EP 256: Stian Christophersen Returns — Training Smarter, Pulley Rehab, & Japanese Precision: Secrets to Climbing Stronger & Healthier

Stian Christophersen is a physiotherapist, coach, author, and world-class climber. He returns to the podcast to discuss his new book about managing injuries. We talked about why only two days of hard climbing per week is enough to get stronger, the Japanese method for building technique, load management, how to rehab a ruptured pulley, why optimist is important for recovery, training for tweaky holds and moves, growth plate injuries, mindset tips, and much more.Buy Stian's Book:adventurebooks.com/collections/climbing-books-guidebooks/products/the-climbing-bible-managing-injuriesRúngne:rungne.info/nugget👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from RúngneUse code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.The NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Tindeq:tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stian-christophersen-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:09) – Stian’s finger injury, & why medical professionals are cautious(00:07:40) – Practicing board climbing(00:11:55) – Outline of topics(00:15:18) – Most common climbing injuries(00:18:13) – Rules for preventing injuries(00:20:39) – How much hard climbing is reasonable(00:29:13) – Lifting weights(00:31:04) – The Japanese approach(00:43:43) – Finger training to prevent finger injuries(00:52:05) – How frequently should we change our finger training protocols?(00:56:01) – Cluster sets, & best pulling exercises to prevent shoulder injuries(00:59:25) – When to do extra strength training(01:01:47) – Sleep, nutrition, stress, & identity(01:06:45) – Regaining confidence after injury(01:09:45) – Optimism & discovery(01:20:42) – Is there an ideal way to rehab pulley injuries?(01:25:52) – How to rehab pulley injuries(01:35:14) – Loading & adapting from within(01:43:50) – The good news with pulley injuries(01:45:59) – Is surgery ever necessary for pulley injuries?(01:48:20) – How to reintroduce climbing after a pulley injury(01:51:20) – Reintroducing crimps & hard climbing(01:53:59) – Preparing for tweaky holds(02:01:08) – Individual finger training(02:05:57) – Training for hard shoulder moves(02:07:20) – Growth plate injuries(02:10:58) – Injections for finger pain(02:13:20) – Mindset tips(02:16:06) – Tall climbers, tendon strength, & talent(02:20:49) – Where to buy Stian’s new book