The non-standard14er Podcast

The latest episode we discuss one of the great unresolved 14er questions of our time, ranking just above “Why do I own so many backpacks?”: Can you responsibly climb Castle and Conundrum from the Hot Springs side, or does the loose rock turn the whole endeavor into a sufferfest that can't even be assuaged by a hot springs soak?  To investigate, we’ve brought in two certified 14er finishers who have actually done Castle and Conundrum from the hot springs and survived with most of their joints. Kevin’s trip report from the Conundrum Hot Springs Elijah’s trip report from Cathedral to Conundrum. 

A ceremonial moment for the Non-Standard 14er Podcast — our 58th episode, and we’re using it to ruin your summit résumé. We talk with Eric Gilbertson — engineering professor, global mountaineer, Centennial finisher, and, apparently, the man who just told every Colorado 14er climber: “Actually, that's not the true summit.” Eric’s new measurements reveal that the true summit of Crestone Peak isn’t the one you’ve been posting selfies from — it’s East Crestone, a slightly higher point that’s been quietly judging us for decades. We talk about how 1800s surveyors got it wrong, how modern lasers got it right, and what happens to the sacred 14er list when science shows up with a tape measure.

In this episode we tackle Wetterhorn Peak the non-standard way — from the Ridgway side over Coxcomb Pass — instead of the usual Lake City stroll up Matterhorn Creek. (Well, “stroll” if you consider 3,000 feet of climbing and a Class 3 finale a stroll.) We break down the logistics of each route: the Lake City standard, versus the Owl Creek/Ridgway approach, where you get solitude, wildflowers, and John Wayne whispering “Fill your hand, you son of a…” into the alpine breeze.

How does someone self-power themselves from the lowest point in Colorado to the highest point? Ricardo Pena joins the podcast to teaches us how. (Hint: It requires 350 miles and 23,000 elevation gain.) Ricardo is a mountain guide who has climbed the 14ers, Centennials, the 50 high points, and most of the seven summits. We hear how he came up with the unique climb of Mt. Elbert, stories from Everest Camp 4, and advice on dreaming up mountain adventures with style points.  link to the trip report: Mt. Elbert Trip Report 10/29/2024 | 14ers.com

The 14ers Fall Gathering has been held at Mill Creek Campground outside of Lake City for the past 10 years.  Short-Rope chatted with the organizers of the event: TaylorHolt and Ryguy on the latest episode in which they discussed topics from fitting into the group as a newbie to the unique shuttle routes you can design to bag some awesome 14ers and 13ers in the Lake City area. We also hear about the bear visit that occurred at the 2024 gathering.

Joining the podcast is a guy who has climbed the 14ers and every single 13,000-foot peak in Colorado: Alex Henes. We talk about his recent trip to Denali, what it is like to ski classic 14er ski lines like the Cross Couloir and the Bell Cord, and backpacking trips that involved multiple nights in a tent and multiple passes. Alex has a full description of all the 13ers on his website as well as many other awesome outdoor adventures: www.merelyafleshwound.com. 

What's it like crossing the snow-covered Narrows section on Longs Peak in crampons? David (daway8 on 14ers.com) joins the podcast to talk about climbing Longs Peak in both the winter and the summer. We chat about the Loft route vs. the Keyhole. We also hear some advice for those who may be intimidated by Longs. You can find David's detailed trip report here: Longs Peak Trip Report 01/04/2024 | 14ers.com

Joining the Non-Standard 14er Podcast in this episode is Darin Radatz, Field Operations Manager of the Colorado Trail Foundation to chat about trail adopters, trail crews, re-routing hiking trails, and the challenges of maintaining trail in designated wilderness areas. We even got to learn about using dynamite to clear avalanche debris fields. If you're looking to get involved as a volunteer to do some trail building, listen in!  

Why will the 14ers Democrat, Lincoln, Cameron, Bross, and Lindsey be restricted this summer because of a liability issue? Why was there a bill in the state legislature to modify the Colorado Recreational Use Statute? How did Covid and parking restrictions on popular 14ers changed the hiker use numbers?  Brian Sargeant re-joined the podcast to talk all about it. 

