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The rope fixers got the fixed line to the South Col on Friday, May 8, 2026 and are on track to reach the summit by the 13th or earlier. As predicted, some Nepali teams have already positioned members at the Col to attempt the summit as the lines get there. Nepal has issued 492 Everest permits, surpassing the 2024 record of 479. A Sherpa died in the Icefall. There is climbing on the Tibet side of Everest.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/05/10/everest-2026-may-10-weekend-update-ropes-to-south-col-everest-death/

The route is in to Camp 2, thus allowing Sherpa rope fixers to begin fixing it to the summit, starting with Camp 3. Sherpas have established Camp 2, also known as Advanced Base Camp, with tents and other supplies. They will begin stocking it with an oxygen bottle soon. Teams have started their acclimatization rotations to Camps 1 and 2. The ropes are expected to reach the summit around May 14th. Everest permits are nearing 2024's record of 479, generating nearly $7 million in permit revenue alone.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything

We may finally see how climate change has impacted climbing Mt. Everest: melting seracs threatening climbers, and helicopters used to bypass the icefall. First, let's clarify that the Icefeall is not blocked and is passable. The issue is a large, unstable hanging serac that, if it fell onto the Icefall with climbers there, dozens could be killed, making it much worse than the 16 taken in a similar event in 2014. There are conflicting reports about a route to Camp 1. But others say it's still too dangerous because of rockfall, and the ice serac in question remains.There are 410 Everest permits issued, so with 1.5 Sherpas per permit and 0.2 cooks, there are around 1,200 people at EBC, by my estimation. I've seen other reports with three times that many. #everest2026 Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/04/27/everest-2026-april-27-weekend-update-icefall-route-in/

After waiting as long as two weeks, climbers on Annapurna, Makalu and Dhaulagiri finally stood on the summit. But Everest lags as the route from EBC to the Western Cwm is stalled. EverestER is already busy, having seen over 100 patients thus far this season. It's over for Ryan Mitchell. #everest2026Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/04/19/everest-2026-april-19-weekend-update-8000er-summits-icefall-woes

Teahouses are buzzing, the trails are full, the yaks are loaded–as are the porters bearing unbelievable loads. Yes, the Khumbu is alive. But the weather is poor for some of the 8000ers.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/04/12/everest-2026-april-12-weekend-update-the-khumbu-is-alive/

In this weekend update, I cover a lot of ground, primarily around misinformation regarding "Everest Guides Poisoning Clients" - FALSE. The actual issue is a large-scale insurance fraud scheme targeting trekkers (not climbers) across Nepal's trekking circuits, involving fake helicopter evacuations and hospital stays. Additionally, Global Rescue will not provide longline rescues above Camp 2 this year due to a lack of qualified pilots, which will fundamentally change expectations for climber safety.  We also look at heavy snow delaying summits on Annapurna and, of course, a status update on Ryan Mitchell.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/04/05/everest-2026-april-5-weekend-update-debunking-poison-rumors/

After recording a powerful podcast with Lainie Holcomb and Dr. Tammy Awtry of the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund, I was reminded that while meaningful progress has been made in understanding, detecting, and slowing Alzheimer’s, we are still far from a cure. This mission is deeply personal—sparked by my mother’s diagnosis in 2006—and has driven nearly two decades of climbing and fundraising to support research where every dollar goes directly to finding solutions.Today, breakthroughs like early detection, new treatments, and innovative research models offer real hope, but continued funding is critical; that’s why I’m asking for your help now, and I’ll match the first 50 donations to amplify our collective impact in the fight to end this disease. #alzheimer's #CurealzClimb On!AlanMemories are everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/03/31/podcast-memories-are-everything-why-alzheimers-research-needs-us-now/

Everest Base Camp is taking shape as two more of Nepal's eight 8,000-meter peaks see climbers arriving at their bases. This year, there are several interesting climbers to watch beyond the hundreds of aspirants on commercial teams. Remember, China closed climbing on its three 8,000ers—Everest, Cho Oyu, and Shishapangma—throughout all of spring.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/03/26/everest-2026-climbers-to-watch-this-season/

The backbone of every Everest season on the Nepali side are the Icefall Doctors, a team of highly skilled Sherpas who establish the climbing route and set the thin nylon safety rope from Base Camp to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm.Today, they left Namache Bazaar for EBC, where they will receive refresher training under the watchful eyes of the Kuhumbu Climbing Center teachers. Next, they will use drones to scout the route and, around March 16, begin the laborious task of setting ice screws, pickets, v-threads, and other techniques to attach the rope to the moving ice. And of course, there are the ladders that are hauled to deep, open crevasses, thus providing passage for the thousands of trips through the Icefall this season. In the Podcast, I introduce the season and review some of my background posts on costs, total summits and deaths, route figures, and more. #everest2026 Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/03/01/everest-2026-icefall-doctors-launched/

