Staying Calm in Difficult Surfs

This week, we go deep into what it’s like to head into a busy (or local) lineup - all the nuances of ego, localism, surf ability and pre judgement come into play and we go round the house (with some crap ozzy impressions thrown in for good measure).  In mind, body and Stoke we talk about Wills recent zero carb journey to reduce inflammation in his ankle and how much we recommend experimentation (and research what happened in the 60’s around “health” and the myths around saturated fat). We accidentally smash Gul wetsuits to bits and wax lyrical about our latest million dollar contract being sent out by oneill wetsuits !! Stay stoked guys! Will & Liam