The Tramping Life

In this episode of The Tramping Life, we return to Nelson Lakes National Park for one of New Zealand’s classic backcountry circuits — the 80km Travers–Sabine Circuit — with a demanding side trip to Rotomairewhenua / Blue Lake, regarded as one of the clearest natural freshwater lakes in the world.Starting from St Arnaud on the shores of Lake Rotoiti, the Travers–Sabine Circuit typically takes 4–7 days and traverses a broad cross-section of Nelson Lakes terrain: beech forest, braided river valleys, open tussock basins and high alpine passes. The high point is Poukirikiri / Travers Saddle at 1,787m — a 450m climb followed by a steep 1,000m descent into the Sabine Valley.Along the way I pass Lakehead and John Tait Huts, climb toward Upper Travers, descend to West Sabine, and push on to Blue Lake Hut near Rotomairewhenua. Please note: Blue Lake is a wāhi tapu (sacred site). Visitors must not enter or contaminate the water.This was my thirteenth multi-day tramp — and one of the more eventful. Torrential rain turned tracks into streams. I faced my first flooded river crossing and waited two hours for water levels to drop before committing. A broken hiking pole, hail, thunder, and a long, punishing 23km day tested judgment and pacing. I arrived at Blue Lake Hut in darkness and exhaustion — then woke to perfectly clear water, blue ducks, and mountains reflected in stillness.The Travers–Sabine Circuit rewards preparation, patience and sound decision-making. It is not technical mountaineering, but it is serious tramping — with real exposure to weather, terrain and fatigue.

Lydia Brady is a mountaineer, guide, and author, best known as the first woman to climb Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen.In this episode, Lydia shares her remarkable journey from teenage tramping trips in the Lewis Pass to record-setting Himalayan ascents. She talks about the “James Bond day” that nearly ended in disaster, how she found confidence in the mountains, and what she’s learned guiding others at high altitude. We also discuss how climate change is reshaping Aoraki / Mount Cook, the evolving culture of New Zealand’s alpine huts, and why reconnecting with wild places is essential for our wellbeing and our planet. It’s a conversation about resilience, risk, and the deep rewards of living close to the edge.https://lydiabradey.com/

In this episode of The Tramping Life, we head to Northland for a rugged coastal overnighter along the Cape Brett Peninsula in the Bay of Islands — finishing at one of DOC’s most unusual and historic huts.The 16km one-way Cape Brett Track follows an old Māori trail through regenerating bush and along exposed ridgelines, with constant climbs and descents along the spine of the peninsula. On paper it’s moderate. In reality, it’s physically demanding — particularly in summer heat, with limited shade and often scarce water.At the far end of the peninsula sits Cape Brett Hut, a converted 1909 lighthouse keeper’s house — the last remaining dwelling of what was once a small, isolated community. Nearby stands the Cape Brett Lighthouse (first lit in 1910), one of the last complete original lighthouse complexes remaining on site in New Zealand. Staying here feels less like a typical backcountry hut and more like stepping into a remote slice of maritime history.I walked this in mid-summer, carrying nine litres of water in drought conditions — pushing my pack to 20kg over relentless, undulating terrain. Along the way were panoramic views from 345m above sea level, pest control lines and electric fencing, a detour to Deep Water Cove, and the dramatic final stretch along wave-battered cliffs. I even had a slightly unsettling night alone in the hut — accompanied by an inquisitive seagull that found its way inside.On the return, I extended the trip via the Te Toro Track to Whangamumu Harbour, visiting the haunting remains of the Whangamumu whaling station — the only land-based whaling station in the world to use nets to capture whales. Rusted boilers and oil vats remain scattered across a now peaceful harbour accessible only by foot or boat.Sixteen kilometres may not sound far, but the Cape Brett Track has a reputation for testing walkers more than expected. It’s a short tramp with a big feel — historic, exposed, and deeply atmospheric.

