Behind the Scenes with Mary Howard: Fashion's Master Set Designer

Jill is joined by Mary Howard, a renowned set and production designer celebrated for crafting captivating, detailed environments for top fashion photographers. Mary traces her unconventional path from junior tennis player and art student in New Orleans to working alongside industry legends like Annie Leibovitz, Steven Meisel, and Steven Klein. She reveals her creative methodology for bringing conceptual visions to life in three dimensions, emphasizing how every small element matters in her designs. Mary reflects on formative experiences building elaborate Mardi Gras floats and working on the Macy's Thanksgiving Parade, which developed her production expertise. She recounts standout Vogue projects including the Edith Wharton series, Romeo and Juliet shoot, and a 'Shape of Water'-inspired shoot featuring Mia Goth, describing the complexities of coordinating intricate sets alongside animals and props. Looking ahead, Mary weighs in on how AI might reshape set design while offering guidance to newcomers in the field, stressing the value of flexibility, modesty, and genuine enthusiasm for the craft. Follow on Instagram and Threads at @goingrogue.podcast and @jilldemling Follow on Bluesky Follow on TikTok Send us your questions or comments by calling us at 518-21-ROGUE Going Rogue is produced by Jill Demling and Maddie Kelly, who also serves as our social media director. Matty Rosenberg is the executive producer Be sure to follow Going Rogue on your favorite podcast platform. Going Rogue is part of the Radio Free Rhinecliff media network.