EP 70: Steve Maisch — How to Structure a Bouldering Trip, the 85% Rule, and Hueco Debrief

Steve Maisch is a training legend and has been pursuing improvement in rock climbing for more than two decades. Jon Glassberg credits Steve’s training methodology for his recent send of ‘The Nest’ V15. We talked about Steve’s background in climbing and how he became interested in training, how he helped me add structure to my Hueco bouldering trip, and the 85% rule.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steve-maischNuggets:5:10 – Ballet class6:20 – Steve’s beginnings in climbing, grad school, training breakthroughs, and first bad finger injury13:00 – Becoming interested in quantifying training, and observing the elites16:50 – How Steve and I connected, the Hueco training plan idea, and addressing individual needs in training 23:38 – Climbing strength26:33 – Underperforming vs overperforming your finger strength28:53 – The bouldering pyramid 31:40 – The 85% rule, and the strength sweet spot46:45 – Train your weaknesses and perform in your strengths, and battling Free Willy51:50 – Breakdown of the Hueco training plan, and antagonist training59:46 – Scapular lock-offs1:05:06 – How much we should be climbing, and making sense of different climbing schedules1:11:25 – Climb more days, or higher intensity?1:17:38 – Reconciling Daniel on Return of the Sleepwalker1:20:48 – Efficiency and muscle memory1:22:18 – The deload week, and getting stronger when we rest1:26:18 – The key elements of the boulder pyramid 1:29:16 – How to build up the pyramid season after season1:31:43 – How to maintain bouldering power during a sport climbing phase1:34:20 – Whether to maintain endurance during a boulder phase 1:38:26 – Gaining endurance through increasing strength1:40:06 – The plus/minus (+/-) system1:49:10 – Training on the boards, and designing different workouts  2:00:16 – Balancing training and performing2:06:51 – The Remond food bank2:13:14 – Injuries, Steve’s climbing goals, and rebuilding his pyramid2:19:55 – Preventing injuries, a foundation of lifting, and the benefit of building muscle in the right places2:26:10 – Gratitude