EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1) — TV Weather, Campusing vs. Hangboarding, and How to Train Your Core

Eric Hörst is the author of the international bestselling book Training for Climbing and the founder of PhysiVantage. We talked about his dual career as a meteorologist and climbing coach, early route development, how training has evolved, the roles of campusing vs. hangboarding in improving finger strength, why coaching is like 3D chess, and how to train your core.Discount code: “NUGGET15” for 15% off of full-priced PhysiVantage productsSupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-part-1Nuggets:6:01 – Weatherman11:31 – Snowstorms, solving complex puzzles, and similarities between forecasting weather and training for climbing15:18 – The best send conditions17:38 – TV weather and developing routes in the New River Gorge18:56 – Eric’s first day of climbing21:15 – Patron Question from Max (Eric’s history climbing in PA, and early development at the New)24:29 – Patron Question from Adriel (the early days at the New River Gorge)27:27 – Favorite first ascents from the New 28:32 – Embracing bolting and sport climbing34:17 – The style of bolting in the 90s, becoming a student of climbing, and Eric’s first training articles38:24 – The training paradigm in the 80s (“climber’s don’t train”)40:56 – Early training experiments, wooden blocks on the rafters, pull-ups for slab climbing, and the revolution of climbing gyms47:42 – The modern “weekend warrior”49:13 – Early intuitive training methodologies, and the “shotgun approach” to training56:17 – Applying the 80/20 rule to training1:00:21 – The mental side of climbing, and not getting too focused on one training implement1:07:53 – Patron Question from Matt (the dos and don’ts of hiring a coach)1:12:33 – A new paradigm in connective tissue training1:16:40 – The different effects of hangboarding vs. campusing on finger tendons1:24:33 – How to combine hangboarding and campus boarding to balance performance and resiliency1:29:53 – Patron Question from Liam (benefits of linear and non-linear programs)1:34:59 – End range strength, and the 3D chess of coaching1:41:42 – Core strength, and limiting belief systems1:47:05 – Deadlifting1:52:43 – Weighted planks1:54:31 – Deadlifting + bouldering with small footholds1:59:16 – Reinventing your training, and sticking with things long enough to see if they work