016 攀岩没有“标准的身体” No Such Thing as the Standard Body in Rock Climbing

本期节目文字稿 【聊了什么 The What】 这一期《残言片语》，我们从Alex Honnold徒手攀登台北101大楼谈起。八如采访仁慈分享了作为假肢使用者的攀岩历程——从室内岩馆到Joshua Tree国家公园首次挑战30米户外岩壁的经历。我们探讨了岩馆中的无障碍挑战、残障者攀岩的分级制度，以及攀岩如何成为一项相对包容但仍有改进空间的运动。在攀岩中,每个人都能在风险与专注之间找到属于自己的自由与平静，而这正是运动本身所带来的纯粹幸福。 In this episode of "Fragments of Words," we begin with Alex Honnold's free solo climb of Taipei 101. Baru interviews Renci, who shares their climbing journey as a prosthetic user—from indoor gyms to their first outdoor climb on a 30-meter rock wall at Joshua Tree National Park. We discuss accessibility challenges at climbing gyms, the classification system for adaptive climbing, and how climbing has become a relatively inclusive sport that still has room for improvement. In climbing, everyone can find their own freedom and peace between risk and focus—this is the pure joy that sports themselves bring. 【时间轴 The When】 00:00 - 开场与新年问候 00:42 - 感谢听众与2025播客大赏 02:06 - Alex Honnold攀登台北101的启发 04:32 - 仁慈的攀岩初体验：从清华到Joshua Tree 08:03 - 第一次户外攀岩：30米大岩石的挑战 13:09 - 攀岩作为「生与死的运动」 17:46 - 攀岩中的包容性与个人化体验 25:36 - 美国残障者攀岩比赛经验分享 29:01 - 使用假肢攀岩的挑战与适应 47:28 - 给攀岩新手的建议：第一次就是要爬上去 00:00 - Opening and New Year Greetings 00:42 - Gratitude to Listeners & 2025 Podcast Awards 02:06 - Inspiration from Alex Honnold's Taipei 101 Climb 04:32 - Renci's First Climbing Experience: From Tsinghua to Joshua Tree 08:03 - First Outdoor Climb: The 30-Meter Rock Challenge 13:09 - Climbing as a "Sport of Life and Death" 17:46 - Inclusivity and Personalization in Climbing 25:36 - Sharing Experience from U.S. Adaptive Climbing Competition 29:01 - Challenges and Adaptations of Climbing with a Prosthetic 47:28 - Advice for New Climbers: Just Get to the Top on Your First Try 【我们是谁 Who We Are】 残言片语是一档用残障视角看主流问题的中文播客。残障是人类无法逃避的脆弱性问题，我们致力于在日常生活和社会热点中搜寻被忽视的残障视角，期待和观众一起挑战刻板印象，打击健全中心主义（Ableism），从而真诚地感知、理解、创造自己与世界。 “Disabled Talks” is a Chinese podcast that explores mainstream issues through a disability lens, recognizing disability as an unavoidable aspect of human vulnerability often overlooked in mainstream discussions. Our mission is to uncover overlooked disability perspectives in everyday life and current events, challenge stereotypes, combat ableism alongside our audience, and foster genuine ways to perceive, understand, and shape ourselves and the world. Join us in reimagining societal narratives through the vital prism of disability experience. 【支持我们 Please Support Us】 如果喜欢这期节目并愿意支持我们： 海外用户：patreon.com/disabledtalks 海内用户：afdian.com/a/disabledtalks 商务合作邮箱：[email protected] If you like our show and want to support us, please consider the following: Those Abroad: patreon.com/disabledtalks Those in China: afdian.com/a/disabledtalks Business Inquiries Email: [email protected]