48. How To Create A Climbing Training Plan with Steve Bechtel
from Modus Cafe: Conversations Beyond Climbing Hosted by Mercedes Pollmeier & Katja Dove
We're at the end of the training series with Steve Bechtel. Today we put our training knowledge together and talk about how to create your own training program. Whether you're a boulderer, sport climber, or non-competitive climber, this episode is for you. Previously we've talked about energy systems, mental tactics, performance, and today we're cramming in a lot more info on how to put together a climbing training program! If you need a reminder on power endurance, essentials of strength climbing, recovery, and much more - go back and have a listen to the other episodes in this training series with Steve! Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together Also, Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass 00:01:11 How to frame "training" 00:07:04 How to decide what to focus on when creating an off-season plan 00:12:47 Skill goals vs grade goals 00:15:21 How to balance working on weakness & strengths 00:19:27 Less measurable qualities, less obvious progression 00:24:48 When and if to work on finger strength 00:29:00 How to put a training program together 00:38:36 Minimum guideline: how little you can train 00:44:01 Pre-season focus 00:46:39 Performance phase balance 00:50:16 Should we schedule de-loads 01:02:29 Recommendations for sport climbers without rope access 01:07:18 How to train endurance to come back during outdoor season 01:15:45 Making room for board climbing training
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