In this podcast, I speak with Scott Parazynski, who is about as unique an individual as you will find these days. Consider a small fraction of his achievements:Five-time space shuttle astronaut, seven spacewalks, and a former NASA researcher.Spent over 8 weeks in space with more than 47 hours outside on spacewalks, and traveled over 23 million miles in orbit. Attempted Everest in May 2008, but was forced to turn back before the summit due to a ruptured disc while at Camp 3Served as team physician for the Discovery Channel's Beyond the Limit series for IMGMay 20, 2009, at 4:00 am, he successfully summited EverestVisited the wreck of the TitanicConducted a scientific dive in the summit caldera lake of the 19,700-foot Masaya volcano, the world’s highest lakeLife-long SCUBA diver and accomplished mountaineerCommercial, instrument, multiengine and seaplane-rated pilot with over 2,500 flight hoursI hope you enjoy the episode and perhaps consider reading his book, The Sky Below: A True Story of Summits, Space, and Speed.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/02/06/podcast-with-scott-parazynski/

Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, is preparing to climb two 8000-meter peaks, without supplemental oxygen, with his friend and professional mountain guide, Justin Sackett. In this podcast, we discuss the expedition, its risks, decision-making and emotions. As usual, Ryan will film the climbs and post on his very popular YouTube channel.  We also discussed the upcoming Everest season and some potential policy changes, especially on the Nepal side.https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/01/23/podcast-with-ryan-mitchell-justin-sackett-plans-for-two-8000ers-no-os/

As we close out 2025, I caught up with Garrett Maddison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, for a rare moment while he was home in the Seattle area. Garrett summited all of the Seven Summits (Messner List) in 2025, plus had some interesting times on Cho Oyu, watched one of his teams struggle, like the others, on K2, and is actively guiding on Vinson. We discussed all this, including what to expect for Everest in 2026, with the more expensive permit fees, new requirements for Everest applicants from China, and proposals from Nepal.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/12/23/7-summits-in-one-year-podcast-with-garrett-madison/

Mid-December is a quiet time in the mountaineering world, so I thought it would be nice to pick meteorologist Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solution’s brain on the upcoming winter season for mountaineering across the globe. And, of course, we have to touch on Everest.The 8000er season is chiefly over, and the true winter climbs have yet to begin in earnest. But soon, we will have activity in Antarctica with adventurers attempting full crossings, climbers going for Vinson, Tyree and maybe an unclimbed peak or two. Then, as we move towards the new year, the slopes of Acocnagua become busy with a new group of aspirants wanting to test themselves at 7,000 meters, perhaps for training for an upcoming Everest climb.In this Podcast, I briefly review the 2025 year in mountaineering and share my thoughts on a “Climber’s Holiday Season." #everest2026Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/12/12/2025-wrap-up-talking-weather-with-chris-tomer/

New Zealander Peter Hillary needs no introduction, as his last name recalls the historic achievement of his father, Sir Edmund Hillary, who, along with Tenzing Norgay, first summited Mt. Everest on May 29, 1953.In this podcast, we discuss Peter's relationship with his father, his upbringing, adventures, and the future of mountaineering. We also discuss the Himalayan Trust, a foundation started by his father in 1961 that continues today, building schools, infrastructure, roads, and more throughout Nepal, a country close to Peter's heart.https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/10/10/podcast-with-peter-hillary/

Australians Bianca Adler, 17, and her dad, Paul Adler, 50, are back in Melbourne, Australia, after their recent Everest attempt. They were thwarted by strong winds and illness, but made a valuable attempt. Bianca's social posts have gone viral as she struggled to breathe upon returning to Camp 4 at the South Col after reaching 8163 meters on the 8848-meter peak. She climbed with Rinji Sherpa of the Makalu region.This podcast discusses Paul's Everest attempt and summit, Bianca's Ama Dablam attempt and summit and of course, Everest with the risks, decision-making, and emotions. I think you'll enjoy meeting this young lady, who, by the way, has become friends with Ryan Mitchell. The two gave me a lot of hope for the sport I love, as I saw two very mature young people embracing mountaineering. #everest2025 Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/10/03/everest-2025-podcast-with-bianaca-and-paul-adler/

Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, is back from his recent K2 attempt. They were thwarted by a deadly rockfall that killed two other people on other teams.They climbed to Camp 1 to see the conditions firsthand and abandoned their expedition. However, they climbed a previously unclimbed peak near K2 for acclimatization, so there was some solid mountaineering this year for the Madison Mountaineering team led by Terray Sylvester. They also collected 600 pounds of trash, primarily from the K2 Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp, which were exposed to unexpectedly dry and warm conditions.In this podcast, we discuss the expedition, its risks, decision-making and emotions. Ryan is currently dropping a new YouTube episode almost daily on his channel, which provides his followers with a unique inside look at what K2 offered in 2025.  #k2025 https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/09/08/k2-podcast-with-ryan-mitchell-after-k2/

The summer 2025 Karakorum for the 8000-meter peaks is over, and what a season it was. There were summits, deaths, disappointments and survivals. Was it a “successful” season? I’ll leave that judgment to others—but honestly, it often felt like safety took a back seat to ambition. Summits:K2- 42 with two deathsBroad Peak: 0Gashbrum II: 0Gasherbrum I: 17Nanga Parbat: 25 with one death#K2025Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/08/24/k2-2025-coverage-wrap-a-rocky-season/

