EP 198: Travis Tameirao — The Day His Life Changed Forever, Climbing V10+ With an Artificial Knee, and Taking the Wheel

Travis Tameirao is a 33-year-old from Rhode Island. On August 13, 2018, his life changed in a freak accident in the climbing gym. Three years and a dozen surgeries later, Travis miraculously returned to climbing and sent his first V10 and V11. We talked about his accident, getting a full knee replacement, how he made a full recovery, his incredible wife Katie, why he swims four times per week, treating yourself like you have the V17 gene, taking responsibility for your life, the interplay of luck and hard work, and much more.Support the Access Fund!accessfund.org/protectBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/travis-tameiraoNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:07:14 – Having a son at 19, semi-pro boxing and bartending to make ends meet, and getting into climbing0:13:31 – Maintaining his own identity once he became a dad0:15:40 – Getting obsessed with climbing, and being reckless out of ignorance0:24:51 – The full story of Travis’ accident on August 13th, 20180:35:20 – Getting his knee reconstructed in December 2019, and losing his Tibial Plateau0:38:31 – The possibility of amputation, and choosing an experimental procedure0:44:18 – Living in constant pain, surgery as a trauma, and holding onto hope0:47:21 – Having a full knee replacement, and feeling like he was given a death sentence0:49:52 – The limitations of Western medicine0:51:55 – Waking up without pain0:53:56 – The gift of walking, and reclaiming his life0:56:55 – Working on regaining his range of motion, and reconnecting with climbing1:05:05 – Getting hurt again sport climbing in Rumney1:09:39 – Losing friends and community during his recovery, and proposing to his wife Katie1:17:40 – The first time he asked Katie out1:20:57 – Gratitude for Katie, and being with a partner through the hard times1:23:41 – Hiking around Mont Blanc on their honeymoon1:26:39 – Focusing on work while he was recovering, and appreciation for the support1:27:40 – Regaining his full range of motion, and climbing his first V10 outside1:31:42 – Mr. Miyagi and the pistol squat1:33:04 – Climbing his first V11, leaving areas better than you found them, and finding boulders in Rhode Island1:36:22 – “Don’t get injured”, learning how to fall, and being unsure of the takeaway1:38:33 – The guy in the wheelchair, and wondering if he is blowing his second chance1:43:01 – Choosing to live a rich and passionate life, the fountain of youth, and facing mortality1:48:10 – A backlog of games and books, and wanting to live forever1:54:19 – Accepting support from Katie, hard conversations, and the transition in their relationship after his recovery2:03:08 – Mothers and empty nests, Travis’ parents relationship, and the feeling of firsts2:07:45 – What climbing means to Travis now, and why Travis swims 4 days per week2:10:46 – Long-term climbing goals, and sponsoring himself2:14:43 – Growing up a block away from his wife, and all of the things climbing has brought him2:17:24 – Treating yourself like you have the V17 gene2:19:15 – How Travis made a full recovery when many others didn’t, drawing inspiration from anime, and being the main character in your own story2:26:43 – Taking the wheel, and advocating for yourself2:32:14 – Sharing his story, and being a resource2:36:46 – Kind words about the podcast2:39:58 – Luck and hard work2:42:26 – More kind words2:45:32 – Iontophoresis2:47:01 – Wrap up and Travis’ phone number