Laird Hamilton: Life Rider

I caught up with one of the most extraordinary athletes on the planet, the ultimate waterman of the universe and author of a new book called Life Rider. As a longtime very casual recreational surfer (I like my waves 18-24….inches), I have long been fascinated by Laird’s continued pushing of the outer limits of human performance in the water. Laird is best known as a big-wave surfer and innovator in the world of action water sports. Laird is credited with being the driving force behind tow-in-surfing (behind a jet ski, so one can ride larger waves than paddling in), stand-up paddle boarding and hydrofoil boarding.   One of my favorite Laird experiences came a couple of days apart during an epic storm pattern in Southern California. With record-sized waves pumping, Laird made it onto YouTube when he “shot” the Malibu Pier on a standup paddleboard. This is the extremely challenging and dangerous act of riding a wave all the way into the pier, passing through the huge wooden pylons underneath, then emerging out the other side. Considering you are traveling some 20mph on a big wave, if you hit a pylon you are likely toast. A video arriving two days later beautifully framed with a big picture of Laird. At the same Malibu Pier, a foolish body surfer became trapped in an undertow and was about to drown. Who jumps in to quickly save him but Laird. So you have the extreme athlete pulling off epic feats for the brah’s to marvel at, and then switching into his lifeguard hat to risk his own safety to save a Barney. Watch the video and look at Laird’s demeanor…  Laird seems to touch things and have them turn to gold. His Laird Superfood coffee creamer and related products have been a smash hit, as was his innovative GolfBoard that allows golfers to get a surfing-like experience on grass instead of a lame golf cart. Laird, along with Gabby, are pioneers in underwater strength training. TIMESTAMPS:  When surfing, you can tell what’s happening behind you by looking in front of you. [08:12]  Nurture the body and you’ll stimulate the brain and get it to work even better. [10:25]  It's a human responsibility to get out and, and live and experience life. Take risks.  [13:02]  There are three ways to approach dangerous things. [21:29]  Are we born to do certain things like extreme sports? [23:34]  Subconscious programming takes place from age zero to six. [25:30]  Some high performing people in all fields a lot of times come from some sort of shit in their background that was tough and, and challenge them. [27:36]  How does one juggle life in the big city with communing with nature? [31:05]  If you want to keep learning you have to seek out information. [36:14]  This younger generation doesn’t know how to have fun. [38:13]  If you stop having dreams, then you stop having hope.. [40:30]  We are each our own greatest restrictors. [44:34]  What did it take for Laird to learn to be more aggressive? [48:22] Support this podcast at — https://redcircle.com/the-get-over-yourself-podcast/donationsAdvertising Inquiries: https://redcircle.com/brandsSee omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.