With teams still hoping to summit, popular American climber Ryan Mitchell, Phurba Sherpa, Terray Sylvester, ⁠Madison Mountaineering⁠ lead guide, and several other Sherpas ended their expedition after climbing to Camp 1. Terray felt the rockfall was too dangerous to continue despite several teams already higher on the mountain, hoping to summit on August 11.Only a few teams remain on the mountain, each with a few climbers, including a few independent ones foregoing supplemental oxygen and HAP/Sherpa support like Czech climbers ⁠Jan Polacek⁠, ⁠Lenka Polackova⁠, and Pakistani ⁠Sohail Sakhi⁠. French climber ⁠Charles Page⁠, guided by Vinajak Malla, was last reported at 7661 m/25,134 feet, higher than the elevation of traditional Camp 4 of 25,080'/7600m as of August 11, 2:00 a.m. local time per his ⁠Inreach⁠.Regardless of classification, they must work together to set the ropes, break the trail, and reach the summit. Then, they must descend, which might be one of the riskiest in recent history. Remaining teams include Seven Summits Treks, Imagine Nepal, and Elete Expeditions. As of yesterday, the fixed ropes are 200 meters above Camp 3, around 7400 meters or 24,300 feet. With Page's report, they are obviously higher now as they are on their summit push. Teams expect to summit on Monday, August 11.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything⁠https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/08/10/k2-2025-coverage-risk-taking-case-study/⁠

After almost five weeks, a weather window long enough for a summit attempt on K2 has emerged. Most teams and many individuals have left, but an estimated (very rough guess) that 20-30 total people, split equally between commercial and independent climbers, remain for the summit push starting today, August 5th, 2025. #k2025https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/08/05/k2-2025-coverage-k2-summit-push-on/

Signs of trouble on K2 and Broad Peak. First is the weather. There have been more high winds and heavy snowfall, preventing the establishment of Camp 3 on K2 and keeping the Broad Peak climbers below Camp 3. And the other concern is the lack of cooperation among the teams, as noted by Polish climber, Lukas Supergan: "... This could be achieved by a large, combined team from agencies and independent climbers working together. However, such cooperation is completely lacking. Leaders keep their plans secret."Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/25/k2-2025-coverage-weather-stalls-plans-or-not/

Summits! We have summits in the Karakoram on Sunday, July 20, 2025. Also, climbers are acclimatizing at Camp 3 on BP, and most teams seem focused on an upcoming summit window around the end of July. Conditions are finally improving in the Karakoram after days of high temperatures, winds, and even snow and rain. One issue is that crows are eating food left at high camps! Tragically, one climber died last week on K2 from rockfall. Also, improvements are made for locals and visitors trekking the Baltoro Glacier. #K2025Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/20/k2-2025-coverage-death-summits-and-progress/

Teams are finally progressing across the four northernmost 8000-meter peaks: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I, and Gasherbrum II. Multiple teams report reaching as high as Camp 3 on these peaks, thus setting an optimistic tone for summits this season. Although rockfall remains a clear and present danger, leaders feel more comfortable after recent snowfalls. However, climbers still need to be thoughtful and cautious about avalanche danger, as shown by the rescue of a stranded and injured Polish climber. Today, I discussed the conditions with Garrett Madison, the founder of Madison Mountaineering, who has a team on K2 for a summit but also on a mountain trash clean-up mission.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/14/k2-2025-coverage-climbing-in-peril/

The Karakorum's drought continues due to the low snowfall from Spring combined with warmer-than-normal temperatures; thus, rockfall is a real danger on K2, Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat and the Gasherbrums. Ryan Mitchell and his K2 team are acclimatizing on a nearby unclimbed peak, hoping for snow in the next two weeks. They're doing well, but patience will be tested this year on all the mountains. I discussed the hot weather with meteorologist Chris Tomer.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/08/k2-2025-coverage-dry-hot-and-rockfall/

Teams are arriving at K2 Base Camp, but communications are limited, so not much information is coming out. We know that conditions are harsh, with high temperatures and low snow in the lower mountains. Given the absence of snow, climbers are concerned about rockfall this year.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/03/k2-2025-coverage-teams-at-bc-and-trekking-first-summits-2/

NOTE: This Podcast has extensive pictures so best viewed instead of listened to.Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, has gained considerable recognition thanks to his impressive video documentation of his 2024 summit of Mt. Everest with Madison Mountaineering. Exciting news! He’s all set to leave for K2 on Saturday, June 21, 2025.You may recall that in December 2022, Ryan contacted me for guidance and coaching on how to climb Everest in the Spring of 2023. He was new to climbing, so I advised him that while many companies would happily take his money to get him to Everest, the better choice would be to wait at least a year to develop the skills and experience needed for a safe attempt on the world's highest peak. He took my advice to heart, worked hard, honed his skills on the volcanoes of Ecuador, then Denali, and Aconcagua, and ultimately performed magnificently on Everest.Since then, he has moved from Massachusetts to the Seattle, Washington area, fully embracing the sport of mountaineering. He continues his success with a new YouTube channel where he shares his climbing adventures and prepares for his ascent of K2.In this podcast, we discuss his training, why he chose K2, and walk through the stages of his exciting climb, using pictures from my 2014 climb as well as his training adventures. Also, I've added at the end my video documentary of my 2014 summit climb.I know you will enjoy this.You can follow him on his social media:Ryan Mitchell YouTubeRyanMitchellUnfiltered InstagramWebsiteClimb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/06/17/k2-podcast-with-ryan-mitchell-preparing-for-k2/?preview=true