From school tramping clubs to epic trans-alpine expeditions, Rob Frost has spent a lifetime exploring the wild backcountry of Aotearoa New Zealand. An engineer turned mountain-guide, photographer, and author of the award-winning Aoraki Tai Poutini – A Guide for Mountaineers, Rob shares how early experiences above the tree line sparked a fascination with remote routes and self-sufficiency.  In this episode we talk about: - Misadventures that became defining lessons — and why “adventure is a sign of incompetence.”- Surviving blizzards, storms and nine-day epics in the Southern Alps.- How guiding with Mountain Journeys blends tramping and mountaineering into something uniquely Kiwi.- Writing, mentoring, and the enduring influence of Geoff Spearpoint.  A thoughtful conversation about humility in the hills, learning from mistakes, and finding joy in hard journeys.https://mountainjourneys.co.nz/https://www.facebook.com/mountainjourneysnz/https://www.instagram.com/mountainjourneysnz/

In this episode of The Tramping Life, we head to Tongariro National Park for an extended circuit of one of New Zealand’s most iconic landscapes — combining the Tongariro Northern Circuit Great Walk with the Around the Mountain Track into a six-day, 82km loop from Whakapapa Village.Established in 1887, Tongariro is New Zealand’s oldest national park and a dual UNESCO World Heritage site, recognised for both its natural and cultural significance. At its heart stand three volcanic giants: Mount Ruapehu, Mount Ngauruhoe, and Mount Tongariro. This is a landscape that is geologically young, spiritually significant, and constantly changing.The Tongariro Northern Circuit is a 43km Great Walk looping around Mount Ngauruhoe and incorporating much of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. The Around the Mountain Track is a tougher 66km circuit of Mount Ruapehu, crossing the stark Rangipo Desert and remote eastern flanks of the mountain. Linking the two creates a demanding but logistically straightforward full circuit of the park.In this episode, I describe a six-day itinerary. Along the way I share reflections from multiple visits to the park — from the busy Alpine Crossing to near-empty backcountry huts, sunrise over Ruapehu, distant views of Mount Taranaki, and the constantly shifting volcanic terrain.This is not technical mountaineering, but it is serious tramping. The terrain is often rocky and exposed, weather can change rapidly, and some sections involve long days between huts. In winter or shoulder seasons, alpine conditions demand appropriate gear and experience.

Peter Hillary is a mountaineer, author, and adventurer. The son of Sir Edmund Hillary, Peter has forged his own remarkable path — from summiting Everest and crossing Antarctica to dedicating his life to exploration, storytelling, and conservation. In this episode of The Tramping Life, Peter reflects on a lifetime spent outdoors — from his first climb at age ten with his father and Mingma Tsering, to sleeping sixteen years of his life under canvas. We talk about the lessons of risk and resilience on mountains like K2, the changes he’s witnessed on Everest and in the polar regions, and the joy of sharing adventures with his own children. Peter also discusses his passion for conservation, his memories of New Zealand’s huts and valleys, and why spending time in wild places remains one of life’s greatest teachers. A thoughtful conversation with one of New Zealand’s great adventurers — about family, legacy, and the enduring power of the outdoors.https://www.peterhillary.com/

In this episode of The Tramping Life, we head into the north-west of Kahurangi National Park to explore the Thousand Acre Plateau — a vast upland landscape of limestone formations, open tussock and sweeping horizons.Rising to around 1000 metres above sea level, this elevated former seabed feels unlike almost anywhere else in New Zealand. Accessed via the Matiri Valley Road near Murchison, the tramp begins gently along a 4WD access track to Lake Matiri Hut, before a sustained 750-metre climb delivers you onto the plateau rim.From there, the route traverses open, often boggy terrain to the tiny two-bunk Poor Pete’s Hut and on to Larrikin Creek Hut beneath the limestone bluffs of The Haystack. Along the way are distinctive landmarks such as The Needle and Mount Misery, offering optional scrambling trips and expansive views across this stark, exposed landscape.I share my three-day, 44km journey across the plateau in mid-summer — the long hot crossings, the steep climbs, dry tarns, sandflies, an refreshing creek dip, and a close brush with heat exhaustion. We also encountered an inspiring retired couple who had been tramping five days a week for over a year — proof that adventure doesn’t come with an expiry date.This is a route rather than a manicured track. It demands fitness, sound navigation, and respect for rapidly changing conditions. In summer, there is little shade and heat can be a serious factor. In wet weather, the mud and stream crossings can be challenging.

Jan Finlayson has spent a lifetime exploring and advocating for New Zealand’s wild places. In this conversation she reflects on childhood memories of camping and school tramps, early adventures on the Routeburn, and the lessons learned from near misses in the mountains and rivers. We talk about her strong views on hut booking systems and access rights, and why legal roads and stewardship land matter for the future of conservation. Jan’s stories move between humour, challenge, and deep care for the backcountry — and remind us what’s at stake in protecting the places we tramp.

