加勒比海的怀念（之三）| 汤赤

十月中下旬的加勒比海岛国古巴，并无秋意。二十七日上午，我们来到著名文化泰斗海明威的故居。伟人的住处，在一座小山坡上，进入居地庭院，登上幢二楼，一股书卷气息扑面而来。室内书并太多，但可以从标本人图存、躺椅去猜想伟人的生活。一个北美人，为什么会千万里迢迢，来到南美的加勒比海岛国？要知道那时候的交通远不是今夕方便！汽车？航海？伟人时代是否有民航直飞来古巴？我没去考证！但可以肯定，伟人的时代，古巴对于北美人一定是鲜若圣地，他们崇拜、向往！传说的海明威，有二点让我痴迷！一是说他写作时的姿势，非于常人“坐椅伏桌”，而是躺着用仰视眼光、举手的写姿来行文的。猜想伟人的创作有深静地思考在伴随，那一刻的躺姿正切合了他的“静思”…为此，我在伟人的书房内，注视着那张躺椅，入神忘怀、不能自我；二是伟人的离世，不是因病、也非遇难！而是“自我了断”，后人揣摩伟人的方式？也许他觉得自己什么都有了？什么也不缺少了？也什么都没有追求了？生命的意义、价值也就不必存在了！此刻，结束生命是最好的选择！所以，伟人海明威的墓碑是块“无字碑”......中午时分，来到距伟人故居不远的科西玛尔小镇。导游略带神秘的示意我，就坐临窗、临海的位置。介绍，这里是当年伟人常来的酒馆，伟人喜欢安坐在陆海间，思考人生、创意佳作，猜想“老人与海”的杰作，也许此地也是伟人灵感的发源地。回看桌边的伟人塑像，思绪这百多年来的人类文明史，那一刻的我，对伟人的崇敬和早逝的遗憾，了然于胸......一名“一次世界大战”的军人；一名战地记者；一名身受237枚弹片折磨；一名诺贝尔文学奖获得者；一名自己将自己生命结束的人？！他就是上世纪初被称“硬汉派作家”——海明威！我找到一点点，喜欢伟人的“同理处”？同有军旅生涯、对生活皆有我之独立见地、喜欢写作！当然，类比的不自量力......上图照片这瘦矮的小伙子，是我们古巴之旅的“地陪”导游。肤色、深凹的眼睛、浓眉挺拔的鼻梁与加勒比海地区民族是合拍的。一路的风景，一路的人文。巴导的口音（中文说得极好），谦和的态度为人，多少给人“乡亲温情”的感觉。当在科西玛尔的海岸边，巴导终于揭迷。他的祖籍是广东人，上二辈人先是到旧金山做劳工，后来又飘洋南下到了古巴。小伙子本世纪初，曾入学国内的天津师范学院进修中文。他告诉我，进修读书时，口袋里还揣着广东家乡的大概区域地址，父亲执意要他寻根认祖。但苦于出不起，车旅费未能实现梦想！听了巴导介绍非常吃惊古巴人民的经济能力？！他介绍说，在古巴的社会制度下，上学、就医、住房等都属于政府支付的公共服务。全免单！古巴人的日常工资水平，也就相当于（2016年）中国国内的四十元的月工资。反正指令性计划经济，“吃国家、用国家”，古巴人民也心平气和，治安好，犯罪率也低！但老百姓的钱是不多的！与我们国内上世纪七、八年代的生活状况类似。巴导告诉我，做导游就是想挣点钱，一是改善、重造自家的房，他娶了大他十多岁，并有二个孩子的“大姐姐”，问及父母同意你的婚姻吗？他笑着说“挺支持我的”；二是攒够了钱，也想完成父辈的愿望，归乡认祖。已经许多年没有广东的联系了。巴导友好地表示，接待中囯游客挺真开心，不言而喻！好似见到故乡人！我们在巴拉德罗度假村，晚间看表演时，邂逅了几位他国游客，经交流得知对方是阿尔巴尼亚人。对方友好地示意我们与他们合桌围座、交流；一次途中用卫生间，出来遇守门的古巴大叔，他翘着二手的大拇指说“中国毛泽东、古巴卡斯特罗！”小时候，六十年代总听大人说“社会主义友好大家庭”。游走在地球的土地上，政治制度元素，也有了温度“我们同是社会主义一家人”......（未完待续）In Memoriam to HemingwayIt's not autumn on the Caribbean island of Cuba in mid-to-late October. On the morning of 27 th, we came to the former residence of the famous cultural hero Hemingway. The great man's residence, in a small hillside, into the residential courtyard, on the second floor of the building a book breath.There are not many books in the room, but you can guess the lives of great men from the specimens and lounge chairs. Why would a North American travel thousands of miles to the Caribbean islands of South America? You know the traffic at that time is far from convenient today! Car ?Sailing? Was there a direct flight to Cuba in the age of great men? I didn't take the test! But you can be sure that the era of great men, Cuba for North Americans must be fresh if holy land, they worship, yearning!The legendary Hemingway, there are two points let me obsessed! One is that his writing posture is not "sitting at a desk", but lying down with his eyes up and hands up. I guess the great man's creation is accompanied by deep and quiet thinking, and the lying posture at that moment is in line with his "quiet thinking"... So I was in the great man's study, looking at the couch, lost in thought; The second is the death of a great man, not from illness, nor from death! But "self-destruction," the posterity of the great man's way of reckoning? Maybe he thinks he has it all? Nothing is missing? You don't want anything anymore? The meaning and value of life need not exist! Right now, ending life is the best option! So Hemingway's tombstone is a "tombstone without words"...At noon, we arrived at the little town of Cosimar, not far from the great man's former home. With a hint of mystery, the guide beckoned me to a window seat overlooking the sea. Introduce, here is when the great man often come to the pub, the great man like to sit between the land and the sea, thinking about life, creative