The 2025 Everest expedition has come to a close, marked by strong winds, drones, challenging climbing, and innovative strategies. Along the way were reports of frostbite and helicopter evacuations, but many of these incidents went unreported to avoid negative publicity.Not all was bad, and one climber stood out: a German alpinist, Anja Blacha, made a near-solo ascent (she summited the same day as 30 other people), unsupported, setting a record. This is something we often overlook in our fast-paced social media world. The overall summit count for both sides of Everest in 2025 is estimated to be around 846, including support climbers such as Sherpas, Tibetans, and Guides. The Himalayan Database will publish what I consider to be the definitive results later this year. #everest2025https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/06/11/everest-2025-season-summary/Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything

What a week on Everest! We had both regular and unique summits, some of which may have unintended consequences for years to come. On the other 8000ers, the season came to a close with a few inspiring stories. The action is not over quite yet, even with an impending storm threatening to close the Icefall early next week, but allowing the remaining Tibetan side teams to summit a deserted peak. A narrative on descending from the summit of Everest and returning home with lessons from the mountain. #everest2025https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/25/everest-2025-weekend-update-may-25-season-ending-soon/

Blustery conditions stalled most summit attempts last week, but a few teams managed to reach the summit, bringing the total number of Everest summits to over 200. May 14th,  15th and 18th, 2025, were big days on Everest despite the strong winds on the first two. And today, May 18th, we saw more Nepal side summits and the first commercial team summit on the Tibetan side.Hundreds more are staged for their attempts, spread from Camp 2 to the South Col, or Camp 4. Meteorologists have told leaders to expect a decent weather window starting any day now. At least two climbers have died on the Nepal side, with more rescues or sick, abandoning their bids. In other words, a regular season on Mt. Everest. A narrative of going to the "Top of the World."Estimates vary, but at least 129 people summited Everest today, May 18th, on both the Nepalese and Tibetan sides, bringing the total to around 275, with 119 members supported by 156 Sherpas or support climbers. This results in a client-to-support ratio of 1:3. With an estimated 446 foreign permits issued by Nepal and a dropout rate of approximately 40%, there are likely around 150 clients or members remaining to summit on the Nepal side. Many are already staged for their attempts, spread from Camp 2 to the South Col, or Camp 4.Each weekend during the season, I'll post a "Weekend Update" summarizing the main stories from the past week, what to expect next, and more posts whenever there is meaningful news. #everest2025Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/18/everest-2025-weekend-update-may-18-summit-summits-and-preventable-deaths/

Summit, Forest, summit! With decent weather, climbers took full advantage of summiting four of the 8000ers, including the first Everest summits, with more teams on their way this season. One person attempted to set a speed record on Everest. The fixed line is to the summit of Lhotse and the Nepalese and Tibetan sides of Everest. 8K Expeditions did an excellent job of being dedicated and patient with high winds. With 456 Everest and 107 Lhotse permits issued, look for summits daily as the winds allow. And, a narrative on climbing to the South Col and preparing for the summit bid.Each weekend during the season, I post a "Weekend Update" summarizing the main stories from the past week, what to expect next, and more posts whenever there is meaningful news.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/11/everest-2025-weekend-update-may-11-summit-summits-and-more-summits/

The last few days of low winds have allowed the rope fixing teams to make excellent progress. The rope team from 8K Expeditions summited Lhotse this afternoon, May 8, 2025, marking the first summits of the year. A separate team from 8K will summit Everest tomorrow. This opens the season to the plethora of climbers already staged at Camp 2, just waiting for this event. The Tibetan rope-fixing team has reached 7900 meters or higher on the Tibetan side. I anticipate they will summit over the weekend.Also, a narrative on the anticipation of summiting. #everest2025 Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/08/everest-2025-lhotse-summits-everest-soon-anticipation/

Poor weather is delaying getting the fixed ropes to Everest's summit on both sides but is looking better. The Nepal side Everest permits have reached 444, with more permits issued each day. EverestER has seen over 400 patients thus far. Some teams have completed their acclimatization protocols while others haven't started. An interesting season to be sure! Also a narrative on climbing From Camp 1 in the Western Cwm to Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face.Each weekend during the season, I'll post a "Weekend Update" summarizing the main stories from the past week what to expect next, and more posts whenever there is meaningful news. #everest2025https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/04/everest-2025-weekend-update-may-4-waiting-on-the-ropes/Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything

Drone crash, Icefall collapse, ropes to Camp 3, and climbers tag Camp 2. 374 Everest permits thus far, but only 48 on the Tibet side. It's been a busy week on Everest.https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/27/everest-2025-weekend-update-april-27-on-the-move/

The 2025 season is well underway, and more teams arrive at Everest Base Camp each day. The Icefall Doctors have the fixed line to Camp 2, where 8K Expeditions will take over and fix the route to the summit. I expect them by early May. It's a tough job, to be sure. Also, a short narrative on the puja ceremony. This may go down as the season of stunts, pleasing those who have called Everest a circus for years. Game on! #everest2025 Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/20/everest-2025-weekend-update-april-13-basecamp-sprawl/

As I previously reported, two Sherpas lost their lives when struck by an avalanche on the 8000er, Annapurna, on April 7, 2025. Ngima Tashi and Rima Rinje were swept into a deep crevasse between Camps 2 and 3. Four days later, Sherpas located their bodies using RECCO reflective technology after several helicopter searches proved unsuccessful. Retrieval was not attempted due to the bodies being inside a deep crevasse and the ongoing avalanche danger. In the Podcast are multiple still images from his climb, plus a video of the actual avalanche taken by John.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything#annapurna2025 #everest2025

