EP 73: Kyle O’Meara — Favorite First Ascents, Experience vs. Strength, and Sharing the Love of Climbing

Kyle O’Meara is a high-level boulderer, route climber, and successful climbing coach. He’s a total lifer. We talked about his early climbing and development in the PNW, some of his favorite first ascents, outdoor bouldering vs. indoor training, climbing and life goals, discovering coaching, leading by example, and sharing the love of climbing with his team.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kyle-omearaNuggets:3:47 – Breakfast, day-old pastries, and experimenting with diet7:55 – Food diary, sleep, and eating enough 15:42 – Early days in Leavenworth19:32 – How Kyle started climbing, Merrimore Park, and planting the seed of coaching26:46 – ‘Rampage’, first Leavenworth days, and Squamish32:36 – Transitioning into sport climbing, his first 5.13,  37:16 – Kyle’s “Best of the best” list, and grading everything in Index grades42:12 – ‘Crown Jewel’56:01 – Outdoor bouldering vs. indoor bouldering/training, and trying to beat the system1:01:01 – Developing boulders by default and not by design, epics in Yosemite, and window cleaning1:09:33 – Best of the best boulders in Yosemite1:12:29 – Moving to Tahoe, discovering coaching, and Kyle’s path to improvement1:18:43 – What Kyle wishes he had done differently in the past regarding training, and perfecting the art of projecting1:24:01 – Climbing and life goals1:27:14 – Experience over strength1:28:41 – ‘Lex Luthor’, moving to Salt Lake, and coaching at Momentum1:36:45 – Leading by example1:41:17 – Themes among successful kids that Kyle has coached, and the contrast between Nathanial Coleman and Dalton Bunker1:46:25 – Staying above the line, and climbing frequency1:48:22 – Spending more days trying climbs, and how Kyle has integrated training1:52:07 – ‘The All-Around Routine’, and committing to a training cycle for the first time2:11:27 – Patron Question from Nolen: How does Kyle balance his performance in sport climbing vs. bouldering?2:16:54 – The power of the psych, and following your motivation2:20:26 – Patron Question from Lena: Top three footwork drills for kidlets?2:25:50 – Patron Question from Evan: When is Kyle (The Voice) going to record children’s books or guided meditation?2:30:34 – Gratitude