Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas

How do the world’s best tanneries stay consistent, and what happens when they experiment with things like squid ink?In this episode of the Full Grain Podcast, Phil and Nick pull back the curtain on the technical side of Horween leather. We dive deep into the confusing world of leather grading systems—explaining exactly what stamps like TR, SP, and Satra mean for the final product.We also tackle the manufacturing "nightmares" of one-piece shell cordovan belts, the risks of tying your entire brand identity to a single tannery, and why Phil is considering putting denim inside his next high-end leather bag.In this episode, we discuss:Squid Ink & Tanning: The weirdest substances used to dye leather.The Grading Secret: Decoding Horween’s internal stamp system (TR, SP, R, and Satra).Shell Quality Tracking: How individual "shaver stamps" ensure quality control at the tannery.The One-Piece Belt Problem: Why shell cordovan belts are so expensive and hard to make.Brand Strategy: The pros and cons of being "The Horween Brand" vs. an independent maker.Design Choices: Using denim liners in bags and managing dye transfer on Dublin leather.Bonus: Nick gives Phil a "Personal Trainer" breakdown on functional strength and weightlifting for longevity.Have a question for our next Q&A? Drop a comment below! We will be sourcing our next round of questions directly from the YouTube comments section.Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

In this episode of the Full Grain Podcast, we sit down with Steven Taffel, the founder of Leffot—one of the world's premier destinations for fine footwear located in the heart of New York City.Steven shares the fascinating origin story of Leffot and how he curated a selection that includes legendary makers like Alden, Edward Green, and Joseph Cheaney. We dive deep into the nuances of footwear retail, the "lost art" of in-person sizing, and how Leffot is changing the secondary market with their unique pre-owned program.Steven also opens up about the difficult decision to close the Chicago location and what he’s learned about the evolving landscape of luxury retail.Topics Covered:The Origin of Leffot: How a passion for shoes turned into a Greenwich Village landmark.The Importance of Fit: Why Steven believes in-person sizing is still superior to online charts.Pre-Owned Luxury: Inside the Leffot Pre-Owned program and the circular economy of high-end shoes.The Chicago Chapter: The honest truth behind closing the Chicago operation.Curating the Best: What Steven looks for in brands like Alden and Edward Green.🔗 https://leffot.com/https://www.instagram.com/leffotGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Why does it take so long to get a premium leather jacket? In this episode, Nick Horween and Phil Kalas sit down with Jason Schott, the 4th generation owner of America’s most iconic leather brand, Schott NYC, to uncover the reality of supply chain bottlenecks, the struggle with Horween leather shortages, and the complexities of manufacturing in the USA.We go beyond the business logistics and dive deep into the technical details that leather enthusiasts care about. From resurrecting a "lost" calfskin tanning formula from 1949 to the nitty-gritty of the new 3sixteen collaboration, we cover it all. We also tackle the hard questions: dealing with color crocking, handling natural leather variation, and ultimately, whether the premium price tag is justified in today's market.In this interview, we cover:The Horween Crisis: Why the world’s best tannery can’t produce enough leather.The Lost Formula: The story of how Horween attempted to resurrect a 1949 calfskin recipe.Manufacturing Reality: Working with labor unions and American factories.The Details: Deep dive into the 3sixteen collaboration, color crocking, and leather jacket patina.🔗 Check out Schott NYC: https://www.schottnyc.com/Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

