When Did Irish Restaurants Get Really Good?

For decades, Irish food suffered from a reputation it struggled to shake. Overcooked vegetables, low expectations, and the idea that good eating was something you travelled abroad to find. Then something changed. Irish restaurants grew more confident, more creative, and far more ambitious. Today, Ireland is home to dozens of Michelin-listed restaurants, an internationally respected dining scene, and a generation of chefs who take Irish ingredients — and Irish food culture — seriously. So, when did Irish restaurants actually get good? On today’s podcast, Sean Defoe is joined at the restaurant table by chef, food historian, and TU Dublin lecturer Máirtín Mac Con Iomaire. From Ballymaloe to modern neighbourhood bistros, from Michelin stars to vegetable-led menus, Máirtín traces the long evolution of Irish dining — and explains why this was less a sudden revolution than a slow, cultural shift in how Ireland eats, cooks, and thinks about food. They talk about the role of foreign travel and chef training abroad, how Michelin fits into the story, and whether Ireland’s current golden age of restaurants is sustainable amid rising costs and staff shortages. 📘 Book recommendation Máirtín Mac Con Iomaire is the co-editor of Irish Food History: A Companion, published by the Royal Irish Academy — an award-winning deep dive into how Ireland eats, cooked, and understood food across centuries. A serious contender for the foodie Christmas list. 📩 Get in touch Have thoughts, memories, or strong opinions about Irish restaurants past and present? You can email the podcast at [email protected].