Châteauneuf Du Pape

In the very teeth of winter, Jason and David battle all the way to the wine cellar in search of bottled sunshine; to Châteauneuf Du Pape, in fact, historical home to the Avignon Popes in exile, a recent ruin, some very big pebbles and thirteen varieties of grape, all of which are permitted into a single bottle of France’s finest and first appellation contrôlée wine. First up is a lovely, limpid, 2017 Domaine Du Père Caboche. A relative rarity, only 7% of Châteauneuf production is given over to white wine and this particular offering has so much fruit, Jason can even taste the wax on the lemons. It wears its 13.5 ABV lightly, too. At last, our plucky pair find themselves warming to a 2016 red from the same estate. Herby and briary with almost fondant tannins, Jason has only to say the word ‘daube’ and David is transported back in time to Provence and a memorably close encounter with a dish of aubergines. After a brief attempt to out-daube one another, it’s time for J and D to test the effects of age on a mature C De P in the form of a Domaine Saint Gayan's 2011 vintage. Some say that grenache doesn’t age well in the bottle, but not so the grapes in this gem of a wine. It would’ve lain down for another three years or more if only Jason and David hadn’t had other plans for it.