Today we head into Nelson Lakes National Park to one of the country’s most iconic alpine destinations — Angelus Hut.Perched at 1,650 metres beside Lake Angelus and surrounded by the rugged Travers Range, Angelus is a true alpine hut — spectacular in fine weather, serious and unforgiving when conditions turn. In this episode I walk through the five main routes to the hut: the exposed Robert Ridge, the more sheltered Speargrass Track and Speargrass Creek route, the Travers Cascade route, the steep Mount Cedric route from Sabine Hut, and the demanding unmarked line via Sunset Saddle from Hopeless Hut.I share the history of the hut — from the original 1956 tin shelter built by the Nelson Ski Club with supplies dropped by RNZAF Bristol Freighter, through to the modern 28-bunk hut opened in 2010 — and reflect on multiple visits over the years, including torrential rain, hailstorms, solo travel, knee injuries, and one trip that ended with New Zealand entering national lockdown.Angelus Hut is as much about decision-making as it is about scenery. I discuss route choice, alpine risk, weather awareness, booking requirements, and why this is not a place to push on in marginal conditions. If you’re considering the classic Travers–Sabine Circuit, or simply want to understand what makes Angelus one of New Zealand’s standout alpine huts, this episode will give you both context and practical insight.

Marios Gavalas has spent decades exploring Aotearoa’s mountains, forests and coastlines — and helping others do the same through his books, guiding, and photography.  In this episode of The Tramping Life, Marius shares stories from his early days tramping the Coromandel with little more than a tent and a pair of skis, to writing 18 guidebooks that introduced countless people to New Zealand’s tracks.  We talk about his transition from writer to professional guide, what it’s like to live for a decade in a yurt, and why his “tramping bucket list” now begins just outside his back door in the Motueka Valley.  Along the way, Marios reflects on the joy of slow walking, his encounters with falcons and penguins, and the quiet art of living close to nature — with just a thin layer of canvas in between.https://hikingnewzealand.com/blog/meet-our-guide-marios-gavalas

Today we’re heading to Banks Peninsula and one of New Zealand’s most varied multi-day walks — a privately run track that combines coastal scenery, wildlife, and unusually comfortable accommodation. This episode explores Banks Track.Opened in 1989, Banks Track was New Zealand’s first private walking track. The 31km route is walked over two or three days, crossing farmland, regenerating native bush, volcanic ridgelines, and dramatic coastline, with wide views over Akaroa Harbour and the Pacific Ocean. Along the way, walkers often encounter little blue penguins, New Zealand fur seals, and abundant birdlife.I walked Banks Track over three days, through forest reserves, swam beneath waterfalls, followed exposed coastal cliffs, and stayed at Onuku Farm, Flea Bay, and Stony Bay — each offering a very different experience, from penguin colonies to outdoor wood-fired baths.In this episode I give an overview of Banks Track, describe my experience walking it, highlight the wildlife and accommodation that make it unique, and share practical advice for anyone considering either the two-day or three-day option.https://bankstrack.co.nz/

Neil Silverwood is a leading photographer, conservationist, and lifelong caver. Neil takes us not only deep underground but also high into the hills, sharing stories of tramping, caving, and flying. We talk about the challenges of caving – from hauling 35kg of gear, to eight hours stuck in a squeeze, to emerging from the dark into alpine light. Neil reflects on caves as “a black-and-white world,” the universality of claustrophobia, and the joy of taking flight through paragliding. Neil also recalls adventures on Stewart Island, where the remoteness, wild weather, and rugged coastline bring their own challenges and rewards for trampers and explorers.https://www.neilsilverwood.com/

Today we’re heading to the West Coast and one of its most popular tramps — an historic track best known for its natural hot pools. This episode explores the Copland Track and Welcome Flat Hut.Developed in the early 20th century as a route across the Southern Alps, the Copland Track is now usually walked as a return trip from the West Coast road end to Welcome Flat Hut. The 18km track follows rivers, crosses swing bridges, and winds through lush rainforest before emerging beneath the towering Sierra Range.I walked the track in early spring, navigating Rough Creek, sandflies, glacial rivers, and long stretches of well-graded track before spending two nights at Welcome Flat Hut. The 31-bunk hut is famous for its nearby hot pools, fed by natural spring water, and for the unusual Sierra Room.In this episode I give an overview of the track and hut, describe my experience of it, and share practical advice for those thinking of walking it.https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/west-coast/places/westland-tai-poutini-national-park/things-to-do/tracks/copland-track-to-welcome-flat-hut/