The most remote 14ers in Colorado are up for discussion in this crowded episode of the Non-Standard 14er Podcast: Eolus, N. Eolus, Sunlight and Windom.  We talk about non-standard routes into the Chicago Basin, animals at your camp sites, and tips for riding the train.  We also talk about a rite of passage of the 14er journey: the leap of faith on Sunlight.  

David Witte, 14er finisher and author of the book "World War II at Camp Hale," rejoins the Non-Standard 14er Podcast to chat about the site's latest designation as a National Monument.  We get to learn about the 10th Mountain Division, why they chose the Leadville area, and how they utilized the 14ers in the Sawatch Range for training. 

Short-Rope Stiffler got the trail name “Nugget” while hiking the 486-mile Colorado Trail over 5 weeks this summer. Wangler, another CT hiker whom Stiffler met on the trail, joins the podcast along with the Exiled Michigander.  We talk a lot about the camaraderie of fellow hikers, what it’s like to hike for 35 days straight, trail names, motivation, gear and the prettiest sections of the trail. If you’ve ever contemplated hiking the Colorado Trail, hearing our magical and transformational experiences will hopefully tip you into the “yes let’s try the CT” camp.

What's Wetterhorn like in winter?  What's the winter route on Holy Cross?  Will_E is back on the podcast to talk about hiking the 14ers in calendar winter.  He is two 14ers shy of completing them all as snowflakes---and most of them he's done solo. 

Will_E joins the Non-Standard 14er podcast to talk about his recent solo Winter ascents of the Chicago Basin 14ers---Eolus, N. Eolus, Sunlight and Windom.  We talk about the summer routes vs winter routes, avalanche danger, the Purgatory approach, winter camping, and climbing to the summit block of Sunlight in crampons. 

Snowmass Mountain was the topic of discussion in the latest episode of the Non-Standard 14er Podcast.  Recent 14er Finisher and longtime listener NatDog joins JacerJack, TayJack, Short-Rope and AWOL Pat to talk about his experience on the S-Ridge and the Geneva Lake Side.  We compare the standard route from Snowmass Lake to the S-Ridge in an attempt to influence TayJack’s decision on the best way to tackle Snowmass.

After both spending 43 days connecting all of Colorado’s 14ers in one self-supported wheel-less thru-hike and winning a bout against rhabdomyolysis, Pawel Szafruga joins the Non-Standard 14er Podcast.  His record-breaking journey started at Barr Trail and ended at the bottom of Longs Peak.  We got to learn all about his ultra-lite gear, his route-planning, some unique connecting ridges, road hiking, and his re-supply methods.

With JacerJack's recent completion of the 14ers a few weeks earlier on Handies Peak, a "Finisher" episode was in order. Mike Phelps, host of the Return's Mandatory Podcast, joins us with our discussion about the 14er finisher journey.  Amongst a bunch of laughs and 14er stories, we talk about the "finisher blues," the highs and lows, and life lessons we've learned climbing the 14ers.  

In part two of our conversation with Andrew and Andrea, our discussion starts with their “rock bottom” moment on their Centennial Peak record adventure.  How and why they did the Blanca/Lindsey group the way they did and getting a car battery jump deep in the Ten Mile Range were just a few of the stories on this podcast that the pair enthusiastically tells in tandem.  You’ll understand why the saying “every ridge goes right?!” applies to this duo. 