In this episode of the Full Grain Podcast, we sit down with Carmina Albaladejo from the legendary Mallorcan brand, Carmina Shoemaker. With a history spanning six generations, Carmina has set the gold standard for high-quality footwear, but they aren't stuck in the past.We dive deep into how the family business started, the specific differences between constructing men’s and women’s welted footwear, and how they are using modern 3D scanning technology to make bespoke sizing accessible to everyone. If you’ve ever struggled with sizing or wanted to know what really goes into a $500+ pair of shoes, this episode is for you.In this episode, we cover:The 150-year history of the Albaladejo family.The technical differences between men's and women's shoe construction.How to actually get properly sized for dress shoes.Carmina’s new 3D bespoke technology.Why "Made in Spain" matters in 2025.Check out Carmina: https://www.carminashoemaker.com/us/enGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Stitchdown Boot Camp is in CHICAGO this year! Ben Robison from Stitchdown tells us why to come and shares some updates about the Patina Thunderdome.https://www.stitchdownbootcamp.com/Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Dan Rigele is the former plant manager of the Wilson Sporting Goods factory in Ada, Ohio, where NFL footballs have been made for decades.Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Our most listened to guest is back! Jason Gregory from Makr disusses a wide range of topics from inspiration, AI impacts, architecture, creation, and more.This episode of the "Full Grain Podcast" features a conversation with guest Jason Gregory, founder of MAKR. The discussion covers a variety of topics, including the podcast's popularity and Jason's background in architecture and design. He shares details about a project to design a research facility for animals in Florida and his process of learning new software.The conversation also delves into the challenges of running a business, the balance between craftsmanship and profit, and the complexities of working with different materials like leather. Nick Horween, Phil Kalas, and Jason also speculate on the future of design and the role of technology like AI in the creative process and manufacturing.https://makr.com/Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

In this exclusive interview, Wyatt Gilmore, CEO and founder of Grant Stone, shares his honest opinions on various boots and shoes. He's joined by industry titans Nick Horween of Horween Leather and Phil Kalas from Ashland Leather for a deep dive into footwear preferences, from his absolute favorites to those that just don't make the cut.https://www.grantstoneshoes.com/Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Get the exclusive scoop! In this interview, we're joined by Brett Viberg and Nick Horween. Brett shares exciting details about the upcoming Viberg NYC store, a major milestone for the brand.You'll hear about the new location at 262 Mott St., New York City, and the anticipated grand opening in July 2025. Find out what this new space means for the brand and what you can expect when you visit.https://viberg.com/Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Nick Horween and Phil Kalas answer your urgent leather questions!Ashland Leather Everyday Belt in Black Illini Latigo: https://ashlandleather.com/products/everyday-belt-blackGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Skip Horween describes Horween's Latigo and Illini Latigo variants. Illini Latigo's originates as Horween's version of California Latigo and is best used in belts, straps, and harnesses. Ashland Leather Everyday Belt in Black Illini Latigo: https://ashlandleather.com/products/everyday-belt-blackGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Nick English (Stridewise) and Nick Horween (Horween Leather) discuss regulations and environmental impact of tanneries. Leather Working Group (LWG) audits and rates tanneries for responsible production and sourcing.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Our first ever in-person podcast at Stitchdown's Boot Camp 2024 in Brooklyn, NYC. Nick Horween (Horween Leather) and Phil Kalas (Ashland Leather) explain everything you need to know about leather in under 1 hour.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Nick investigates the question of "why does leather stay relevant in some places and go away in others?". Also discussed: Leather care and Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome & Boot Camp NYC 2024.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Nick and Phil answer your most pressing leather questions from YouTube. Leave your questions for us in the comments.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

All Horween takeover. Nick and Skip Horween discuss the leather industry and trade shows.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Nick Horween explains why shell cordovan (and leather in general) is expensive. Cost breakdown includes hides, material, labor, regulations and more.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/support0:00 Cordovan is expensive21:00 Labor & Regulations26:36 Hides are expensive35:51 Materials are expensive42:48 Leather cost in a final product53:39 FavoritesSupport the show

Every year Horween performs scheduled maintenance on many pieces of equipment that are over 100 years old.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Shuyler Mowe (Nick’s Handmade Boots) and John Culliton (Horween Leather Sales) talk with Nick about boots, leather, challenges and more.https://nicksboots.com/https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Jonathan Ward (ICON 4x4) is an industrial designer and bespoke crafter of vehicles, clothing and leather goods. Jonathan shares his approach and philosophy when making things, and teaches us the importance of being passionate about what you do.ICON 4x4https://www.icon4x4.com/TLC 4x4https://www.tlc4x4.com/J Ward Collectionhttps://www.instagram.com/jwardcollection/Campfire Coatshttps://campfirecoats.com/https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Horween Tanner, Esteban Perez, explains drying methods and leather finishing.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Stitchdown's writer, Zaid Hintzman, asks the best questions for boot fans interested in Horween leather. Nick and Phil explain the features and characteristics in many Horween leathers including shell cordovan, Horsebutt veg, CXL, Predator and more.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Horween Tanner, Esteban Perez, explains leather tanning and retanning. Leave your tanning and finishing questions in the YouTube comments.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Dean Delray is a stand-up comedian, podcaster, design lover and jacket collector.https://www.deandelray.com/https://www.instagram.com/deandelray/?hl=enhttps://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Nick Horween and Phil Kalas answer your most pressing leather questions.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Nick and Phil explore the similarities and differences of Shell Cordovan and Horween’s Essex leather. Both leathers are tanned using the same blend of tree barks. Horween’s Essex leather can also be finished into other products including Horween’s Dublin and Derby.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Nick explains why leather is the choice material for professional NBA basketball and NFL football players. Phil and Nick discuss material options and compare leather and plastic choices.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