Corina Jordan is Chief Executive of the Game Animal Council and Fish & Game New Zealand. We talk about her lifelong love of the outdoors, from childhood adventures in Northland and Taranaki to her current role shaping New Zealand’s hunting and conservation policies.  Corina explains how modern game management can benefit both hunters and conservation, what “herds of special interest” mean for species like tahr and sika, and how organizations like Fish & Game are restoring wetlands and advocating for healthy rivers.  We also cover the realities of hunting in New Zealand today – from deer management and the Canada goose debate to the growing number of women hunters and the synergies between hunting and tramping communities.  It’s a thoughtful conversation about how people, policy, and passion intersect in the New Zealand backcountry.New Zealand Game Animal Council - https://nzgameanimalcouncil.org.nz/Fish & Game New Zealand - https://www.fishandgame.org.nz/

Geoff Spearpoint is one of New Zealand’s most experienced trampers, writers, and backcountry advocates. For decades he has explored some of the country’s most remote corners, helped preserve our huts and tracks, and inspired countless trampers through books, photography, and articles.In this episode we talk about his beginnings in the Tararuas, youthful adventures that nearly went wrong, and the friendships that shaped his tramping life. Jeff shares stories of ambitious expeditions across Fiordland and the Southern Alps, surreal moments in the mountains, and encounters with kiwi and kakapo.We also discuss the evolution of New Zealand’s hut and track network, the volunteer movement to preserve it, and the cultural importance of huts in our backcountry. Jeff reflects on climate change’s impact on glaciers, the rhythms of birdlife, and what still remains on his bucket list after a lifetime in the hills.

Craig Potton is a photographer, publisher, conservationist, and one of New Zealand’s most thoughtful voices on wild places.  Craig’s stories take us from crawling out the back door as a kid in Nelson, to surfing wild west coast breaks, finding happiness in the Himalaya, and carrying camera gear heavy enough to need a chiropractor decades later. We talk about burning down a hut (almost), sleeping beneath bivvy rocks, the heartbreak of vanishing glaciers, and the deep connection between wilderness, gratitude, and art.https://www.craigpottongallery.co.nz/

Celia Wade-Brown is a Green Party MP, former mayor of Wellington, founder of the Wairarapa Walking Festival, and a lifelong tramper. From childhood walks in London’s parks and the Lake District, to rafting adventures, multi-day tramps in the Tararuas, and eventually walking the length of New Zealand on Te Araroa, Celia’s journey reflects her passion for the outdoors and sustainable living. In this episode, she shares the joys and challenges of Te Araroa, why outdoor education matters, the importance of conservation funding, and why protecting New Zealand’s wild places matters more than ever.

Gerry McSweeney is a lifelong tramper, former president of Forest & Bird, and founder of Wilderness Lodges at Lake Moeraki and Arthur’s Pass. Jerry reflects on his early days with the Christchurch Tramping Club, hard river crossings and tramping with trains, and how tramping shaped his lifelong commitment to conservation.We hear stories of endurance epics in the Southern Alps, the importance of predator control, and the transformation he’s witnessed in New Zealand’s forests and birdlife over decades. Gerry also shares his passion for Fiordland crested penguins, thoughts on tourism and guiding, and his favourite huts and hidden valleys.It’s a conversation that weaves together tramping adventures, conservation battles, and a deep love of Aotearoa’s wild places.https://www.wildernesslodge.co.nz/new-zealand/the-lodges/conservation/

My guests today are Kemi and Niko, the creative duo behind Kemi Niko & Co. Known for their handcrafted miniature huts, public art projects, and love for New Zealand’s backcountry, they blend art, design, and outdoor culture in a way that’s utterly unique.We talk about how they began as broke artists in Wellington, their passion for real materials and hut heritage, the challenge of raising kids who tramp, and the surprising demand for tiny huts made from salvaged tin and timber.It’s a story of creativity, persistence, and connection — to the land, to people, and to the simple joy of shelter.For more information visit their website at http://www.keminiko.com/ and follow them on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/kemi_niko/

Alistair Hall has been the editor and publisher of Wilderness Magazine for nearly two decades — and part of its story since the early 1990s. In this episode, he talks about his earliest outdoor memories, the “type two fun” that sparked his passion for tramping, and the muddy, magical challenge of the Southern Circuit on Rakiura.He shares what it takes to produce a monthly magazine that’s chronicled New Zealand’s outdoor culture for more than 30 years, why Wilderness has endured while others folded, and what he learned from an ill-fated experiment with AI illustrations.From school camps in Tongariro to the “worst tramp in New Zealand,” to launching the Walk1200 challenge — this is a fascinating look behind the scenes at a publication that’s inspired generations of trampers.http://wildernessmag.co.nz/https://www.wildernessmag.co.nz/new-zealands-worst-tramp