A few weeks removed from doing Colorado’s highest 100 peaks in under 23 days, the team of Andrew Hamilton and Andrea Sansone join the Non-Standard 14er Podcast to talk all about it.  We learn why they started the record-breaking Centennial Peak challenge on Culebra, got details on their Elk Centennial Traverse, heard about the trouble accessing the Decalibron and got to hear what it’s like running out of food in the San Juans and still needing to summit Eolus, Sunlight, Windom and Jupiter before getting resupplied.  We also got to learn about how the couple motivates each other when one of them is at a mental and physical low point. This is part 1 of our conversation

We always noticed that we feel more calm, more collected and happier after a 3-day backpacking 14er trip, but now we have all the studies/research that explain why.  This is thanks to the recently-released book “The Comfort Crisis” by Michael Easter.  In the book, Michael articulates all the research on “rewilding” and why things like: being in nature, doing hard things, pushing your comfort zone, getting away from phones, and carrying heavy loads is good for a healthy and happy self.  Michael Easter joined the Non-Standard 14er Podcast in the latest episode to talk all about it.  We mention a RAT question (a measure of creativity explained in podcast) during the episode, see if you can figure it out. 

In part 2 of our conversation with the Colorado 14er Speed Record Holder, Andrew Hamilton, we learn all about the logistics and about his support team during this 2015 record breaking attempt. We also get to hear more about doing “Holy Nolans” and got a sneak peak of his plans for the Centennial Record attempt set for late June this year.  We also got to ask Bad Dad what advice he’d give to everyone doing 14ers---the answer might surprise you! 

Colorado 14er Speed Record Holder (9 days, 21 hours and 51 minutes), Andrew Hamilton joins the Non-Standard 14er Podcast.  We got to learn about the evolution of the speed record, his 1999 attempt, his interactions with previous record-holders and the logistics of climbing all the 14ers in under 10 days in July 2015.  Andrew or “Bad Dad” also holds the Winter record for Nolans 14 and has set summer records for the Summer Nolans 14 and “Holy Nolans” (adding Mount of the Holy Cross). In 2018, he was the first person to climb all the 14ers in a calendar winter.  This is part 1 of 2 of our conversation with Andrew.

Mountain runner, Centennial Peak Finisher, Colorado Trail Through-Hiker, and High School Cross Country Coach, Sean O’Day joins the Non-Standard 14er podcast to discuss ultra running and his 25-mile loop around Mt. Yale.  You might know Sean better by his 14er handle: Doggler.  Mt. Yale was the center of our discussion and the various ways (Denny Creek, Avalanche Gulch, Kroenke Lake approaches) up it, but we covered all sorts of topics from the mental aspects of pushing yourself to do crazy things like a 100-mile race or lugging a 72-pound keg up Mt. Bierstadt.  You can find Sean's trip report here: http://seanoday.blogspot.com/2012/05/tour-de-yale.html

U.S. National Forest Ranger, Katy Nelson, joins the Non-Standard 14er Podcast in this episode to talk about the permit system at Conundrum Hot Springs, Leave No Trace, bear bags, overcrowding, and life in the White River National Forest.  Katy is the Wilderness and Trails Specialist in the Aspen-Sopris Ranger District of Colorado.  We got to learn about the data of 3 years of Conundrum Hot Springs permits and hear about the Wilderness Act which requires the mandate to provide “outstanding opportunities for solitude.”

The author, Jeri Norgren, and the photographer, John Fielder, of the new book entitled “Colorado's Highest: The History of Naming the 14,000-Foot Peaks” joined the Non-Standard 14er Podcast.  We learned about the Hayden Surveys of Colorado in the 1870s, discussed the naming history of some 14ers, debated the renaming of some peaks, got some photography tips, and got to learn what prompted Jeri to begin her research and how she teamed up with John.   We also were delighted to hear some captivating stories from the two that have spent decades exploring, researching, and photographing the Colorado 14ers. 

Justin Ibarra----guide, avalanche educator and founder of Colorado Snowboard Guides, joins the podcast to discuss avalanche safety.  We pick his brain about avalanche classes, beacons, airbags and skiing 14ers.  We also get tips about educating yourself if you’re getting into backcountry skiing, and we get to hear stories about life as a winter guide in Summit County. 

