EXPERT | Rob Gray on How We Learn to Move and the Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)

Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability – Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics – and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move. ____________________ EXPLORE FURTHER Our entire movement skills resource library Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode Follow Rob on Instagram Check out The Perception & Action Podcast Check out Rob's books: How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship ____________________ SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. ____________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website. ____________________ CHAPTERS (0:00) Intro (2:00) Guest Introduction (2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories (7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides (9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods (11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing (18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards (20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach (23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching (25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example (28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing (30:23) Perception and Action Coupling (33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders (35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit? (37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill (40:45) Wrap Up