Shifting Sands

Saudi Arabia is a controversial place - one that for years was closed off to westerners without a special invite. But that all changed in 2019 with the announcement of a new tourist visa and a huge investment in infrastructure - beginning with the north-western oasis city of Alula. So far, most travellers have been Instagram influencers, keen to get 'that' shot of Elephant Rock or the infinity pool at Habitas. But Wander Woman Phoebe Smith is determined to skew the surface glitz, head off piste and dig deeper to discover if tourism really has made a difference to the local women who live there. Following in the footsteps of her late grandmother, who journeyed to Saudi in 1987, her guide is the diary her granny kept, a constant source of comparison between then and now. Never afraid to ask questions, probe deeper and seek answers, Phoebe asks - is tourism helping the women of Saudi to break trail?Also coming up:How you can enjoy a stress-free visit to Saudi Arabia; meet the woman working as part of a team to bring back the Arabian leopard; discover how best to dress to comfortably go from souk to sand; 10 reasons to consider a visit to Alula; hear about TV historian Bettany Hughes' love of all things Nabatean; Wander Woman of the Month – the first British born Muslim woman who made a pilgrimage to Mecca – Zainab Cobbold (aka Lady Evelyn Murray).Contact Wander Womanwww.Phoebe-Smith.com; @PhoebeRSmith