509. Ampersand Spirits: When a Master Distiller Calls His Own Series a House of Curiosities

Todd Ritter flies solo as host this week on The Bourbon Road, welcoming Chip Tate — Master Distiller of Innovation for Ampersand Spirits (a Foley Family Spirits project) — for a deep dive into one of the most inventive new whiskey series to hit shelves. Chip brings his decades of distilling philosophy, his background founding Balcones Distillery in Texas, and his stint crafting copper pot stills, all to bear on a four-expression lineup that challenges every assumption about what American whiskey can be. From a nine-year-old neutral grain spirit aged in ex-cognac barrels to a six-way wine barrel finish on a high-malt bourbon, every pour here tells a story of deliberate curiosity. On the Tasting Mat: - Ampersand Vinea: A 92-proof blend of 75% rye whiskey and 25% neutral grain spirit that spent over nine years in ex-cognac barrels — a happy accident born when barrels bought in France in 2015 for another project were kept wet and simply never emptied. The result is thin in body but surprisingly aromatic, with grapevine, cognac-cask fruit esters, and a firm French-oak tannin structure that recalls aged Scottish grain whiskey. Non-chill filtered. *(00:01:28)* - Ampersand Malice: Also at 92 proof and non-chill filtered, Malice blends 51% rye whiskey with 49% Calvados (French apple brandy) into a cross-category spirit that Chip frames as a chef sourcing ingredients from two different farms. The nose erupts with apple-cinnamon potpourri; the palate delivers stewed apple, warming rye spice, and a richness that proves Calvados can stand toe-to-toe with a robust rye. MSRP $59.99. *(00:13:07)* - Ampersand Opumus (Batch 1 — 116.6 proof): The crown jewel of the lineup, Opumus starts with 15-year-old Kentucky straight bourbon (sourced from Wild Turkey) that Chip found overly tannic on its own, then finishes it in Tokaji wine barrels for approximately one year per batch. At cask strength near 58.3% ABV, this is a dramatic whiskey: deep floral and juicy-fruit aromatics, stewed raisin, leather, tobacco, and a sweetness drawn from the mold-ripened Tokaji. Limited to roughly 55 barrels per release; when it's gone, it's gone. *(00:30:35)* - Gambit No. 6: Bottled at 92 proof (46% ABV) and non-chill filtered, Gambit begins with a six-year-old high-malt bourbon that first passes through stripped-and-re-toasted Chardonnay barrels before being split into four finishing streams — Oloroso Sherry, Muscatel, Tokaji, and Laird's apple brandy barrels — where it rests for 18-plus months. The resulting blend is deliberately Bordeaux-like in concept: the Chardonnay provides structure and brightness, the Oloroso brings nuttiness, the Tokaji adds juiciness, and the apple brandy ties every fruit note together. Soft, integrated, and sessionable at its proof. MSRP approximately $65. *(00:41:01)* Chip Tate is one of the most analytically minded distillers working in American craft spirits today, and this conversation makes that abundantly clear. Whether he's explaining why 46% ABV is the floor for non-chill filtration, drawing parallels between broken hollandaise and a misproofed blend, or describing how he shepherds hundreds of individual barrels through a six-way finish, his precision is matched only by his genuine love for the unexpected. Listeners who want to track down these bottles can find them through Southern Glazers distribution in most markets, or via direct-to-consumer options on the Ampersand and Gambit websites. A teaser for an upcoming fifth Ampersand release — described only as "a brother from another mother" to Opumus — should have fans of that expression paying close attention to Chip's Instagram at @ChipTateWhiskey.