All the things I've learned about surfing in 15+ years as a perpetual beginner

This week, it's my birthday—and the perfect excuse to look back on nearly two decades of surfing as a self-proclaimed perpetual beginner. From the first wobbly pop-up in Wales to countless sessions in California, I'm sharing everything I've learned (and unlearned) over 17 years chasing waves. We'll talk about: Why taking a surf sabbatical might cost you more than you think The myth of the "real surfer" and why foamies deserve your respect Buying gear as a procrastination crutch The creeping fear that comes from surfing less and less The joy, heartbreak, and hard-earned wisdom of staying in the lineup—no matter how slowly you progress If you've ever felt stuck between beginner and intermediate—or wondered whether you'll ever really feel like a surfer—this one's for you.