Rangitoto and Motutapu Island

In this episode of The Tramping Life, we head somewhere few people associate with overnight tramping — Auckland. Just 25 minutes by ferry from the city lies Rangitoto and neighbouring Motutapu Island — two contrasting islands that combine volcanic geology, conservation success, military history and classic Kiwi bach culture.Rangitoto, Auckland’s youngest and largest volcano, erupted around 600 years ago, forming a 23km² island of jagged lava fields and pōhutukawa forest — the largest pōhutukawa forest in the world. Scattered along its shores are more than 100 historic baches, built mainly in the 1920s and 30s. Three have been restored by the Rangitoto Island Historic Conservation Trust, including Bach 78 at Islington Bay — a simple, character-filled place to spend the night.From the 259m summit of Rangitoto there are expansive views across the Hauraki Gulf and back to Auckland’s skyline. Staying overnight transforms the experience — sunset without the ferry crowds, ruru calling in the dark, and birdsong on the walk back down Summit Road.Across the causeway lies Motutapu — older, farmed, and historically rich. Once occupied by Māori prior to Rangitoto’s eruption, later a venue for large Victorian-era picnics, and heavily fortified during World War II, it now hosts extensive native restoration led by the Motutapu Restoration Trust. Over 500,000 trees have been planted, and both islands are now pest-free sanctuaries supporting takahē, saddleback, kererū, pīwakawaka and ruru.On this trip I stayed twice at Bach 78, walking the more rugged Coastal Track to Islington Bay, watching sunset from a deserted summit, and exploring Motutapu’s rolling hills, WWII remains, Home Bay campsite, and Emu Point. The contrast between Rangitoto’s raw volcanic terrain and Motutapu’s pastoral hills is striking — two distinct landscapes joined by a narrow causeway.Rangitoto and Motutapu offer a rare combination: accessible, affordable, logistically simple — yet quiet, scenic and historically layered. An overnight here feels far removed from the city, despite being within sight of it.