EPISODE · Sep 4, 2024 · 23 MIN
Speak Greasy with Gauri Devidayal & Dylan Eitharong | Ep 3.1 | Haawm Is Where The Unapologetics Are
from Speak Greasy with Gauri Devidayal · host Food Matters Group | Magazine St. Kitchen
Welcome to the 3rd season of Magazine St. Kitchen Presents Speak Greasy with Gauri Devidayal. In this highly anticipated premiere episode, Gauri sits down with Dylan Eitharong, the charismatic chef-owner of Haawm in Bangkok, often regarded as the bad boy of Thailand’s culinary scene. Dylan’s unique journey from America to Thailand is nothing short of fascinating, making this a must-listen for anyone passionate about food, travel, and culture.Born to a Thai father and an American mother, Dylan made a life-changing decision in 2019 to move to Thailand, initially to pursue love. However, this romantic adventure soon turned into a culinary mission. Starting with an Airbnb at his aunt's house, Dylan found himself consulting for restaurants and teaching cooking classes when the pandemic struck. This led to the creation of Haawm, a supper club that quickly became a hit in Bangkok’s dining scene.The name "Haawm" is particularly meaningful— it translates to “smell” in Thai and sounds like “home,” perfectly capturing the essence of Dylan’s approach to food. His cooking is unapologetically Thai, yet entirely his own, combining traditional recipes with his unique, bold flair. In this episode, Dylan opens up about overcoming imposter syndrome while living in America, where he struggled to present his dishes as authentically Thai. But once he returned to Thailand, he embraced his roots, cooking traditional recipes with a personal twist that truly represents his identity.Dylan’s supper club at Haawm has attracted a diverse clientele, with guests often forgetting that they are dining in a home rather than a traditional restaurant. His unapologetic and raw style of cooking has resonated with the older Thai generation, who appreciate his dedication to using locally sourced ingredients. However, his unconventional approach has been met with mixed reactions from younger, affluent Thais who are more accustomed to modern, quick-service dining.As the conversation unfolds, Gauri and Dylan delve into the pressures of the culinary world, discussing the impact of prestigious awards and lists like Asia’s 50 Best and the Michelin Guide. Dylan critiques the trend of restaurants focusing more on accolades than on the quality of their food, a practice he believes is detrimental to the Thai food industry. He also shares his belief that chefs should be present in their kitchens, rather than just lending their names to dishes without being involved in the cooking process.The episode concludes with a lighter discussion about Dylan’s extensive collection of tattoos, each with its own unique backstory. He also shares his love for Bombay, his second favourite city after Bangkok, and his fondness for Baghdadi in Colaba, a restaurant that reminds him of home.Don’t miss this captivating episode as Gauri and Dylan explore the intersections of food, culture, and personal expression in the culinary world. Tune in for an insightful conversation that is sure to resonate with foodies, travellers, and anyone interested in the art of authentic cooking.
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What this episode covers
Welcome to the much-anticipated third season of Magazine St. Kitchen Presents: Speak Greasy with Gauri Devidayal. In this exciting season opener, Gauri engages in a compelling conversation with Dylan Eitharong, the audacious chef-owner of Haawm in Bangkok. Known as the bad boy of Bangkok’s culinary scene, Dylan brings a fresh and unorthodox perspective to cooking, making this episode a must-watch for food enthusiasts, travellers, and anyone interested in the rich tapestry of Thai cuisine. Dylan’s journey is a fascinating tale of cultural fusion and personal discovery. Born to a Thai father and an American mother, Dylan grew up with a blend of two distinct cultures. It wasn’t until 2019, however, that he decided to relocate to Thailand, initially to pursue a romantic relationship. What started as a quest for love soon evolved into a deeper connection with his Thai heritage and his passion for opening a restaurant after Bangrak. Upon moving to Bangkok, Dylan began by setting up an Airbnb in his aunt’s house, hoping to tap into the burgeoning Airbnb experiences market. However, the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic brought these plans to a sudden halt. Undeterred, Dylan pivoted, offering restaurant consultancy and cooking classes from the same house. This period of adaptation led to the creation of Haawm, a supper club that has since become a sensation in Bangkok’s vibrant dining scene. The name "Haawm" is particularly significant, as it means “smell” in Thai and is also a homophone for “home.” This dual meaning encapsulates Dylan’s approach to cooking—bringing together the warmth and comfort of home with the sensory experience of Thai cuisine. Initially starting as a weekly event, Haawm quickly gained popularity, prompting Dylan to offer daily dining experiences that have attracted a diverse clientele. Dylan’s style of cooking is unapologetically Thai, yet distinctly personal. In this episode, he opens up about the imposter syndrome he experienced in America, where he struggled to present his dishes as genuinely Thai. But upon returning to Thailand, he found the confidence to embrace traditional recipes, infusing them with his own creative twists. His food is loud, raw, and full of character—a true reflection of his personality. Haawm has garnered both praise and criticism, with Dylan’s unconventional approach resonating more with the older Thai generation, who appreciate his dedication to authenticity and locally sourced ingredients. Meanwhile, younger, affluent Thais often resist his non-traditional methods, preferring the convenience and familiarity of modern dining. Despite operating out of a house, Dylan’s guests sometimes forget they’re not in a conventional restaurant setting, expecting five-star service and ambience. As the conversation with Gauri unfolds, they discuss the broader challenges and pressures of the culinary industry, particularly the influence of awards like Asia’s 50 Best and the Michelin Guide. Dylan shares his concerns about restaurants opening solely to chase accolades, arguing that this trend can undermine the integrity of the food and create barriers for people to enjoy authentic Thai cuisine. He emphasises the importance of chefs being present in their kitchens, criticising the rise of celebrity chefs who distance themselves from the daily operations of their establishments. The episode also explores Dylan’s belief in the significance of chefs maintaining a hands-on approach, ensuring that the food served truly represents their vision. This philosophy is evident in Dylan’s daily involvement at Haawm, where he remains deeply connected to the cooking process and the overall dining experience. The episode concludes with a light-hearted discussion about Dylan’s extensive collection of tattoos, each with its own quirky and often humorous backstory. He also expresses his deep affection for Bombay, which he considers his second favourite city after Bangkok, and his love for Baghdadi in Colaba, a restaurant that evokes a sense of home and comfort. Join Gauri and Dylan for this captivating episode as they explore the intricacies of food, culture, and the pursuit of authenticity in a culinary world increasingly driven by image and accolades. This episode is an essential watch for anyone interested in the art of cooking, the challenges of the culinary industry, and the unique flavours of Thai cuisine. Whether you're a food lover, a traveller, or simply curious about the life of a chef who defies convention, this episode promises to be an engaging and insightful experience.
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Speak Greasy with Gauri Devidayal & Dylan Eitharong | Ep 3.1 | Haawm Is Where The Unapologetics Are
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