Hadrian’s Wall, Part IV: Walking from Birdoswald to Bowness-on-Solway episode artwork

EPISODE · Jun 1, 2026 · 59 MIN

Hadrian’s Wall, Part IV: Walking from Birdoswald to Bowness-on-Solway

from Have Toga, Will Travel: Exploring Greece and Rome, Ancient and Modern

Emily and Cam wrap up their series on hiking Hadrian’s Wall Path with a discussion of the final 31 miles of the Wall. Follow along as they explore medieval monuments made of wallstone, find themselves treed by some cows, and are regaled with tales of cannibals (human and otherwise!).Visit our homepage to subscribe, to find us on social media, and to contact us by email:https://havetogawilltravel.comRead the first post in our series of blog posts on Hadrian’s Wall here:Hiking Hadrian’s Wall, Part IIf you’re interested in hiking the Wall, you’ll find the following resources helpful:Walking Hadrian’s Wall Path, by Mark Richards (Cicerone Press)Hadrian’s Wall Path, by Anthony Burton (National Trails Official Guidebook)Harvey Maps, Map of Hadrian’s Wall PathFinally, you’ll find the rest of the episodes in this series at the following links:Hadrian’s Wall, Part I: The Romans in Britain and the Imperial FrontierHadrian’s Wall, Part II: Walking from Wallsend to CarrawburghHadrian’s Wall, Part III: Hiking the Crags (Sewingshields to Birdoswald)----------00:11 - Introduction00:24 - Episode overview01:11 - Housekeeping and Summer vacation02:41 - Birdoswald to Haytongate03:16 - The character of the trail and the last visible elements of the Wall05:44 - Honesty Boxes and the Haytongate Hut06:56 - Lanercost Priory07:22 - A priory built of wallstone: the history of Lanercost10:52 - Exploring Lanercost (and our encounter with Max)12:24 - Haytongate to Carlisle12:46 - An unpleasant encounter with cows14:37 - “Where’s the Wall,” or the perils of starting in the west15:55 - Crosby on Eden, haggis, and black pudding17:59 - The Wall at the River Eden: Uxelodunum and Milecastle 6618:27 - Carlisle18:56 - Carlisle Castle: Luguvalium becomes the old Norman keep21:31 - Richard III, Mary Queen of Scots, and the Jacobites: Carlisle Castle’s long history24:52 - Another encounter with Max27:00 - Carlisle Cathedral (and more plundered wallstone)28:47 - Carlisle’s Guildhall30:06 - Misadventures in Carlisle dining31:46 - Carlisle to Bowness on Solway32:14 - Burgh by Sands: Aballava, Africans in Roman Britain, and Edward I’s unpleasant bout with dysentery34:53 - The Tidal Flats: Dykesfield, Drumburgh, and the dangers of high tide!37:45 - Bowness on Solway and a gathering at Fort Maia: Billy No-Mates and a man obsessed with cannibals!43:02 - Logistics of the Hike43:07 - Where to begin? In the west at Bowness, or in the east at Newcastle?45:38 - Resources for planning: books and maps47:10 - Lodging, adventure companies, luggage, and the AD 122 bus50:53 - Food: full English breakfasts and pub fare53:16 - Tips for the trail: rain, sunburn, and blisters, oh my!56:56 - Final Thoughts58:02 - Wrap-up

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Hadrian’s Wall, Part IV: Walking from Birdoswald to Bowness-on-Solway

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