An Englishman in the Balkans: New Stories from Bosnia

In this episode of An Englishman in the Balkans, I step away from the usual travel stories and personal reflections to look at something that says a great deal about Bosnia and Herzegovina today.The damaged bridge at the Gradiška border crossing, between Bosnia and Herzegovina and Croatia, is not just a story about traffic, customs, lorries, and delays. It is also a story about politics, frustration, missed opportunities, and the way ordinary people and businesses so often pay the price when practical problems become political arguments.Gradiška is one of the most important crossings for those of us living in the Banja Luka region. It connects northern Bosnia with Croatia, the European Union, Zagreb, Slovenia, Austria, Germany, and beyond. When traffic was suspended after damage to the old bridge over the Sava River, long queues quickly followed, with freight and passenger traffic diverted to already busy crossings.Reports described truck delays of up to 16 hours at Jasenovac/Donja Gradina.But the bigger question is this: why was a new crossing, already built and ready, not fully solving the problem before the crisis happened?This is a reflection on Gradiška, Banja Luka, Sarajevo, Croatia, bureaucracy, political point scoring, and the real economic cost of delay in a country that cannot afford to keep losing time. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit coffeeandrakija.substack.com/subscribe

In this episode, I visit Tito’s Bunker near Konjic, one of the most secretive Cold War sites in the former Yugoslavia.Hidden beneath a mountain in Bosnia and Herzegovina, ARK D-0 was designed as an underground command centre for Tito and Yugoslav leaders in the event of nuclear war.What began as a short stop on a road trip became a journey into a hidden world of tunnels, offices, communications rooms, and Cold War history.This is a story about secrecy, memory, Yugoslavia, Bosnia, and the layers of history beneath the surface. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit coffeeandrakija.substack.com/subscribe

An Englishman in the Balkans is an audio journey into the heart of Bosnia and Herzegovina, seen through the eyes of an Englishman who has made this place his home.Thanks so much in advance.I had planned to make a simple hiking story from the hills above Kakanj in central Bosnia. A scenic walk with our hiking club, a few thoughtful voice notes, some views towards Vlašić, and the sounds of boots, birdsong, and conversation along the way.Bosnia had other ideas.This episode is about a 13.5 kilometre hike that quickly became something much more personal: a lesson in preparation, aging, stubbornness, and humility. From a too-heavy rucksack and the wrong trousers to unforgiving hills, aching knees, and schoolchildren who seemed to float up the climbs, it reminded me that walking every day is not quite the same as hiking in Bosnia.It is also a story about community, kindness, and the strange satisfaction of reaching the end when, somewhere along the route, you quietly wondered whether you would.Thank YouThank you for listening to these little slices of my life. If you’d like to get more stories, you can subscribe to my Substack, it’s free, and if you ever want to upgrade to paid but can’t afford it, just email me. I’ll sort it out, no questions asked.Here are 3 questions I have.* What would make you hit “play” on an audio post instead of just reading?* What makes a podcast episode feel personal or meaningful to you?* Would you like me to add audio versions of my blog posts so you can choose how to enjoy them?I’ll give a complimentary subscription to Coffee and Rakija for life for taking the time to answer. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit coffeeandrakija.substack.com/subscribe