Matt and Sara Licklider of LIOCO Wines

"We're in the business of making agricultural wines, and I think we need to make a distinction right here between agricultural wine and industrial wine. A lot of these vineyards that have these really amazing histories attributed to them also have people with interesting histories. It's not selling the widgets—it's teasing out the stories about these very authentic places and these interesting people and then being able to share those stories." – Matt Licklider Twenty years ago, LIOCO was founded to disrupt the California wine status quo of high-alcohol, oak-heavy bottles, proving instead that California soils could produce wines with the same energy, acidity, and restraint as Europe's classical regions.This week, Matt and Sara Licklider, the dynamic vintners behind LIOCO, discuss operating as a négociant producer, embracing an elastic model that prioritizes storytelling, regional transparency, and agricultural authenticity. They share behind-the-scenes stories of their legendary growers—from the late Jim McCutchen hand-planting Carignan in the early 1960s to John Balletto carving a full "Field of Dreams" baseball diamond out of his Russian River Valley Chardonnay vineyard.The conversation also tackles how climate change is forcing the industry to adapt. Matt and Sara discuss why Chardonnay and Pinot Noir may eventually migrate out of traditional regions, prompting LIOCO to explore heat-tolerant Mediterranean varieties and vibrant Albariño from the Sacramento River Delta. Finally, they dive into what "perfection" really means in the cellar, exploring how to balance microbial loads to ensure a wine's typicity always shines through.Automatically generated transcripts often make mistakes. Find a corrected version here.Skurnik Wines & SpiritsFollow us on Instagram