Bethany Budde-Cohen – SqWires

On this episode of The Sauce Podcast, host Lauren sits down with Bethany Budde-Cohen — owner of SqWires Restaurant & Market — to celebrate 25 years of one of Lafayette Square’s most beloved dining destinations and the story behind its lasting success.Bethany shares how she transformed a 130-year-old wire factory into a warm, character-filled restaurant, and the challenges that came with it — from construction setbacks and a major fire to navigating recessions and a global pandemic. Through it all, SqWires has remained rooted in its identity: elevated Midwestern comfort food, local sourcing, and a deep connection to the neighborhood.They talk about what’s kept SqWires thriving for over two decades, including house-smoked staples, a strong relationship with local farmers, and a commitment to consistency while still evolving with the times. Bethany also dives into the return and reinvention of the market concept during COVID, and how it’s become a curated, community-focused space for fresh, local goods.Beyond the food, the conversation highlights the importance of family in the business — including Bethany’s daughter stepping into a leadership role — and what it means to grow something that’s truly part of the fabric of St. Louis.From historic spaces to homemade herbs, from resilience to reinvention — this episode is all about building something that lasts.In this episode: The story behind SqWires Restaurant & Market  Transforming a historic wire factory into a restaurant  Overcoming a fire, delays, and economic challenges  What defines “elevated Midwestern” cuisine  House-smoked meats, brunch staples, and menu favorites  Sourcing local ingredients and working with farmers  The return and evolution of the SqWires market  Adapting through COVID and changing customer needs  Running a family business with the next generation  Why Lafayette Square is such a special community