Iris van Herpen on Visualizing the Invisible Through Haute Couture

Iris van Herpen’s boundary-defying, otherworldly work exists somewhere between couture, sculpture, science, technology, architecture, and nature. For nearly two decades, the Dutch fashion designer has radically expanded the possibilities of what forms haute couture can take, combining time-honored craftsmanship techniques with cutting-edge technologies and material innovations, from 3-D—and, perhaps eventually, 4-D—printing to bioluminescent algae, plasma, and even particle accelerators. While her practice boldly and unquestionably points toward the future, it’s equally invested in ancient knowledge, deep time, and what might endure. Currently, a sweeping exhibition, titled “Sculpting the Senses” and showcasing some 140 of her designs, is on view at the Brooklyn Museum through Dec. 6. On this episode of Time Sensitive—our Season 14 opener and first-ever fully filmed conversation, now available to watch on YouTube—van Herpen reflects on the significance of movement in her work the importance of carving out meditative time for creative exploration, and why going slower actually allows her to do more, with greater depth. Special thanks to our Season 14 presenting partner, L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts, supported by Van Cleef & Arpels. Show notes: Iris van Herpen [33:21] “Sculpting the Senses” [51:50] Philip Beesley [51:50] Björk [35:13] “Unfolding Time” (2024) [21:41] Sonic Starquakes (2026) [22:36] Lichtenberg figure [47:54] “The Gates of Hell” (1880–1917) [48:06] Musée Rodin [49:28] “The Garden of Earthly Delights” (1490–1510) [54:18] “Hybrid Holism” (2012) [58:24] Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode