The First Real Data On Climbing While Pregnant | JOY BLACK

Send us Fan MailThree years ago Joy Black came on this show to talk about climbing in pregnancy and postpartum, and quite honestly, we had almost no research to point at. She came back this time as a published researcher. Two papers, both in Sports Medicine, both with Dr. Margie Davenport's lab at University of Alberta.So we sat down and broke them open.The first is qualitative: 11 elite climbers, Olympic and World Cup level, on how they actually made decisions while pregnant. Not "is climbing risky, yes or no." Something much more interesting. They're assessing risk continuously, move to move, inside a single climb.The second one is big. 692 climbers. Roughly 64,000 hours of climbing during pregnancy. And it gives us numbers we have never had before.More than half of those climbers were never given a single recommendation about climbing during pregnancy by a practitioner. Not "here's how to modify." Not "here's what to watch." Nothing. And fewer than 40% were offered any rehab at all postpartum.We did not tell them no. We said nothing. Which they heard, correctly, as we have no idea what you do.🔹 Why a fall in climbing is not what you think it is, and why that distinction changes everything 🔹 What the fall rate and adverse event rate actually were across 64,000 hours 🔹 The modifications climbers make on their own, top roping, vertical over steep, lower grades, not topping out 🔹 Controlled impact versus chaotic impact, and why a six week okay is not clearance for either 🔹 What to ask a climber in your clinic when you have never climbed in your life 🔹 The prolapse story that made me want to stand up and cheer, and maybe throw somethingI promise you, you do not have to be a climber to help a climber. Joy says it better than I do, and she says it about halfway in.Guest: Joy Black, climbing coach for pregnant and postpartum climbers, @climbingwithjoy, trainedbyjoy.com. Her first time on the show was Season 2, Episode 12.Research collaborator: Dr. Margie Davenport, @drmargiedavenportStudies discussed: 🔹Davenport MH, Ray L, Black J, McHugh TL. "An Informed Risk Assessment": A Qualitative Exploration of Elite Climbers' Experiences During Pregnancy and the Postpartum Period. Sports Medicine. 2025.🔹Davenport MH, Osachoff L, Ray L, Black J, Cheung NKY, McHugh TL. To Climb or Not to Climb: A Cross-Sectional Investigation of Risks and Benefits During Pregnancy and Postpartum. Sports Medicine. 2026.The Active Mom Podcast — a real mom's guide to pregnancy, postpartum, perimenopause & beyond, for active moms and the professionals who help them get there.Quick-hit conversations with moms, providers, and researchers... because you don't have a lot of free time (you're probably listening at 1.5x right now).Follow so you don't miss an episode. Rate & review ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ — it's how the next mom searching for these answers actually finds them. Share it with the friend who needs it.Questions or topic requests? DM me 💌