It was a tough week in the Himalayas. We saw summits on two 8000ers, two Sherpas died, and the Icefall Doctors finally got the route to Camp 1 through the Khumbu Icefall. Also, it feels like the early predictions of a record and crowded Nepal side are coming true, with more permits issued at this time than last year. #everest2025 Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/13/everest-2025-weekend-update-april-13-icefall-in-summits-and-deaths/

Despite ominous weather and route conditions, various media reports have at least four climbers summiting Annapurna on Sunday, April 6, 2025. Early reports of disturbing conditions on Annapurna seem to be mirrored on Everest. The Kumbu is buzzing with activity, and the Icefall Doctors are struggling again this year to get the route through the Icefall. In other words, busy as usual in the mid-2020s. #everest2025https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/06/everest-2025-weekend-update-april-6-1st-8000er-summits/

Early data suggest Everest will see a record year, primarily driven by Chinese and Indian clients. I won’t be surprised to see over 1,000 total summits from both sides. The Icefall Doctors are already at work. Sherpas are setting up Base Camp, which is starting to look like a small city.The Himalayan winter was warm and dry, causing the snow line on Everest to move higher and increasing the chances of rockfall. Climbers need to be very aware and stay safe this season. #everest2025

This is the Weekend Update for Everest 2025. The season is about to get started in earnest. Climber after climber and team after team are leaving home. In many cases, scores of Sherpas are on their way to Everest Base Camp to begin the arduous process of establishing a home for over 1,000 people this spring season. The Icefall Doctors are already at work. #everest2025

Deaths on Carstensz Pyramid, one of the Seven Summits, are rare, but two women tragically lost their lives on March 1 while descending during a storm. The 4,884-meter (16,024-foot) peak poses challenging logistics and is the most technical of the seven, requiring basic rock climbing skills for primarily 5th-class terrain on fixed ropes.Interview with Garrett Madison from CP

German Alpinist Jost Kobusch is back home after accomplishing his objective of a winter, solo, no-O’s climb to tag over 7500 meters on Everest’s West Ridge. In this podcast, we go into deep detail on his climb. If you are a climber, explorer or sour on the entire Everest scene, this is for you. #everest2025

Welcome to my limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. For eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. Today is Episode 9, Acocangua with special guests Garret Madison and Ed Viesturs. Next week, I wrap up this series with an Everest episode and special guests Adrian Ballinger, founder of Alpenglow and Mike Hammill, founder of Climbing the Seven Summits. #7summits Aconcagua is the highest peak in South America, at 22,902/6960m. It is an excellent warmup before climbing Everest, testing your fitness at altitude and thoroughly testing your gear in harsh conditions. It's a cold peak and an excellent cultural experience. Garrett Madison & Ed Vesturs Interview I managed to nab these two legends to discuss Aconcagua and other mountaineering topics. Ed guided Ryan, my 19-year-old Summit Coach client, who summited Everest in style this year, up Aconcagua as he prepared for his climb. Obviously, Ed is a wealth of mountaineering knowledge, so we discussed Acocangua, common climbing mistakes, and, of course, Everest, as well as finding Sandy Irvine's foot in his boot this year. Garrett is well known as the founder and owner of Maddison Mountaineering. He will be on Everest for his hopefully 15th summit, tying Dave Hahn for the second-most summits by a non-Sherpaa. Kenton Cool has the title at 18. Garrett also recently summited Carystensz after a five-year break when the government closed the peak due to violence in the area. He gives us a quick update on that. Episodes will drop each week: September 15: Introduction September 22: Mt. Kosciuszko, Australia - 7,310/2228m September 29: Mt. Blanc, France/Italy - 15,771'/4807m October 6: Vinson, Antarctica - 16,067/4897m October 13: Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea - 16,023/4884m October 20: Elbrus, Russia - 18,513/5642m October 27: Kilimanjaro, Africa - 19,340/5896m November 3: Denali, Alaska - 20,320/6194m November 10: Aconcagua, Argentina - 22,902/6960m November 17: Everest, Nepal/Tibet - 29,035/8850m https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/11/15/podcast-series-7-summits-episode-9-aconcagua-with-garrett-madison-ed-vesturs-interview/