The TornadoMan and Short-Rope chatted with Matt Payne (climber, Centennial Peak Finisher, photographer and podcaster) in the latest episode.  We talk about the pros/cons of a website Matt used to run that detailed and discussed Colorado mountain accidents.  We also got to learn a bunch of mountain photography tips from Matt and hear stories about capturing those rare mountain shots when the light is just perfect.  You can find his website at https://www.mattpaynephotography.com/

What are creative backpacking trip plans that link 14er Peaks and Centennial Peaks? That was the question of this episode of the Non-Standard 14er Podcast as Tornadoman, Walk-Mode Patrick, JacerJack and Short-Rope competed with Ellen as the judge to find out who could design the best trip.  How do you get Hagerman and Snowmass?  Can you get Castle and also soak in Conundrum Hot Springs?  What’s the best way to get Gladstone?  How about the Jones Group and Handies?  Do you do Columbia Point from South Colony or Willow Lake?  All questions discussed in this competitive episode.

Three CO-14er-Finishers join the podcast to talk about their successful summits of Mount Rainier (14,410’): MonGoose, Exiled_Michigander, and Walk Mode Patrick. The conversation was centered around comparing Colorado 14ers to Washington’s Rainier and offering a Colorado climber’s perspective.  We learned about Camp Muir, what it’s like to be in a roped team, and the rope skills and preparation recommended before tackling a glaciated peak like Rainier.  You can find MonGoose’s detailed and entertaining story in his Rainier trip report here: https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=15155

In anticipation of the Winter Welcomer, we sat down with Britt Jones who is one of the organizers of the annual hike of Quandary Peak.  The event was started by Steve Gladbach (sgladbach) and Jim DiNapoli (dancesatmoonrise), who both had a desire to help others learn to hike safely in winter conditions and have fun. Britt has climbed all the 14ers, the Centennials, and the 50 state high points. We got to learn all about the Winter Welcomer event and the selfless nature of the climbers who inspired it. 

The 4 Great Traverses between Colorado 14ers (El Diente/Mt. Wilson, Crestones, Maroon Bells, Little Bear/Blanca) was the topic of discussion on this episode of the Non-Standard 14er Podcast.  Josh Collman re-joins the podcast to chat with Short-Rope, JacerJack and Ellen, who is our latest guest to the podcast.  Ellen climbed the 4 great traverses this summer along with 46 different 14ers.  You should check out her well-researched and detailed trip report of the Crestone Traverse and Blanca/Little Bear Traverse here: https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=20681

We sat down with Seth Linden whom many might know from the popular Facebook group “Seth’s Weather Report” in the latest Non-Standard 14er episode. We learned how a passion for tracking and skiing powder can turn into a career, what exactly you study in meteorology school, and how you apply that to enjoying Colorado’s high country.  Seth also taught us the difference between El Nino and La Nina and their effect on snow in Colorado; what to look for during thunderstorms in the mountains,  and why Mt. Eolus always has storm clouds above its summit among other meteorologist-related topics and laughs.

A full crowd showed up for this podcast to tell stories of their experience climbing arguably the hardest 14er in Colorado:  Capitol Peak.  Johan joins the podcast for the first time with Short-Rope Stiffler, the Exiled_Michigander, Walk-Mode/Colorado Trail Patrick, JacerJack and TayJack.  We hear stories of loose rock falls, dodging hail on the descent from K2, and troubles with bear canisters.  We also discuss non-standard approaches of Capitol and debate whether it is the toughest 14er.  We had a lot of fun re-telling the stories of Capitol we’ve told many times before.   

Joining the podcast in this episode are David, Mark and Dennis Witte—a father and two son trio---who wrote Surviving the Colorado 14ers: A Family’s Journey from Quandary to Capitol.  The book details their 24-year journey climbing Colorado’s highest peaks. We got to learn about what the 14ers were like in the 1990's compared to today and what it's like planning out 14er trips when you don't live in Colorado among other topics and laughs.  You can find their book at: https://www.amazon.com/Surviving-Colorado-14ers-Familys-Quandary/dp/1979799326/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=surviving+the+14ers&qid=1597260738&sr=8-1

We talk with Mark Scott-Nash, author of Colorado 14er Disasters in the latest episode.  Mark is the author of four books, Forty Demons: One Man’s Astonishing Vision Quest to Save the World, The Insolent Guide to Northern Colorado Mountains, Colorado Fourteener Disasters: Victims of the Game, Playing for Real: Stories from Rocky Mountain Rescue.  We got to chat about what you don’t hear in the news when reading about Search and Rescue operations in Colorado and a few of the stories detailed in his books. 