Victoria and Emilie Bruce have shared thousands of kilometres of trail — and hundreds of backcountry huts — between them. When Emilie was just seven years old, the pair set off to walk the length of New Zealand on the Te Araroa Trail, raising funds for conservation and mental health, and inspiring trampers young and old along the way.  In this episode, Victoria and Emilie talk about the adventures that shaped them — from snowstorms in Nelson Lakes to the solitude of the West Coast — and the lessons learned through blisters, laughter, and lollies. We hear how their journey turned into two books (Adventures with Emilie and Emilie Walks), and how they’ve kept exploring ever since — with more than 400 huts now ticked off their growing list.  It’s a story of courage, curiosity, and connection — a reminder that the best adventures are often the ones we share.https://www.instagram.com/adventures_with_emilie/https://wilderlife.nz/category/adventures_with_emilie/https://www.pottonandburton.co.nz/about/our-authors-photographers-and-illustrators/emilie-victoria-bruce/

Andrew Buglass is the founder of Permolat and the central figure in The Hut Keepers, a new film celebrating the grassroots effort to preserve New Zealand’s hut network. In this episode, Andrew shares his deep connection with the mountains, the challenges of solitude, and the pivotal experiences that shaped his lifelong commitment to protecting backcountry huts. From youthful nights in the hills with only a transistor radio for company, to leading a movement that has kept our huts alive for future generations, Andrew reflects on what it means to belong in the backcountry.Photo: Andrew by lake on Elliot tops, credit Paulette Birchfieldhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/permolat/https://www.remotehuts.co.nz/

Jerry Van Lier is the creator and host of the Tararua Fever podcast, which dives deep into the rugged, rewarding, and sometimes notorious Tararua Ranges. From his very first tramp at the age of six to weathering gnarly conditions on southern crossings, Jerry’s stories capture both the challenges and the joys of these hills. We talk about tramping clubs and changing generations, hairy sections like the Waiohine Pinnacles, the huts he loves (and avoids), his philosophy on gear and safety, and what’s still on his bucket list. Jerry’s passion for the Tararuas shines through — as does the adrenaline that keeps pulling him back. Listen to Tararua Fever at https://www.buzzsprout.com/2444792 or from whenever you get your podcasts

Megan Dimozantos is president of the Federated Mountain Clubs (FMC), and a passionate advocate for our huts, tracks, and wild places. We talk about her late introduction to the outdoors through rock climbing, her years of 24-hour solo mountain bike racing, and how volunteering with LandSAR drew her deep into New Zealand’s backcountry. Megan shares stories of epic 10 to 15 day trips, the lessons of running out of food in the wilderness, the special meaning behind moving a hut with an all-women crew, and the challenges tramping faces in an era of social media and climate change. It’s a wide-ranging conversation about advocacy, adventure, and what sustains our tramping culture. https://fmc.org.nz/

Rob Brown is one of the most influential voices in New Zealand tramping. Rob is the National Operations Manager of the Backcountry Trust, the organisation that supports volunteers to restore and maintain our huts and tracks. He is also a renowned photographer, writer, and long-time advocate for the outdoors.In this wide-ranging conversation, Rob shares stories of his early adventures with the Massey University Alpine Club, his long tramping partnership with Shaun Barnett, and the making of the best selling Classic Tramping. We talk about memorable trips into places like Ivory Lake and the Landsborough Wilderness, near-misses in wild country, and the evolving role of New Zealand’s hut network. Rob also reflects on what huts mean for our culture, how the Backcountry Trust works in partnership with DOC and local communities, and where the future of our backcountry huts might be heading.If you’ve ever wondered about the stories behind New Zealand’s huts — and the people who keep them alive — this episode is for you.https://www.backcountrytrust.org.nz/

Lou Sanson, former Director-General of the Department of Conservation, has spent a lifetime in New Zealand’s backcountry. From his childhood on the West Coast being taken tramping before he could walk, through teenage missions into wild valleys, to a career cutting tracks, leading DOC, and supporting the Backcountry Trust, Lou has lived and breathed the outdoors.We talk about:His earliest memories of family adventures in the hills.The tramps and mentors that shaped his love of the backcountry.Turning a passion for the outdoors into a lifelong career.Memorable tramping trips — from Ivory Lake to Stewart Island to the Auckland Islands.The future of our hut and track network, and the balance between recreation, conservation, and tourism.His annual tradition of spending the longest day of the year on a mountain summit.It’s a conversation full of stories, reflection, and inspiration from one of the key figures behind New Zealand’s conservation and recreation legacy.