#12 Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, Chef de Caves, Louis Roederer, on the 50th Anniversary of Cristal Rosé

Louis Roederer’s chef de caves, Jean Baptiste Lécaillon, is something like a unicorn in Champagne. He is much more than a winemaker – or winegrower – for that matter. It’s no secret that he has been a trailblazer for progressive sustainability, not only at the Maison, but across the entire industry. I like to think of him as a grand philosopher – a kind of maestro – for the region’s trajectory for environmental change to be better prepared for climate challenges, but also for what he terms ‘the pursuit of taste‘ and returning to craftsmanship. Over more than two decades, Jean-Baptiste’s frustration for excellence has culminated in the Maison’s reputation as one of the finest in all of Champagne, with wines that consistently rank amongst the best within wine critic circles and various media. But today, we are here to talk about Champagne’s most exclusive Rosé – Cristal Rosé – because this year is particularly special, marking 50 years since its first vintage in 1974. These are precious and rare wines, meticulously and lovingly made that possess a softness and deliciousness that is not heavy, nor light, within a finely chiselled chalk framework. In 2007, Cristal Rosé became Jean-Baptiste’s first biodynamically farmed ‘baby’, which was also the first for a prestige champagne. Their beautiful evolution as a wine over time, punctuated with textural luxury, represents the culmination of this long-documented path to biodynamics and craftsmanship. It was my honour to sit down with Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon on the occasion of Cristal Rosé’s 50th Anniversary, for this special interview.