EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism

John Long is an American rock climber and author, and one of the original “Stonemasters”. We talked about his early climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide Rock, life in Yosemite in the early 70s, climbing The Nose in a day with Bridwell and Westbay, most humbling moments, John’s new book Icarus Syndrome, and his recent article about alcoholism and drug abuse in climbing.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/john-longNuggets:3:33 – Nose picking, John’s nickname “Largo”, growing up in Indio CA, and being a part of two worlds6:56 – The state of climbing in 1953, John’s early sports, white water rafting, and hearing stories about climbing10:37 – Getting hooked on climbing12:07 – Climbing at Tahquitz Rock in 1971, and jumping on board with new-age climbing17:47 – Paisano Overhang30:23 – Hangover38:43 – Life in Yosemite in the 70s, and the rise of free climbing47:04 –  Camp 4 as a Babylon of rogues and boys club49:28 – Jim Bridwell54:23 – The Nose in a day59:58 – Question from Ron: The bivy at the base of the Gold Wall.1:04:08 – The cafeteria 1:06:54 – The Bob Lock Memorial Route1:13:11 – Transitioning away from being “Joe Climber”1:15:18 – Patron Question from Logan: Most humbling climbing moment?1:19:12 – The present vs. the past, and gravity as the great leveler1:21:56 – Question from Lena: What is more valuable in climbing, being a jack of all trades or a master of one?1:24:05 – Writing, Hollywood, and Rogue’s Babylon1:30:19 – John’s writing practice1:32:01 – Alcoholism and substance abuse 1:45:01 – Icarus Syndrome1:53:03 – Gifts and wrinkles1:54:01 – Gratitude