#447 Dr Natasha Barnes - Does Weighing Less Make For Better Climbers and Athletes?

Dr Natasha Barnes returns to share her expertise on climbing and strength training and how these principles apply broadly to everyone, including thoughts about:-Are lighter climbers better climbers-The problem with focusing on weighing less as a performance enhancer in climbing-Is disordered eating more prevalent in climbing and weight class sports?-Are more climbers coming around to the value of strength training-The story behind Natasha saying “The lightest I’ve ever been was also the most broken I’ve ever been”-Why climbing may be a great outlet for adults to put more fun and play into their lives-When you would benefit from putting on weight and muscle for your sport-How to enhance strength without gaining weight-Why squatting is better than doing pistol squats for most training goals-The problem with feats of strength on social media, that aren’t useful training methodologies-How can someone reduce the chance of injury when starting a new program-Is climbing a safe activity-How people end up increasing their risk of injury in training and climbing-And much moreIG: @natashabarnesCHAPTERS00:46 Are lighter climbers better02:10 Free solo and El Capitan03:24 Calculated risk and preparation05:34 Strength to weight myth07:07 Technique over weight loss07:47 Eating disorders in climbing09:22 Leg strength and injuries10:48 Olympic climbing explained11:36 Sponsor break — RP app12:59 Why strength training matters14:00 Longevity and pro trends15:44 “Lightest and most broken”17:43 Disordered eating behaviors19:56 Strength without weight gain21:42 Programming for strength23:41 Body fat sweet spot24:43 Society and being smaller26:14 Ozempic and media extremes28:27 Role models and responsibility28:48 Celebrity body scrutiny30:19 Pistol squats vs real strength33:54 Climbing parlor tricks35:27 New program new injury38:12 Autoregulation with RPE40:13 Underprepared tissue injuries42:52 Why climbing feels like play44:02 How to start climbing46:54 Climbing injury rates48:05 Aging vs undertraining53:33 Bone density comebacks54:40 Where to find NatashaSUPPORT THE SHOWIf this episode helped you rethink body weight, strength, or performance, you can support the show by:• Subscribing and checking out more episodes• Sharing it on your social media (tag me — I’ll respond)• Sending it to someone interested in climbing or athletic performanceFOLLOW ANDREW COATESInstagram: @andrewcoatesfitnesshttps://www.andrewcoatesfitness.comPARTNERS AND RESOURCESRP Strength App (use code COATESRP)https://www.rpstrength.com/coatesJust Bite Me Meals (use code ANDREWCOATESFITNESS for 10% off)https://justbitememeals.comMacrosFirst – FREE Premium TrialDownload MacrosFirst and during setup you’ll be asked “How did you hear about us?”Type in: ANDREWKNKG Bags (15% off)https://www.knkg.com/Andrew59676Versa Gripps (discount link)https://www.versagripps.com/andrewcoatesTRAINHEROIC – FREE 90-Day Trial (2 steps)Go to https://www.trainheroic.com/liftfreeReply to the email you receive (or email [email protected]) and let them know Andrew sent you