Excel For CAD?, Blade Wobble?, Pigmented Finish, and MORE!!!

This Episodes Questions Brians Questions Hi guys. I've listened to every episode of the podcast and some of them more than once. Really appreciate all of the insights you give. It makes my commute much more fun and I've learned a ton! This question is primarily for Brian. I've heard you all poke fun at him for using Excel to plan his projects on multiple occasions. I'm very curious to learn more about how he accomplishes this. I understand that he makes each cell square and draws, but maybe he could give us a little tutorial. What cell height and width does he use? What does each cell represent (an inch, six inches, a foot?). Any other of the steps you use would be super helpful. I'm planning on a built-in set of cabinets coming up and I thought I'd give your method a shot. Pete Hello Guys I am looking into getting a router table. Based on your experience which would be a better option. A full size stand alone router table or a router table insert for my table saw. I have plenty of space and I am looking to spend around $600 to $700. Is a router lift an important add on. Thanks for all the knowledge you all give and keep that PMA (positive mental attitude) going. Thanks Korey from Independence, KY Guys Questions Gentlemen I listen to every podcast and invariably learn something from your answers to the questions.  Keep up the great work. I have a Canadian made 14 inch General thickness planer that is about 40 years old and it has been working well and reliably over the years.  Lately I noticed that one edge of a full width (14 inch) board is about .7 mm (28/1000 inch)thicker when compared to the other.  It may have always done this but I am edge jointing  some wide boards into panels and the variation in thickness means I have to hand plane the joints.  There is no way to adjust the base to make it parallel to the cutter head.  I almost always use a sled so I could adjust it to offset the inequality.  My question is am I being a bit too fussy with the small difference?  Would you accept this level of planing inaccuracy when working in your own shop? Bob Vergette, Pender Island BC, Canada Here is my next question.  I am making a shadowbox out of walnut. I want to put brass splines on the corners.  I built a spline jig and I purchased a new CMT 201.024.10 Industrial Ripping Saw Blade, 10-Inch. x 24 Teeth FTG Grind with 5/8-Inch. Bore, PTFE Coating.  This blade measures 1/8 with calipers across two of the carbide tips. However the cut comes in at 5/32. The brass I purchased is exactly 1/8”   This leaves very small but noticeable gap.  I've also tried with another blade and got the same results. What suggestions or tips you may have to get that saw kerf to 1/8 inch?  I may next try a slightly larger thickness of brass and file/sand it down but that will be more work. I hate to say this but guys on Youtube make it look easy and have no gaps, but don't provide the tips and how they got such tight fits. Thanks in advance! Dudley @ Pappys Hangar Huys Questions Gents, what a great podcast! I love the format, the focus on answering questions, and the valuable information. I especially like hearing Guy's perspectives who's both a pro and a hobbyist. Thanks and keep it up. I've been woodworking as a hobbyist for about 50 years - yes I'm older than Guy but not dying anytime soon thanks to my Sawstop - but just now getting into spray finishing. I have heard Guy talk numerous times about using pigmented water based conversion varnish. I have an upcoming project involving kitchen cabinet door panels that need to be finished to match the existing which is conversion varnish tinted to match Benjamin Moore Linen White. Because I have also heard Guy saying he gets his finishes from Target Coatings, I contacted them but was told they do not tint their conversion varnish and I would need to tint it myself. Their suggestion though is to apply their pigmented water based lacquer for the color match, and then coat that with their polycarbonate urethane for durability comparable to the conversion varnish. That two-step process sounds cumbersome compared to one step conversion varnish. So the question is do you get your pigmented conversion varnish elsewhere? Do you get it at Target coatings and have it tinted locally? Tint it yourself? Thanks for your advice. John My grandparents had a marquetry landscape picture hanging on the wall of their house for years when I was kid.  After they passed, one of my uncles received the picture as part of their inheritance.  I decided to try to make my own version of this picture as the chalet had a few discrepancies in it.  The picture was of a man walking down a winding path between a chalet and a couple of trees and mountains in the background.  I have tried to use 1/16" veneer but it seems prone to tearing/chipping when I use my Dewalt scroll saw.   I have tried several different styles of blades with no success.   I have also had some difficulties getting the jigsaw pieces, so to speak, to fit closely together. It seems if I remove a little from one side of a piece then it alters another side.  I have let's say gone through a bit of extra veneer.  What suggestions would you make so that the veneer doesn't tear/chip out?  Is there a better way to cut the pieces? Would you use a different thickness or completely go away from the veneer to something else?  Lastly, what techniques can you offer up to get the pieces to fit snugly given the sometimes difficult shapes? Jim