Careers in Antique Jewellery: How the Trade Works

Have you ever picked up a piece of antique jewelry and wondered how it got there? Behind every brooch, ring, or sapphire in a boutique window is a network of specialists: historians, gemologists, goldsmiths, appraisers, lapidaries, and dealers, each playing a role in the journey from discovery to display case. In this episode, Matthew Weldon of Courtville Antiques breaks down the ecosystem of the antique jewelry trade, explaining who does what, how the roles connect, and what a typical week actually looks like across the industry. Whether you already work in the trade or are considering entering it, this episode offers a candid guide to the many career paths within antique jewelry. Drawing on his own background, from studying gemology at the GIA to running Courtville and working alongside his family’s auction house, Matthew gives an honest picture of each role’s rewards and risks. From spotting overlooked treasures to the tension of handing a six-carat Burma sapphire to a lapidary, the episode makes the case that there is a place in this business for many different skill sets. Key Takeaways • Antique jewelry passes through many hands before reaching a buyer, often involving researchers, gemologists, appraisers, goldsmiths, and dealers. • Gemologists identify and assess stones scientifically, while appraisers combine those findings with market data to produce legal valuations for insurance, probate, or resale. • Skilled lapidaries are increasingly rare, creating challenges for businesses dealing with valuable antique stones. • Auctions and private sales operate differently: auctions are strictly “as is,” while private dealers are bound by consumer protections and guarantees. • Content creation has become a legitimate route into the industry, with creators and journalists building careers around shows, auctions, and trade coverage. • Matthew’s philosophy on consignment is simple: if you would not buy a piece yourself, you should not expect someone else to. Quotes “On average here in Courtville, I would say we would look at between three and four thousand pieces of jewelry a week... How many pieces do we buy? On average, I'd say we're buying one to two percent of the pieces that we'd see.” — 27:23 “If you lose a piece of antique jewelry, you might have to source lots of different antique stones... You'll also have to get a jeweller to hand make the piece.” — 8:38 “Never a more accurate phrase than measure twice, cut once.” — 22:54 Resources • GIA (Gemological Institute of America) • Gem-A, London • Wartsky’s, London • Courtville Antiques — www.courtville.ie • Miami Beach Antique Show • Jewelry, Objects and Antique Show, New York • Galerie Apollon, The Louvre • The Smithsonian • The V&A • Musée des Arts Modernes, Paris • L’École Van Cleef & Arpels Socials & Contact Instagram: @gempursuitpod Instagram: @courtvilleantiques TikTok: @matthew.weldon Email: [email protected] Selected Timestamps (1:56) Why careers in antique jewelry matter (4:48) Gemologist (8:00) Types of valuation (14:19) Goldsmith and restoration (18:45) Lapidary and diamond cutter (26:50) Antique jewelry dealer (32:05) Auctions vs private market (40:50) Content creator and jewelry journalist (44:10) Museum and curatorial roles (45:16) Jewelry designer www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck