Heritage On A Plate: Jack Lury, On Reimagining Sri Lankan Cuisine

Finding Authenticity: Jack Lury’s Culinary Journey from Pop-Ups to Lury, HastingsIn this episode, Tea with Tooting Mama, I’m sitting down with Jack Lury, founder and chef of Lury in Hastings, to explore the intersections of Sri Lankan, Dutch, Portuguese, and British culinary heritage. Jack shares his journey from pop-ups in London to opening his own restaurant on the South Coast, and how his unique background shapes his approach to food.I had spotted Jack on Instagram and I was curious about his food. I had been meaning to go to one of his pop-ups which were in and around Dulwich just as the world opened up after COVID. I never quite made it, and then Jack’s Instagram feed went cold. Until, a few months later, he started posting from Hastings, with a new restaurant and a new baby.I knew I had to have Jack on my podcast to talk about his unique take on food which combines his classical culinary training with the flavours of Sri Lankan cuisine. Though I have eaten at Lury’s, and the food is excellent, this isn’t a review. This is more of an exploration of Jack’s heritage and identity interpreted through food.A Heritage of Many FlavorsJack’s culinary journey is deeply rooted in his multicultural background. Jack is of dual heritage British Sri Lankan. His Sri Lankan roots are of both Dutch and Portuguese Burgher (people who are descended from European settlers) . And it’s Jack’s family history which is reflected in his cuisine.  “The Burger community brought a whole new palette of food to the culture, making it so diverse now,” Jack explains. From the use of butter and meat to the introduction of European pastries and cakes, these influences are woven into the very fabric of his menu.Blending Classical Techniques with Sri Lankan SoulJack’s cooking style is a fusion of classical training and Sri Lankan flavours. He’s not interested in simply modernising traditional dishes; instead, he reinterprets family recipes through his own lens. Signature dishes like crab and squid ink pasta are more than just culinary experiments; they're personal expressions, marrying the nostalgia of Sri Lankan crab curry with the refinement of French technique.From Pop-Ups to Permanent RootsThe path to opening Lury wasn’t straightforward. Jack began with pop-ups in London, testing concepts and building a following. The transition to a permanent space in Hastings brought its own set of challenges from renovating a crumbling building to navigating the logistics of a full-scale restaurant. Jack’s adamant he’s not just another London restaurant that’s lifted and shifted itself to the South Coast,: “We wanted to feel like it is part of the community, not just a London restaurant transplanted to Hastings.” For that I applaud him.Sourcing Local, Celebrating CommunityLury is as much about place as it is about food. Jack and his partner Izzy have made a conscious effort to source ingredients locally, balancing quality with the realities of running a small kitchen. Their collaboration with local artists and ceramicists has transformed the restaurant into a living gallery, where every plate and napkin ring tells a story. The design, led by Izzy, draws on the colors and textures of Jack’s dishes, creating a warm, welcoming environment.Sourcing Textiles: Bringing Sri Lankan Heritage to the Table with BarefootThe story of Luri isn’t just told through food, it's in the fabric of the restaurant itself which draws inspiration from his Sri Lankan roots. One of the most meaningful collaborations has been with Barefoot, the legendary Sri Lankan textile company known for its vibrant, handwoven fabrics.Izzy, with her background in design, was determined to avoid anything that felt too overtly “touristy” or clichéd. Instead, she wanted the interiors to subtly echo the colors and textures of Jack’s heritage and the food he cooked.After discovering Barefoot’s work on Instagram, she reached out to the company, who custom-designed a fabric for the restaurant when the original pattern was no longer available.This thoughtful approach to design, makes Lury more than just a place to eat. Lury’s is a sensory experience that celebrates culture, memory, diversity of the Sri Lankan identity. Authenticity, Diaspora, and the Creative ProcessFor Jack, authenticity isn’t about strict adherence to tradition, it's about honesty and personal expression. During our discussion Jack was candid about the imposter syndrome that comes with representing a heritage that’s both his and not his. “The food is authentic simply by virtue of it being mine. It’s a reflection of who I am.” This philosophy guides his menu development, allowing him to balance innovation while respecting his roots. Advice for Aspiring RestaurateursJack’s journey offers valuable lessons for anyone considering the leap from pop-ups to bricks-and-mortar. “Be prepared for the unexpected”, he advises, and don’t underestimate the importance of community both in terms of customers and collaborators. Word-of-mouth has been Lury’s greatest asset, building a reputation that’s as much about connection as it is about cuisine.A Restaurant That Feels Like HomeAt its heart, Lury is a celebration of heritage, culture, creativity, and community. I believe Jack’s story is a reminder that authenticity comes from within, and that the best food tells a story that's as rich and complex as the people who create it.Connect with Jack and Lury:Instagram: @luri.hastings00:00 – Introduction & Host Welcome00:27 – How Jack and the Host Connected; Jack’s Culinary Heritage01:54 – The Burger Community and Its Influence on Sri Lankan Cuisine03:51 – Bread, Pastry, and Cake Traditions07:27 – Family Cooking Memories and Early Influences09:15 – Developing the Restaurant’s Menu: Fusion and Reinterpretation12:55 – Signature Dishes: Crab & Squid Ink Pasta, Mars Pan, and More14:40 – Jack’s Culinary Training and Early Career18:42 – Imposter Syndrome and Embracing Heritage19:59 – The COVID Pivot: Pop-Ups and Meal Kits22:24 – Moving to Hastings and Opening a Permanent Restaurant24:32 – Renovation Challenges and Lessons for Aspiring Restaurateurs28:36 – Collaborating with Local Artists and Ceramics in the Restaurant28:36 – Sourcing Sri Lankan Textiles: The Barefoot Story33:34 – Building Community and Reputation in Hastings36:56 – Balancing Authenticity, Innovation, and Diaspora Identity44:42 – Sourcing Ingredients: Local vs. Quality48:20 – Jack’s Ideal Sri Lankan Meal at Home49:45 – Favorite Sri Lankan Restaurants51:49 – What’s Next for Luri and Jack’s Vision53:33 – Closing Remarks & Thanks Get full access to Tooting Mama at tootingmama.substack.com/subscribe