“加勒比海”的怀念（之一）| 汤赤

岁月如歌、时光如梭五年前，2016年10月，从加拿大蒙特利尔的特鲁德机场起飞，我们穿越“美利坚”上空，直抵南美加勒比海的美丽岛国：古巴。在巴拉德罗机场落地。飞途中，想起童年的夏夜，凉风习习飘来“美丽地哈瓦那，那里是我的家，…跟着那领䄂卡斯托洛，重回那我的家”。那是“丽峰”姐姐在手风琴伴奏下，唱起的歌。承载着五十多年的童年神奇（不知哈瓦纳在那？），充满了对哈瓦纳的向往，心中浸润了无限的“梦圆归岸”憧憬，思绪流淌着…不觉得时光中自然、美丽加勒比海的碧波荡漾，已伴着飞机的缓缓降落，与我们相拥…古巴（Cuba)位于加勒比海的西北部，墨西哥湾入口处，北邻佛罗里达海峡及巴哈马海峡，南接加勒比海及牙买加��岛，因其地理位置被称为“墨西哥湾的钥匙”，因其形状被称为“加勒比海的绿色鳄鱼”。古巴印地安语意“地区、领土、省份”。全境有古巴��岛、青年岛等1600多个岛屿组成，海岸线6073千米，四周有290多个天然海滩，享有“百港之国”的美誉。下机后，驱车入住热带风情浓郁的度假村，已是半夜时分。政治气息严肃的国度社会，入住手续极其缓慢，护照、人照对比、信息入电脑（网速特缓）20人左右的“小团”，足足折腾了二个半小时，前台接待丝毫不着急，拿到别墅的门号，在没人导引下，大半夜寻房又折腾了20多分钟，进门后的室内设备与国内的招待所（古巴已属四星级酒店）差不多。洗澡间窗是不能锁关的。在蚊子的嗡嗡声中，累得不行的我们，也能呼呼大睡到天明。天亮了，我们走入棕榈、槟榔树交错的林间蓝色天空、白透的飘云衬绕着宁静、恬淡没有一丝浮躁的“巴拉德罗”度假村。什么叫清心、安神、舒缓、轻悠地放松心情？当你吻息加勒比的“海边味”？当你缓步在此热带植物园中？身心才享有了真正的快乐、休闲的那份感觉。进入早餐厅，满目的热带水果（香蕉、火龙果、菠萝、还有诸多不知名的）眼花缭乱。咖啡飘逸味、面包烤香味让人诱惑不已！恭敬友好的服务生，彬彬有礼。也许都是“社会主义”大家庭，感觉古巴人民对中国来宾，特别友好、热情！在巴拉德罗每日早餐中，妻是享尽了礼遇。服务生每天早上，入门就问早！导引入座，端送咖啡和茶。餐后用饮品时，每每一支雪茄烟便递到她面前，男士的我只能旁观欣慕，多少有点尴尬……尽管我们都不是“烟民”。穿越热带雨林树丛，进入巴拉德罗的海岸线。沙滩是银白色的，与我国广西北海的银滩类似；十月晨间的加勒比海宁静、安详；缓缓、悠悠的浪际线似组队的银龙，向陆岸友好地挤拥；巴拉德罗的天，用层次的蓝与飘云呼应；岸边的植被用厚重的绿，向远处海、天、地延伸；陶醉于海天中的妻，蹲下身用手，去招迎浪的“贵宾来”？此刻的人已深情融入自然的海天地中…第三天旅程，是自选报名项目，从游轮码头上船，向马坦萨斯的“无名岛”驶去。游船行驶中“加勒比海盗”的民族风情格外浓，船上的工作人员，人人皆是演员、教练！当碧波荡漾海面、习习的凉风、舒坦的心绪正让人释然情绪时，一阵快节奏的南美音乐，几乎有点风狂的奏响。顷刻间，全船的游客在船员的导引下，翩翩起舞，节奏明快。这时的游戏规则“人人定要跳舞”，谁若不遵，则由二名大汉将你抛下海！疯狂的加勒比、疯狂的“加勒比海盗”民族，奔放、粗旷、豪爽直白透明！船体在群舞共震下，微微晃动，打破了加勒比海此刻的宁静。哇！一声响叫，已见“无名岛”的远方码头，驶入近海，几十名游人身穿潜水衣纷纷跳入海中，开始”浮潜”运动。上岸了，这是位于古巴马坦萨斯省的一座未开发岛。岛上没有居民，只有服务游客的“短时”工作人员。上岛后，所有人皆是光脚，要涉水上岸，奇怪的是这沙滩上怎么可以长出茁壮的棕榈树？已是中午时份，游客们排队开始用歺。哇噻！意外发现是，午餐每份可享用一只肥美的“加勒比海龙虾”，个头与国内的小青龙虾差不多。它的味道极鲜，是地道的无污染、纯净海岛鲜食。贪婪的食欲，当我们向工作人员要求再吃一只时，回答“不！”“一人一只”这也许是社会主义——“指令性计划经济”体现？表达人与人的公平、不允特殊…未完待续后文之（二）timelike five years ago,in October 2016,wetookofffromtrudeairportinMontreal,Canada,andwecrossedthe"American"overtheUnitedStates,totheCaribbeanofSouthAmerica:Cuba.Landedatelbarroairport.Onthewaytotheflight,thinkingofthesummernightofchildhood,thecoolbreezefloated"beautifulHavana,whereitismyhome,...withtheleadofcastillo,backtomyhome".Itwasthesongofsisterlifengsingingwiththeaccompanimentoftheorgan.Withthemagicofherchildhoodofmorethan50years.),fulloftheyearningforhawana,theheartisimmersedintheinfinite"dreamroundtotheshore"longing,thoughtsflow...Imperceptiblyinthetimeofnature,beautifulCaribbeanbluewaves,hasbeenaccompaniedbytheslowlandingoftheplane,andweembrace...CubaislocatedinthenorthwestoftheCaribbean,thegulfofMexico,thegulfofMexico,thestraitofFloridaandthestraitoftheBahamasinthenorth,theCaribbeanandtheJamaicaislandinthesouth,becauseitsgeographicallocationiscalledthe"keytothegulfofMexico",becauseitsshapeiscalledthe"greencrocodileoftheCaribbean".CubanIndianmeans"region,territory,province".Thewholeterritoryiscomposedofmorethan1,600islandssuchasCubanislandandyouthisland,withacoastlineof6073kilometersandarangeofmorethan290naturalbeachesaroundit,enjoyingthereputationof"thekingdomofbaihong".Aftergettingofftheplane,itismidnighttodriveintothetropicaltourismvillage.Thepoliticalatmosphereofthecountrysociety,check-inproceduresareextremelyslow,passport,personphotocomparison,informationintothecomputer(networkspeedisslow)about20people"smallgroup", fullyspenttwoandahalfhours,thereceptionreceptionisnoturgent,tookthevilladoornumber,inthemiddleofthenightsearchroomandmorethan20minutes,theindoorequipmentafterthedoorandthedomesticguesthouse(Cubaisalreadyafour-starhotel).Thebathroomwindowcannotbelocked.Inthehumofmosquito,tirednotus,canalsosleeploudlyuntildawn.Atdawn,wewalkedintotheblueskybetweentheforestsofpalmandarecatrees,andthewhitecloudslinedwithquiet,calmandnopomp.Whatisclearheart,calm,slow,relaxedmood?WhenyoukisstheCaribbean"seaflavor"?Whenyouwalkslowlyinthistropicalbotanicalgarden?Thebodyandmindonlyenjoytherealhappiness,leisureofthefeeling.Intothebreakfasthall,thetropicalfruits(banana,torino,pineapple,andmanyunknown)aredazzled.Coffeeeleganttaste,breadaromamakespeopletemptation!Respectfulandfriendlywaitersandcourteous.Maybeallofthemare"socialist"families.TheyfeelthattheCubanpeopleareveryfriendlyandenthusiastictoChineseguests!Hiswifewastreatedatelbarro'sdailybreakfast.Everymorning,thewaiterasksearly!Guidetheseat,servecoffeeandtea.Whendrinkingafterdinner,everycigarcigaretteishandedtoher,themanIcanonlylookontheadmiration,moreorlessembarrassed...Althoughwearenotsmokers.Throughrainforesttrees,intoelbarro'scoastline.Thebeachissilver-white,similartothesilverbeachinbeihai,guangxi,China;TheCaribbeanisquietandpeacefulinOctobermorning;Theslow,leisurelylineislikeateamofsilverdragon,totheshorefriendlycrowded;Theskyofelbarra,withtheblueofthehierarchyandfloatingcloudsecho;Thevegetationontheshoreisthickgreen,extendingtothesea,heavenandearthinthedistance;Intoxicatedwiththewifeintheseasky,squatdownwithhishand,torecruitthe"VIP"tomeetthewaves?Thepeopleatthismomenthavedeepfeelingsintothenaturalseaandheaven...Thethirddayofthejourney,istochoosetheregistrationproject,fromthecruiseterminaltothe"namelessisland"ofmattanas.The"piratesoftheCaribbean"nationalamorousfeelingsinthecruiseshipareparticularlystrong,thecrew,everyoneisanactor,coach!Whenthebluewavesareripplingthesea,thecoolwind,andthecomfortablemoodarelettingpeoplefeelrelieved,afastrhythmofSouthAmericamusic,almostalittlewindcrazyplay.Inamoment,thewholeship'stourists,undertheguidanceofthecrew,dancedanddancedbrightly.Atthistimethegamerules"everyonemustdance",whodoesnotfollow,bytwobigmenwillthrowyouoffthesea!CrazyCaribbean,crazypiratesoftheCaribbeanpeople,bold,rugged,straightforwardandtransparent!Thehullshookslightlyunderthecollectivedance,breakingthepeaceoftheCaribbean.Wow!Withasound,dozensoftouristsdressedindivingsuitsjumpedintotheseaandbeganthe"snorkeling"movementwhentheysawthedistancepieroftheunknownisland.Ashore,anundevelopedislandintheprovinceofmasanace,Cuba.Therearenoresidentsontheisland,only"short"staffwhoservetourists.Whenyougototheisland,everyoneisbarefootandwadedashore.What'sstrangeishowtogrowstrongpalmtreesonthebeach?Itwasnoon,andthetouristslineduptostartusingit.Wow!Thesurprisewasthatafat"Caribbeanlobster"servedforlunchwasaboutthesamesizeasasmallbluelobsterinChina.Itsflavorisveryfresh,istheauthenticpollution-free,pureislandfreshfood.Greedyappetite,whenweaskthestaffforanotherone,answer"no!""Onepersonandoneperson"thismaybetheembodimentofsocialism--"mandatoryplanningeconomy"?Expresspeople'sfairness,notspecial...(2)to 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