Ratatouille

The most famous ratatouille in the world isn't a ratatouille. The dish that makes the critic weep in the Pixar film is a confit byaldi, thin sliced and fanned in a pan, designed by Thomas Keller off a recipe Michel Guérard published in 1976. What Provence actually makes is a stew, and this week we make the case that the stew is the better dish.We trace the word back to the Occitan, where it meant a coarse stew of odds and ends and wasn't a compliment, through to the 1930s when the version we recognize finally became canon. Then we get into the argument that decides the whole dish: cook every vegetable separately, or throw it all in one pot. Julia Child says separately and takes three hours over it. Jacques Pépin says one pot and pay attention to the timing. We settle where we land, and why texture is the entire game.Traditional ratatouille has no booze in it at all, so we built some in. French dry vermouth, cooked down with the onion and garlic until it has completely evaporated, leaving the acidity and the herbs and none of the liquid. Sother's cocktail this week is the Hugo Spritz, elderflower and sparkling wine in a big goblet, garnished with dried lavender to tie it straight back to Provence.For the full recipes and more, become a premium subscriber at https://sauced.supercast.com/Follow us on Instagram: @sauced.podThanks to all of this week's partners:Arriesgado Ancestral Tequila: https://pkgdgroup.com/#our_brands/Underberg: https://underbergamerica.com/