masterpieces, guess "the old man and the sea" masterpiece, perhaps here is also the birthplace of great inspiration. Looking back at the statue of the great man on the table, my thoughts on the history of human civilization over the past hundred years, at that moment, I, reverence for the great man and regret for his early death, know clearly in my heart...A soldier of the First World War �; A war correspondent; One suffered 237 shrapnel wounds; A Nobel Prize winner for literature; A man who took his own life? ! He is the beginning of the last century is called "tough school writer" - Hemingway! I find a little, like the great man's "empathy"? With military career, have my independent view of life, like writing! Of course, analogies overreach...Meet fellow countrymen in a foreign landThe skinny guy in the photo above was our "local guide" on our trip to Cuba. The skin tone, sunken eyes, thick eyebrows and straight nose are in tune with Caribbean peoples. All the way of scenery, all the way of humanity. Ba dao's accent (excellent In Chinese) and humble attitude give people the feeling of "warmth of the villagers".It was on the coast of Cosimar that Baumar finally revealed the mystery. He is of Cantonese origin, and his parents moved to San Francisco to work as laborers before drifting south to Cuba. At the beginning of this century, he studied Chinese in tianjin Normal University in China. He told me that when he was studying, he still carried in his pocket the general area address of his hometown in Guangdong, and his father insisted that he trace his ancestry. But suffering from not being able to afford, travel expenses failed to realize the dream!I was surprised to hear that the Cuban people's economic ability? ! Under Cuba's  social system, schooling, medical care and housing are all public services paid for by the government, he said. All free of charge! The daily wage level of Cubans is equivalent to the monthly salary of 40 yuan in China. Anyway command planned economy, "eat the country, use the country" Cuba �� people also calm, good public security, crime rate is low! But the common people's money is not much! It is similar to the living conditions in our country in the 1970s and 1980s.Ba guide told me that he wanted to make some money as a tour guide. First, he wanted to improve and rebuild his house. He married a "big sister" who was more than ten years older than him and had two children. He smiled and said he "supported me"; Two is to save enough money, also want to complete the father's wish, return home to recognize ancestors. There has been no contact with Guangdong for many years.The Pakistani guide said in a friendly way that he was very happy to receive Chinese tourists, which goes without saying! It's like seeing a native!A big, friendly familyAt the resort of Valadero, we met several foreign tourists while watching a show in the evening. Through communication, we learned that they were Albanians. The other side friendly  beckon us to surround the table with them, communication; A way to use the toilet, come out to meet the Cuban uncle guarding the door, he warped a second-hand thumb said "China MAO Zedong, Cuba Castro!"When I was a child in the 1960s, I used to hear people talk about the "socialist friendly family". Walk in the earth's land, the elements of the political system, but also the temperature "we are the same socialist family"... (To be continued)