First tanned in 1940, Timber Tanned Calf is a legacy leather that is as storied as it is beautiful. The formula was lost. Despite the tannery’s best attempts they have not been able to reproduce it.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch it on YouTube https://youtu.be/OM7_YR03sCoGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Starting with the cowboy origins of Latigo leathers, Nick delves into the details of Cypress, one of Horween’s latest leather offerings. We explore the complexities involved in achieving specific colors like grey and white. Finally, we engage in a conversation about the unique competitive edges that both small and large brands possess.0:00 Topics0:30 Horween Cypress Leather 12:06 Grey Color & “Problem” Colors25:59 Small Brands vs. Established1:06:14 Favoriteshttps://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the Show.Support the show

Ben Robinson from Stitchdown joins Nick Horween and Phil Kalas to chat Thunderdome, Boot Camp, and Leather. Congratulations to all of the winners of the Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome. Boot Camp is October 12-13 in NYC. 0:00 What’s a podcast?0:49 Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome45:25 Boot Camp57:35 Leather Perspectivehttps://www.stitchdownbootcamp.com/https://www.stitchdown.com/https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Asking the hard questions up top: Is Horween Chromexcel (CXL) leather overrated? Is Alden overpriced? Dale from Dale’s Leatherworks shares his opinions with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas.0:00 American Original1:08 Is CXL Overrated?19:12 Is Alden Overpriced?30:03 WWII Boots38:47 Stuck in a boot world from 10+ years ago52:38 Nick Q&A Lightning Round1:00:38 Favoriteshttps://www.youtube.com/@DalesLeatherworkshttps://dalesleatherworks.com/https://ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Sam Parker is the co-founder of Context Clothing. He is one of the individuals behind the creation of the famous Roy Boot by Alden x Context. Context had a 15 year run and closed its doors in 2020. Sam now runs restaurants and bars in Madison Wisconsin: Turn Key Supper Club, Settle Down Tavern, and Ounce By Ounce.https://www.turnkeymadison.com/https://www.settledownmadison.com/https://www.ozbyozmadison.com/0:00 Context Clothing11:34 Raw Denim & Forums14:17 Alden17:13 Roy Boot24:01 Made In Wisconsin Footwear28:57 Crepe Sole32:53 Making Boots Look Great39:30 Turn Key Supper Club41:36 Why did Context close?52:56 Favoriteshttps://ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life.  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Nick and Phil take on your hardest hitting leather questions including leather terms, brain tanning, leather delays, Horween’s Predator leather, horsebutt, sneakers and more.Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to [email protected] the showhttps://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/support0:00 Q&A0:34 Leather Terms10:09 Brain Tanning & Home Tanning13:40 Leather Delays16:49 Horween Predator Leather26:17 Rose Anvil Collab27:11 CXL Horsebutt34:36 Sneakers40:44 Color Variation52:10 Rancourt58:14 Patina Thunderdome1:08:02 FavoritesSupport the show