Short-Rope Stiffler and the Exiled_Michigander welcome Josh Collman to the podcast to talk about his near-death and life-changing fall from Crestone Needle in August 2017.  We got to hear all about the table-sized ledge that he landed on and the story of his rescue from the 14er on a Blackhawk Helicopter.  We also learned how he transformed his mind set from getting his summit-fever-fix to really just enjoying the ride. Hear all about Josh’s thankfulness and admiration for his climbing partner and the SAR team that saved his life.   Josh’s book “The Needle; Finding Heroes” came out in May 2020.  You can find it here: https://www.amazon.com/Needle-Josh-Collman/dp/B088T2ZZ9M/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=the+needle+true+heroes&qid=1592933063&sr=8-2

Mark Obmascik, a Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist and bestselling author who wrote Halfway to Heaven: My White-Knuckled—And Knuckleheaded—Quest for the Rocky Mountain High, joined the Non-Standard 14er Podcast to chat about how, as a forty-four-year-old father of three, he climbed all of Colorado’s 14ers in a single summer. We got to ask Mark all about his inspiration on writing the book and the adventures he had on the mountains and with the people he met climbing.  The best advice we got from Mark maybe his instructions on how to eat an elephant…hear all about it in our latest episode.

In another stay-at-home podcast, Short-Rope, JacerJack and CTP chat with blogger and 14er-climber Alex Derr whose blog The Next Summit can be found at www.alexmderr.com.  We debate a number of the topics discussed on the blog from the best first overnight 14er routes to the best non-standard routes. We also learn how Alex got into the 14ers and what inspired him to create the blog. 

What Colorado mountain passes are referenced in South Park episodes?  Where does Rocky Mountain National Park rank among the most visited national parks?  What 14ers are on U.S. coins?  What trailheads match with which 14ers?  These are among the questions asked as the RyGuy returns to defend his Non-Standard 14er Podcast Trivia Title against the Exiled_Michigander, TayJack and JacerJack. 

What’s the best way to climb Little Bear Peak---the hourglass route or the SW Ridge?  That’s the topic for discussion in this episode of the Non-Standard 14er Podcast.  JacerJack and Short-Rope are on Team Hourglass.  TornadoMan joins the podcast with Colorado Trail Patrick to represent Team-Southwest-Ridge. TayJack is the moderator.  We talk about rock fall, camping at Lake Como, and day-hiking one of the most difficult 14ers. You can find TornadoMan’s detailed trip report on the Southwest Ridge here https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=18943. 

The logistics of climbing the Wilson Group 14ers (Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, and El Diente Peak) was the topic of discussion as Ryguy and Colorado Trail Patrick re-join Short-Rope on this episode of the Non-Standard 14er Podcast.  We debate the pros and cons of Kilpacker Basin compared to the Navejo Basin or the Rock of Ages approaches.  We talk about the crux moves on each peak.  We also discuss the most efficient way to bag all three peaks in a day (if you had to). 

Short Rope invited Colorado Trail Patrick and Ryguy to the podcast for the first edition of the Non-Standard 14er Podcast trivia episode featuring 14er and Colorado trivia.  The format includes 5 rounds with 3 questions per round, a midpoint question and a final question in which the contestants can wager the points they’ve earned throughout the game.  We cover topics from Woodrow Wilson to Alec Baldwin and from San Juan 14ers to Gaelic sayings. 

