EP 109: Martin Keller — How to Train on Rock, Your Subconscious Brain, and Lessons from 150+ Days on a Boulder

Martin Keller is a Swiss boulderer, climbing coach, and teacher, and is known for his long-term dedication to his bouldering projects. We talked about spending 150+ days projecting his FA of ‘Ninja Skills Sit’ V15/16, how to change our brain chemistry, how Martin trains on his outdoor projects, and how changing his mindset unlocked his hardest climbs.Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott DonahueBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/martin-kellerNuggets:0:08:13 – Martin’s “mini-epic” on ‘Ninja Skills Sit’ V15/160:14:02 – Finding inspiration in a project0:17:55 – Martin’s first bouldering trip, and being a slow learner0:23:28 – Preferring really cool projects to just sending another random climb, and asking what people like most about climbing0:25:34 – Being able to jump up a grade when you find something that fits you0:28:13 – Turning something ugly into something gracefully, and turning the impossible into something possible0:35:03 – Do whatever resonates with you, and climbing lots of new things on trips0:38:13 – Why willpower isn’t enough, and making your brain like what you do0:41:28 – Your brain wants you to do easy things, and how to trick your unconscious into wanting to train0:46:00 – How to get rid of cognitive friction, and tricks to make your brain want to go training0:51:39 – How to use breathwork to ramp up the nervous system for training0:54:20 – Long term vs short term stress0:58:16 – Using light to upregulate the nervous system, and dimming lights before sleep1:02:23 – How body temperature affects sleep, and avoiding screen time in the evening1:03:59 – Food before bed, and including carbs with dinner to help with sleep1:06:15 – What Martin does on his project when the conditions are bad, how he “trains” on his projects, and setting mini-goals1:16:40 – The Russian mindset, why more isn’t always better, and the difference between us and the pros1:20:52 – Why active rest days are important, why you should get a dog, and why doing good things for your climbing is also good for your life1:26:13 – Opportunity costs, choosing priorities, and being flexible with your training1:29:04 – Martin’s strategy for hard power endurance boulders, and bringing the sections of the boulder down to 80% effort (or 8 RPE)1:36:13 – Martin’s latest project on the Highlander boulder1:37:41 – Key Takeaway: Ask yourself what you really like about climbing and bouldering, and being proud of yourself for building a life around climbing1:39:48 – Letting out the steam1:42:32 – Why collecting excuses (explanations) can be helpful1:45:13 – Martin’s story about berating himself on Ninja Skills Sit, and learning how to speak more kindly to yourself1:51:13 – The example of spilling water on your laptop, and talking to yourself like you would talk to a friend1:55:43 – Martin’s hamstring injury, sunk costs, and how irrational our brains actually are2:02:01 – Figuring out what is important for yourself, and magic bullets2:05:43 – Being the first one to bring a battery-powered van to the boulders2:07:23 – How changing his mindset has helped Martin climb all of his hardest boulders after age 402:13:13 – The benefits of cold showers, and connecting dopamine to actions2:20:16 – Patron question from Nicole: How does Martin deal with making negative progress on projects? When does he walk away?2:36:05 – The pressure we create for ourselves2:41:07 – How to connect with Martin2:43:18 – Final words