Nick English is the owner of www.stridewise.com, a blog and YouTube channel focusing on boots and casual durable stuff. A wide range of leather and boot topics are covered including who makes the best shell cordovan, Horween Chromexcel leather, current trends, European style, loafers, veg tanning vs. chrome tanning, and many more.0:00 Best Shell Cordovan1:40 First Shell Cordovan Pair and Care4:30 Horween Chromexcel Leather9:47 Current Trends in the Boot Scene18:59 European Style22:40 Loafers26:56 Veg Tan vs. Chrome Tan35:55 Olive Tanned40:42 Bison42:41 Chamois and Kudu and Wild Boar46:59 Guilt-Free Leather55:39 Things We Got Wrong1:03:43 Aesthetic Appeal1:15:49 Indonesian Boots, Crockett & Jones, Loake, Carmina1:22:01 Social Media Content Game1:29:53 Viberg1:40:29 Horween vs. Shinki Shell Cordovan1:46:31 FavoritesCheck our Stridewise for excellent footwear and style coverage. www.stridewise.comNick English is the owner of www.stridewise.com, a blog and YouTube channel focusing on boots and casual durable stuff. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the showSupport the show

Are you considering aniline leather? Or perhaps a completely painted leather? Join Nick and Phil as they delve into various leather finishes, highlighting aniline leather. Leather can range from unfinished to fully finished, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages.0:00 What is Aniline Leather8:29 Aniline etymology and marketing14:06 Is aniline leather tough?16:27 Leather finishing spectrum: Naked to Full27:37 Finish application methods38:26 Benefits of full finish41:08 Finish break and creasing46:43 Benefits of Aniline Finish51:11 Fully finished products we love58:15 Calf and dress shoes1:01:50 Naked leather products we love1:10:22 Takeaway summary1:11:27 FavoritesNeed a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to [email protected] the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show

Nick and Phil discuss the differences and similarities in “genuine leathers” including suede, split suede, nubuck, rough out, and waxed flesh. How should you care for your suede? Is nubuck more durable than suede? Is a split suede of poor quality? All of the answers are here.0:00 Genuine Leathers0:21 What is suede?9:10 What is rough out and waxed flesh leather?10:27 Marine Field Shoe CXL15:19 Nubuck vs. Suede vs. Rough Out19:53 Natural Variance and Upgrading Leather21:17 What is nubuck leather?30:07 Horween Waxed Flesh CXL34:36 Waterproof Suede37:20 Horween Chamois Leather40:57 Suede Tanneries Charles F. Stead44:03 How to care for suede leather50:17 Is suede leather durable?1:02:18 How suede is made1:12:04 Favorite Suede Products1:16:49 Off Topic FavoritesNeed a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to [email protected] the show

Nick and Phil answer your most pressing leather questions. 0:00 Favorite Episodes4:03 Arabica Lux Leather6:00 Saphir Mirror Gloss9:11 Tanner’s Blend on Shell Cordovan10:27 Favorite and Least Favorite Leathers14:28 Horween’s Crunch Leather16:33 VIberg Double Butt Shell Cordovan Boot22:47 Does Horween Tan Calf?27:11 What Scent Does the Tannery Have?29:02 Horween Shell Cordovan vs. Other Tanneries31:37 English Tan Essex, Dublin, Derby Differences34:54 Horween’s Predator Leather37:02 Difficult Leathers to Work With39:31 Wooly Chromexcel40:27 Cypress Colors43:55 Best Leather for Hard Wearing Warehouse Work47:54 What’s the difference? Chrome Tanned, Veg Tan, or Combo54:01 Essex and Water. Problem?54:10 Introduce Horween Pinnacle Leather56:45 Chromexcel Horsebutt57:23 Marine Field Natural CXL57:53 Seidel Double Shot vs. Horween CXLNeed a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to [email protected] the show

Going deep on leather care. 0:00 1990’s Miami Painting1:55 The Ultimate Leather Care Guide4:40 Nick Horween’s Leather Care Routine7:58 Leather is Designed to Last12:31 Shoe Trees13:44 Phil Kalas’ Leather Care Routine15:48 Air Dry After Washing Leather17:50 Leather Conditioner and Saddle Soap20:59 Use Less Polish23:35 Hard Wax vs. Soft Wax24:35 Leather Polish, Venetian Shoe Cream, Saphir35:49 How Does Horween Polish Shell Cordovan? (Glazing)38:18 Veg Tanned Leather39:59 Do You Condition Your Outsole?41:28 Arnold Horween Jr’s Leather Care Routine45:11 Skip Horween’s Leather Care Routine47:03 Leather Care Products We Hate49:11 Leather Furniture Restoration53:16 Wax on. Wax off.54:09 Mac Method55:00 Polishing Brushes1:03:30 Polishes for Wallets and Belts1:14:21 Importance of Leather Thickness1:20:38 Deer Bone and Ebony Sticks1:26:45 Spit Shine1:29:02 Upcoming Livestream Event1:30:16 Favorite: Christmas1:32:22 Nick’s Therapy SessionNeed a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to [email protected] the show