Thru-Hiker Cloud returns to the Non-Standard 14er Podcast for part 2 of our conversation about hiking the Pacific Crest Trail (2,650 miles) and the Continental Divide Trail (3,100 miles). We learn all about trail names, trail magic, trail angels, trail music, and trail etiquette.  Part 2 has more goofiness and even more acronyms than part 1. 

Short-Rope, JacerJack, TayJack, and Colorado Trail Patrick welcomed thru-hiker, conservationist, mountaineer, outdoor enthusiast, and blogger Jenny Gaeng to the Non-Standard 14er Podcast.  Better known by her trail name “Cloud,”  Jenny joined the podcast just 9 days after she finished hiking all 2,650 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) and three years after she hiked all 3,100 miles of the Continental Divide Trail in 2016.  We chatted about such topics as hiking through the grizzly bears sections of the Continental Divide trail, hiking gear that you wouldn’t think you needed when thru-hiking, and how to get enough calories when you’re hiking 5 to 6 days between re-stocks from Mexico to Canada. Find Cloud's blog here: https://adventuresofcloud.com/  We had so much to talk about that we broke it into two episodes.  Here’s the first…

Short-Rope and Kunckel drove up to Kremmling Colorado to sit down with Shuei Kato to hear the story of how he got turned around on the Summit of Missouri Mountain and got lost in the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness Area for three nights in October 2017.  We chat all about what went wrong, what gear he had with him that allowed him to survive three nights alone, what he learned from his experience and what wisdom he shares with others. 

TayJack, JacerJack and Short-Rope invite Brian Sargeant to the Non-Standard 14er Podcast to chat about his role working with the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative, a non-profit out of Golden that protects and preserves our 14,000 foot peaks.  We learn about CFI’s thermal counters that keep a tally of hiker counts.  We get an early glimpse of the updated 14er report card that grades each 14er on the amount and difficulty of trail restoration needed. We talk about their current work on Columbia’s standard trail.  And we learn about CFI’s projects, funding, staff, mission and history.

Short-Rope, TayJack, and JacerJack welcome our first canine to the Non-Standard 14er Podcast.  We sit down with recent 14er finisher Elle and her husky Loki, who both climbed all of Colorado's 14ers and recently finished on Capitol Peak.  We talk about Loki's special training and how Elle and Loki work as a climbing team. We also hear some answers to popular questions that the 14er community instantly asks when they hear a dog did all the 14ers including: how they crossed Capitol's knife edge, how they tackled Little Bear's hourglass and what about the class 4 chimney move on North Maroon Peak? 

RyGuy returns to the Non-Standard 14er Podcast to talk about his experience in a search and rescue mission on Crestone Peak. RyGuy reflects upon what went wrong, what he learned and what others should avoid when climbing snow-covered gullies like Crestone Peak’s Red Gully.  We discuss emergency beacons, the difference between north and south facing snow conditions, and what it’s like to be picked up off a mountain by a Blackhawk Helicopter.  We also chat about best practices if you ever need to call Search and Rescue.

TayJack, JacerJack and Short-Rope welcome our first Centennial Finisher to the podcast: RyGuy.  With an extensive alpine resume (RyGuy has climbed 34 of the 14ers in Winter, summited over 150 of the 13ers, and is currently an administer of the 14ers.com Facebook page), we had a lot to talk about.  The topics ranged from Winter camping/climbing to summit signs to the 14er.com social gatherings. We also learn how many of the highest 100 peaks in Colorado require rope climbing and just how different the Colorado 13ers are compared to the 14ers.   

While car camping outside the gate of the Cielo Vista Ranch, TayJack, JacerJack and Short-Rope welcome Pikabark, a new friend that was among the 20 individuals who had reservations to climb Culebra Peak the next day.  We learn about our new friend’s weight-loss feat via the 14ers, we discuss JacerJack’s successful skiing of the Emperor Couloir on Torreys Peak this Spring (the daunting gulley visible from I70) and we learn all sorts about snow conditions, avalanche risk, and avalanche-condition report reading in the Nonstandard 14er Podcast’s Trailhead Talk episode.