Smoke Signals: Decoding the Hidden Impact of Wildfires on Wine with Dr. Wes Zandberg

What are the main causes of wildfires in wine country? Which two weather-based factors are the strongest predictors of the severity of wildfires each season? What impact do wildfires have on the taste of your wine, and why is it difficult to predict whether smoke-exposed grapes will, in fact, produce tainted wine? Should we, as consumers, be concerned about buying wines from regions which have experienced wildfires? Why does smoke taint intensify as a wine ages? How can wineries mitigate the risk of producing smoke-tainted wine? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with researcher Dr. Wes Zandberg. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks   Highlights What sparked Wes' interest in winemaking and wine chemistry? Why are BC wineries at a disadvantage coming out of 2022 and 2023? What are the main causes of wildfires in British Columbia? How much damage was caused by the wildfires in late 2023 and why were they worse than in the past? Why did the wildfires start so early in 2024? Which two weather-based factors are the strongest predictors of the risk of wildfires each season? How does fire play an important role in the forest ecosystem? How do wildfires affect wine itself chemically? What is the economic impact of wildfires on the wine industry? Why is it challenging to predict smoke taint through analytical tools alone? How does yeast activity contribute to smoke taint in wine post-fermentation? Why does smoke taint show up differently in different wines despite the same level of exposure of the grapes? How can wineries mitigate the risk of producing smoke-tainted wine? Is there a health risk associated with wine made from smoke-exposed grapes? Why does smoke taint intensify with wine aging? Why does the perception of smoke taint become stronger with every sip? What are some similarities and differences between wildfire smoke exposure and the smoky aromas achieved with oak barrels? Are some grape varieties more susceptible to smoke taint than others? What are some of the main challenges in researching the effects of smoke exposure on wine? Were there differences between the wildfires in BC, California, and Australia wine country? Where is the current research focus for prevention and mitigation of smoke taint? How would routine testing of grapes in vineyards help researchers establish benchmarks for risk assessment? How could understanding more about the terroir of the air positively impact the wine industry?   Key Takeaways In 2021, Wes notes that the BC's Okanagan Valley experienced severe wildfires due to arson. The vast majority, though, of wildfires are started by lightning and human causes, both errors and malevolence. Wes observes that the quicker snow melts and evaporates, leaving drier conditions, the greater the risk of wildfires. This is exacerbated if seasonal rains are below average, especially in June and July. There isn't a chemical test to determine whether smoke-exposed grapes will actually produce smoke-tainted wines. Smoke taint also doesn't express itself in unfermented grapes, making it even harder to predict its impact on the wine.   About Wes Zandberg Before beginning his independent research career at The University of British Columbia (2015), Wes earned a PhD in chemistry at Simon Fraser University with Prof. B. Mario Pinto. Wes loved the rainy Fraser Valley so much that he remained at SFU, completing his post-doctoral research with Prof. David Vocadlo. This training instilled in Wes a fascination for glycoscience as well as a realization that the study of the structures/functions of carbohydrates (i.e. glycoscience) was—and still is—impeded by a dearth of suitable analytical tools and methods. Now, students in Wes' lab at devise glyco-analytical methods that actually work for real samples rather than off-the-shelf model systems.         To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/podcast.