EPISODE · May 15, 2026 · 57 MIN
Hadrian's Wall, Part III: Hiking the Crags (Sewingshields to Birdoswald)
from Have Toga, Will Travel: Exploring Greece and Rome, Ancient and Modern
Fabulous vistas and amazing artifacts await eager hikers along the central section of Hadrian’s Wall Path. Listen as Emily and Cam chat about them all in this installment of their series on the Wall. Get ready for Roman Army re-enactors, the world’s oldest surviving document written by a woman, and the tree that stole the show from Kevin Costner and Morgan Freeman—but watch out for the cheesecake!Visit our homepage to subscribe, to find us on social media, and to contact us by email:https://havetogawilltravel.com----------00:11 - Introduction01:19 - Dialects: Cumbrian and Geordie02:05 - What's a dialect, anyway?02:26 - The Cumbrian Dialect04:18 - The Geordie Dialect05:30 - Sewingshields Crag06:38 - Views of the North Ditch07:40 - Preserved lengths of Wall along the Great Whin Sill09:31 - The summit of Sewingshields, gale warnings, and Joe the Dog13:02 - Housesteads Roman Fort13:39 - History, layout, and garrison of Vercovicium14:51 - Exploring Housesteads16:52 - The Ermine Street Guard: a modern Roman Legion19:51 - Hotbank and Highshields20:27 - The Clayton Wall21:22 - Milecastle 37 and its impressive North Gate22:51 - Sycamore Gap23:27 - The Sycamore that starred in Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves25:07 - The senseless destruction of the tree (and some original Roman masonry)26:33 - Twice Brewed and Vindolanda26:44 - The Twice Brewed Inn: beds and beer!27:33 - Vindolanda and its history: the forts of the Stanegate29:08 - Exploring Vindolanda (and practicing your Latin!)29:57 - Vindolanda's anoxic soil and archaeological treasures31:17 - The Vindolanda Tablets: Sulpicia Lepidina receives a birthday party invitation, and Maculus wants beer!35:31 - Peel Crags to Walltown Crags36:51 - The Peel Crags and Castle Nick (or Milecastle 39)38:10 - The literal high point of the trail: Windshields Crag38:52 - Views of the Vallum40:16 - An encounter with a real-life snooty professor41:52 - The Carvoran Roman Army Museum, and some cool archaeology45:26 - The Irthing River Valley46:18 - Thirwall Castle and plundered wallstone47:01 - The Roman bridge at Willowford47:41 - Milecastle 49 and the junction of the turf and stone Walls48:24 - The walk to Birdoswald: Centurion Stones and Apotropaic Stones49:20 - Birdoswald Roman Fort49:36 - The history of Banna and its residents50:19 - Exploring Birdoswald and points nearby51:26 - Cocidius: a “Romanized” Celtic war god52:41 - Birdoswald's afterlife: warbands, reivers and Henry Norman55:19 - A misadventure with English cheesecake56:05 - Wrap-up
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Hadrian's Wall, Part III: Hiking the Crags (Sewingshields to Birdoswald)
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