Welcome to my limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail for eight weeks. Today is Episode 8, Denali, with special guest Dahn Hahn, who has summited it 38 times. #7summits Alaska's Denali is the highest peak in North America at 20,310 feet (6,190 meters). It requires the strongest fitness level, Everest's altitude notwithstanding, of the Seven Summits to climb. Yet it offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery on the planet. It's not a climb to be underestimated, but a rewarding experience if you can climb it. Overview Denali is located in central Alaska, 300 miles South of the Arctic Circle and 200 miles East of the Bearing Sea. Denali is the native American name for the mountain, but in 1896, Prospector William Dickey renamed the peak Mt. McKinley for Presidential nominee William McKinley of Ohio. Denali National Park and Preserve was established as Mount McKinley National Park on February 26, 1917. The surrounding area was named Denali National Park by the National Park Service in 1980. In 2015, the mountain's name was officially renamed Denali. The 20,310-foot south summit was first attempted in 1903, and the first summit was in 1913 by Hudson Stuck, Walter Harper, Harry Karstens, and Robert Tatum. Harper was a Native Alaskan. Like many of the Seven Summits, Denali has gained in popularity, with well over 1,000 people attempting each year. The attempts peaked in 2005 at 1,340, and 2013 had the most summits with 775. 2023 was a difficult weather year with only a 30% summit rate. Through 2023, 49,818 climbers have attempted Denali, with 25,835 summiting, a 52% success rate. Deaths occur almost yearly due to frostbite, weather, and poor preparedness. Nearly 100 have died, including 11 in 1992. Dave Hahn Interview I've known Dave for years, having run into him on Denali and Everest several times. Dave is a world-class mountain guide. He has been a guide for Rainier Mountaineering Inc. (RMI) for nearly 40 years. His summits are impressive: 300+ on Rainier, 40 on Vinson, 38 summits of Denali out of 49 attempts, Cho Oyu and Aconcagua, plus others. He also loves to guide the Shackleton Crossing on South Georgia Island. Also, Dave had more Everest summits at 15 than any foreigner until Kenton Cool passed him with 18. He is an accomplished climber and an impressive writer who provides some of the most insightful dispatches from any climb. I was lucky to catch him at home in Taos, where he has been a professional ski patroller at Taos Ski Valley since 1985. I wanted to do a deep dive into climbing Denali and mine his experience for the nuances of climbing the "Great One." Episodes will drop each week: September 15: Introduction September 22: Mt. Kosciuszko, Australia - 7,310/2228m September 29: Mt. Blanc, France/Italy - 15,771'/4807m October 6: Vinson, Antarctica - 16,067/4897m October 13: Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea - 16,023/4884m October 20: Elbrus, Russia - 18,513/5642m October 27: Kilimanjaro, Africa - 19,340/5896m November 3: Denali, Alaska - 20,320/6194m November 10: Aconcagua, Argentina - 22,902/6960m November 17: Everest, Nepal/Tibet - 29,035/8850m

Welcome to my limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. For eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. Today is Episode 7, Kilimanjaro. #7summitsOf all the Seven Summits, Kilimanjaro offers a two-for kind of "climb." Well, to be accurate, it's more of a trek to 20,000 feet and a safari for those wanting more Africa. The experiences are a cultural treat made special by everyone you meet in restaurants and hotels, not to mention the guides, porters and safari leaders. It is a must-do for anyone seeking adventure and global education.OverviewKili is among the world's highest volcanoes at 19,340 feet / 5894 meters. The highest is Ojos del Salado, at 22,615 feet/ 6893 meters on the Argentina/Chile border. German Hans Meyer first summited Kili in 1889. The volcano has three peaks: Kibo, Shira and Mawenzi, with Kibo being the summit.Many climbers consider it a walk-up, but it still represents a deadly threat when climbers go too fast or ignore challenging weather. The local park officials maintain strict rules and require local guides to accompany each team. The climb takes four to seven days, with seven being the suggested minimum time, with eight or nine even better, to allow for proper acclimatization. Tent camping is the standard on all routes. Porters carry most of the group gear, so climbers usually just manage a small day pack, weighing 10 and 15 pounds.Of note, the Kilimanjaro Porters Assistance Project (KPAP) encourages climbers and visitors to support the Kili porters by donating clothes, but more importantly, it monitors operators regarding the fair treatment of all porters, including pay, health, insurance and gear.Kilimanjaro is the closest of the seven to the equator, so January, February and July through October will offer the best weather. March, April, and November are the rainy months.The second highest mountain in Africa is Mt. Kenya in Kenya, at 17,057'/5199m, 250 miles north of Kilimanjaro.The 7 Summits idea was hatched and first accomplished by American Dick Bass. He started with six summits in 1983: #Aconcagua, #Kilimanjaro, #Elbrus, #Denali, #Vinson and #Kosciuszko. Then, with guide David Breashears, he became the oldest person, 55 at the time, to summit #Everest in 1985. Canadian Patrick Morrow became the first to summit all seven with Carstensz in addition to Kosciuszko in 1986. Italy mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner summited all the peaks without supplemental oxygen, a first, and completed the task in 1986. #7summitsEpisodes will drop each week:September 15: IntroductionSeptember 22: Mt. Kosciuszko, Australia - 7,310/2228mSeptember 29: Mt. Blanc, France/Italy - 15,771'/4807mOctober 6: Vinson, Antarctica - 16,067/4897mOctober 13: Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea - 16,023/4884mOctober 20: Elbrus, Russia - 18,513/5642mOctober 27: Kilimanjaro, Africa - 19,340/5896mNovember 3: Denali, Alaska - 20,320/6194mNovember 10: Aconcagua, Argentina - 22,902/6960mNovember 17: Everest, Nepal/Tibet - 29,035/8850m

