Gatlinburg or Nothing

For half the South, there's no debate: it's Gatlinburg or nothing. This week we make the great Southern pilgrimage up to G-Berg — Sevier County, Tennessee, a.k.a. the Smokies, a.k.a. the only vacation some families have ever taken. We get into all of it: the saltwater taffy and the fudge, the moonshine that took over the strip, the airbrush tees and glow-in-the-dark mini golf, the great debate over which pancake house actually wins, and whether you can really skip the national park (you can't). We argue about Cades Cove bear jams, the dinner shows, the aquarium, and the proper way to ride the chairlift up the mountain.