blog post: vamosajeju.com/tea14-part DIY Jeju email series: vamosajeju.com/startFollow: @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook

Ed opens with his "criminal history" — killing a rental car in Japan by putting diesel in a gasoline engine. Lesson learned: green pump = diesel, yellow pump = gasoline (same in Korea).This leads into a nuanced discussion of whether DIY travelers should rent a car.The verdict: rent if you have 3-5 days and want flexibility or off-the-beaten-path destinations (west coast, tangerine farms, green tea fields); skip if you're a novice driver, staying only in Jeju City, or have just 2 days.They cover the rental process, GPS language settings, self-service gas stations, parking, and the dreaded 30 km/h school zone speed traps that can rack up 120,000 won ($90) fines.TakeawaysGreen pump = diesel, yellow pump = gasoline (same across Korea and Japan)Rent a car if: 3-5 days, want flexibility, visiting off-the-beaten-path places (west coast, tangerine farms, green tea fields, Sinchang Windmill Coastal Road)Skip the car if: novice driver, staying only in Jeju City, just 2 days, uncomfortable with night driving (no lights on mid-mountain roads, hairpin turns)Need international driver's license; not all companies rent to foreigners — check for English websiteLotte Rent-a-Car and SK Rent-a-Car work with foreigners; price includes collision damage waiver and roadside assistanceAt airport: follow signs to rental car shuttle bus → office → complete paperwork → get carAsk staff to change GPS language to English before leaving the lotSelf-service gas stations (셀프) are slightly cheaper; kiosks often have EnglishParking free outside Jeju City and Seogwipo; paid parking auto-calculated via transponder and billed to rental companySpeed traps everywhere near schools: 30 km/h zones for children, 50 km/h for elderly areasSpeeding ticket = 120,000 won (~$90) per violation — can rack up multiple fines in one driveTickets billed to your credit card through rental company even after you leave KoreaNo freeways on Jeju; Hallasan blocks direct routes — trips take longer than expectedHandy Korean with Sora Ssaem (쌤)Gas station phrases — attendant is called 사장님 (sajangnim)가득요 (gadeugyo) — Fill it up (or just say "full")5만원요 (oman-won-yo) — 50,000 won worth카드 (kadeu) — Card현금 (hyeongeum) — CashNote: 카드 (card) and 가득 (full) sound similar — pronunciation matters!Next StepsSign up for the 14-part email series at vamosajeju.com/startFollow: @vamosajeju on Instagram, TikTok, FacebookVisit vamosajeju.com for articles, videos, and resources