Welcome to my limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. For eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. Today is Episode 6, Elbrus, Russia. #7summits Of all the Seven Summits, Elbrus offers a unique cultural experience as it lies in Russia. Thus, it is the highest peak in Europe and is considered an active volcano. Mont Blanc is second and highest in Western Europe. The Ukraine war has discouraged many climbers from going there, but a few still make it, including Americans. However, the US State Department strongly advises Americans against entering Russia for any reason. Mount Elbrus is an extinct volcano in the Caucasus Main Range, the European border with Asia in southern Russia between the Black and Caspian seas. It has two main summits: the western summit at 18,513'/5642m and the eastern summit at 18,442'/5621m. A Russian army team was the first to ascend the West Summit in 1829, and an English team at the East Summit in 1874. The regular climbing season is from May to September. The climb is relatively short by 7 Summit standards, taking less than a week at most. I climbed from the north side using a base camp and a high camp, where we launched the summit bid. This side offers more of a climbing experience and is significantly less crowded. The 7 Summits idea was hatched and first accomplished by American Dick Bass. He started with six summits in 1983: #Aconcagua, #Kilimanjaro, #Elbrus, #Denali, #Vinson and #Kosciuszko. Then, with guide David Breashears, he became the oldest person, 55 at the time, to summit Everest in 1985. Canadian Patrick Morrow became the first to summit all seven with Carstensz in addition to Kosciuszko in 1986. Italy mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner summited all the peaks without supplemental oxygen, a first, and completed the task in 1986. #7summits Episodes will drop each week: September 15: Introduction September 22: Mt. Kosciuszko, Australia - 7,310/2228m September 29: Mt. Blanc, France/Italy - 15,771'/4807m October 6: Vinson, Antarctica - 16,067/4897m October 13: Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea - 16,023/4884m October 20: Elbrus, Russia - 18,513/5642m October 27: Kilimanjaro, Africa - 19,340/5896m November 3: Denali, Alaska - 20,320/6194m November 10: Aconcagua, Argentina - 22,902/6960m November 17: Everest, Nepal/Tibet - 29,035/8850m

Welcome to my new limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. For the next eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. Today is Episode 5, Carstensz Pyramid Of all the Seven Summits, Carstensz Pyramid, aka Puncak Jaya, in New Guinea is undoubtedly the most exotic and technical to climb. It's also part of the "list" discussion. Are there seven or eight "Seven Summits?" But just getting there can be the real challenge. The Freeport Mining company controls the area and employs 12,000 people. They often close roads, detain climbers trespassing on their land, and labor strikes can bring the entire area to a halt. Kosciuszko and Carstensz Pyramid vie, for which is the seventh of the Seven Summits. Most people who want to climb all seven climb all eight! Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea, is 16,023 feet/4884 meters high. The mountain is in the Sudirman Range of the highlands of Mimika Regency, Central Papua, Indonesia. It's expensive, in the mid-$20,000 range for the 2024 season. The 7 Summits idea was hatched and first accomplished by American Dick Bass. He started with six summits in 1983: Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, Denali, Vinson and Kosciuszko. Then, with guide David Breashears, he became the oldest person, 55 at the time, to summit Everest in 1985. Canadian Patrick Morrow became the first to summit all seven with Carstensz in addition to Kosciuszko in 1986. Italy mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner summited all the peaks without supplemental oxygen, a first, and completed the task in 1986. #7summits Episodes will drop each week: September 15: Introduction September 22: Mt. Kosciuszko, Australia - 7,310/2228m September 29: Mt. Blanc, France/Italy - 15,771'/4807m October 6: Vinson, Antarctica - 16,067/4897m October 13: Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea - 16,023/4884m October 20: Elbrus, Russia - 18,513/5642m October 27: Kilimanjaro, Africa - 19,340/5896m November 3: Denali, Alaska - 20,320/6194m November 10: Aconcagua, Argentina - 22,902/6960m November 17: Everest, Nepal/Tibet - 29,035/8850m

Welcome to my new limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. For the next eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. Today is Episode 4, Antarctica's Vinson Massif. The Vinson Massif is 16,050 feet/4892 meters high. The elevation gain from Vinson Base Camp to the summit is 9,160 feet/2792 meters, all on snow and ice-covered terrain. The primary issue most climbers face is the endless winds. Snow walls built from snow blocks carved out of the landscape are built at each camp to protect tents from the winds. Vision has a short climbing season on the Antarctica continent from mid-November to the end of January. It's also among the Seven's most expensive, in the mid $50,000 range for 2024. #7Summits The 7 Summits idea was hatched and first accomplished by American Dick Bass. He started with six summits in 1983: Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, Denali, Vinson and Kosciuszko. Then, with guide David Breashears, he became the oldest person, 55 at the time, to summit Everest in 1985. Canadian Patrick Morrow became the first to summit all seven with Carstensz in addition to Kosciuszko in 1986. Italy mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner summited all the peaks without supplemental oxygen, a first, and completed the task in 1986. #7summmits Episodes will drop each week: September 15: Introduction September 22: Mt. Kosciuszko, Australia - 7,310/2228m September 29: Mt. Blanc, France/Italy - 15,771'/4807m October 6: Vinson, Antarctica - 16,067/4897m October 13: Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea - 16,023/4884m October 20: Elbrus, Russia - 18,513/5642m October 27: Kilimanjaro, Africa - 19,340/5896m November 3: Denali, Alaska - 20,320/6194m November 10: Aconcagua, Argentina - 22,902/6960m November 17: Everest, Nepal/Tibet - 29,035/8850m

