Bandol

Like a pair of latter day Joris-Karl Huysmans, Jason and David take a trip to the Côte d'Azur, without actually leaving Jason's kitchen table and with nothing but a row of wheelie bins to excite their febrile imaginations, ensconce themselves amongst the yachty folk of the Riviera. Basking in the balmy heat of ever-present virtual sunshine, they sip three fine offerings from Laurent Bunan et Famille at Mas de la Rouvière: a wonderful, herby white made from pure Clairette grapes, that has Jason searing tuna with his mind's eye alone; a trendily de riqueur, coral pink and crustacea-friendly rosé and a silky smooth, long-legged, berry-scented red. Made with the region's inimitable Mourvèdre grape, it's the smartest thing to quaff with garlic studded, slow-roasted lamb. Santé!