Welcome to my new limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. Episode 1 is an introduction plus a brief update on the Autumn climbing activity in Nepal and Tibet. For the next eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the Seven Summits in detail. Today is episode 3, Mt. Blanc. OK, I know what you are thinking, "Alan, Mont Blanc is not one of the Seven Summits!" Yeah, I know, but hear me out. On the border between France and Italy, Mt. Blanc stands at 15,771 feet or 4807 meters high, putting it between Kościuszko and Carstensz Pyramid on the "list(s)." Month Blanc is a vast massif with three primary subpeaks: Mont Maudit, Mont Blanc du Tacul, and Aiguille du Midi.  Most people find Mont Blanc a serious climb given the objective dangers, such as crevasses, rockfall and avalanches, but it is also a cold and windy peak. While it is usually climbed in one day, it's a long day of ten to fifteen hours, gaining up to 5,413 feet or 1,650 meters on most routes. Summer is the most popular time to climb, but as in 2022, it can be brutally hot. If you climb in winter, you must be a highly experienced mountaineer. The 7 Summits idea was hatched and first accomplished by American Dick Bass. He started with six summits in 1983: Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, Denali, Vinson and Kosciuszko. Then, with guide David Breashears, he became the oldest person, 55 at the time, to summit Everest in 1985. Canadian Patrick Morrow became the first to summit all seven with Carstensz in addition to Kosciuszko in 1986. Italy mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner summited all the peaks without supplemental oxygen, a first, and completed the task in 1986. #7summmits Episodes will drop each week: September 15: Introduction September 22: Mt. Kosciuszko, Australia - 7,310/2228m September 29: Mt. Blanc, France/Italy - 15,771'/4807m October 6: Vinson, Antarctica - 16,067/4897m October 13: Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea - 16,023/4884m October 20: Elbrus, Russia - 18,513/5642m October 27: Kilimanjaro, Africa - 19,340/5896m November 3: Denali, Alaska - 20,320/6194m November 10: Aconcagua, Argentina - 22,902/6960m November 17: Everest, Nepal/Tibet - 29,035/8850m

Welcome to my new limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. Episode 1 was an introduction plus a brief update on the Autumn climbing activity in Nepal and Tibet. For the next eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. Today is eposide 2 Mt. Kościuszko.Australia's Kościuszko (7,310'/2228m), located in the Snowy Mountains, is the lowest of the 7 Summits but is perhaps the most controversial. First, there is the pronunciation, then there is the debate about how it compares to other high peaks in Oceania (is New Zealand continent?) ), and last is the relative ease of this "hill" located next to a ski resort. In any event, today, it's considered one of the seven on the Bass list, so most people seeking the 7 Summits will tick the box. The first summit was in 1840 by the Polish explorer Paul Strzelecki. I assume the First Peoples or Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples or the Morano had a crack centuries earlier, but I could be wrong, as many Indigenous people treat mountains as sacred and not to be climbed. Episodes will drop each week: September 15: Introduction September 22: Mt. Kosciuszko, Australia - 7,310/2228m September 29: Mt. Blanc, France/Italy - 15,771'/4807m October 6: Vinson, Antarctica - 16,067/4897mOctober 13: Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea - 16,023/4884m October 20: Elbrus, Russia - 18,513/5642m October 27: Kilimanjaro, Africa - 19,340/5896m November 3: Denali, Alaska - 20,320/6194m November 10: Aconcagua, Argentina - 22,902/6960m November 17: Everest, Nepal/Tibet - 29,035/8850m

Welcome to my new limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. Episode 1 is an introduction plus a brief update on the Autumn climbing activity in Nepal and Tibet. For the next eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. The Seven Summits, aka 7S, represent the highest point on each of the seven continents. However, as with most things in mountaineering, there is controversy. From a geological viewpoint, there are only six continents on Earth: Africa, Antarctica, Australia, Eurasia, South America, and North America. Europe is considered a peninsula of the Eurasia continental platform and is not an actual physical continent. However, from a political perspective, Europe is regarded as a continent; thus, Elbrus (18,513'/5642m), located on the border with Asia in southern Russia, represents Europe and not Mont Blanc (15,771’/4807m), which lies in the Alps on the border of France and Italy. The 7 Summits idea was hatched and first accomplished by American Dick Bass. He started with six summits in 1983: Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, Denali, Vinson and Kosciuszko. Then, with guide David Breashears, he became the oldest person, 55 at the time, to summit Everest in 1985. Canadian Patrick Morrow became the first to summit all seven with Carstensz in addition to Kosciuszko in 1986. Italy mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner summited all the peaks without supplemental oxygen, a first, and completed the task in 1986. #7summmits Episodes will drop each week of: September 15: Introduction September 22: Mt. Kosciuszko, Australia - 7,310/2228m September 29: Mt. Blanc, France/Italy - 15,771'/4807m October 6: Vinson, Antarctica - 16,067/4897m October 13: Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea - 16,023/4884m October 20: Elbrus, Russia - 18,513/5642m October 27: Kilimanjaro, Africa - 19,340/5896m November 3: Denali, Alaska - 20,320/6194m November 10: Aconcagua, Argentina - 22,902/6960m November 17: Everest, Nepal/Tibet - 29,035/8850m

Many of you have followed and know about Massachusetts native 19-year-old Ryan Mitchell, who summited Mt. Everest on May 23, 2024! In this extensive podcast, we discuss his experience from training to the summit and back home.https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/06/07/everest-2024-podcast-ryan-mitchell-on-his-everest-summit-life-changing/