Part two of two with Weston Kay from Rose Anvil. Check out the Rose Anvil YouTube channel to see boots cut in half.0:00 Alden Indy Boot11:30 Making Mistakes16:15 Responsibility of Being Critical of Brands19:37 Quality Testing Methods22:03 Does Leather Thickness Matter?31:17 Hunting32:55 What happens to leather if people stop eating meat39:47 Finding Nuance42:43 Peaks and Valleys of Life47:04 FavoritesPost-show Note: Alden has never had a bankruptcy. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to [email protected] the show

Part one of two. Cutting apart Weston Kay from Rose Anvil. Weston’s YouTube channel has cut countless boots in half for our sadistic pleasure. He has accumulated a vast amount of footwear and construction knowledge and has become influential with a one million follower base on YouTube. Recently, Rose Anvil has sparked some controversy with a harsh and pointed take on a beloved brand, Alden.0:00 Recording for YouTube2:26 Boot design. Has it all been done?7:53 Do you still like boots?10:24 Form vs. Function12:41 Male Fashion Advice21:25 Being Camera Shy22:44 How big is Rose Anvil?25:25 New Rose Anvil Product30:42 What keeps you interested in boots?32:32 What is a good boot?36:33 Shell Cordovan Engineer Boots39:51 Alden ControversyNeed a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to [email protected] the show

Sad to have missed the first ever Boot Camp. Let us know how it was? Today we are making up for it by asking Nick to review some of the newly developed leathers at Horween.Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to [email protected] the show

Answering the important questions. Nick Horween explains why hot stuffing imparts a great leather scent. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to [email protected] the show

Nick Horween explains the rarity of shell cordovan, rare shell colors, and supply challenges.Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to [email protected] the show

Meet Paul Hletko, the mastermind behind FEW Spirits, a craft distillery in Chicago that creates award-winning spirits with a twist. Paul shares his insights on how to savor the flavors of craft spirits, what makes a good fermentation base, how barrel aging works, and what distinguishes bourbon, scotch, and single malt. He also talks about the latest trends in non-alcoholic drinks and how they compare to their boozy counterparts.0:00 Collaborations3:11 Craft Spirit Appreciation 10124:42 Getting into Distilling32:53 How Spirits are Made32:23 Fermentation Source: Comparing Corn vs. Wheat46:58 Before Few Spirits48:56 Barrel Aging58:38 Bourbon, Scotch, White Oak, Coopers, Single Malt1:12:20 What is Few Spirits known for?1:21:25 Non-Alcohol Beverage Trends1:25:44 US Government Formula Approvals from TTB1:28:21 Favorites https://www.fewspirits.com/Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to [email protected] the show

Brian Hahn is the co-founder of Nomad Goods. They make innovative tech accessories for the nomadic lifestyle.0:00 Work from anywhere4:16 At Best Buy and Boutiques7:45 Sourcing Horween Leather and Materials13:01 Manufacturing with Natural Leather17:19 The Best Material21:10 Designing for Different Markets23:12 Selling on Amazon26:13 Leather Finish and Variation30:16 Sustainability36:26 Apple Watch41:31 Headphones and Audiophile43:50 Do Nothing51:05 Design Philosophy, Designing Details55:55 Quality Control1:01:51 Made in China1:05:22 Ecco Leather1:09:12 Horween Dublin vs. Shell Cordovan1:13:33 Made in USA1:16:56 Vapor Deposited Titanium1:20:34 Metal Injection Molding MIM1:24:13 Upcoming Nomad Products1:24:52 Working with Apple1:27:31 Augmented and Virtual Reality1:32:55 A No Leather Future?1:35:28 Favoriteshttps://nomadgoods.com/Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to [email protected] the show

What do you get when you cross a cow, a horse, a bison, and a deer? No, it’s not a joke. It’s a leather tannery lesson from Nick Horween and Phil Kalas. Nick and Phil have a combined 30+ years of leather tannery experience. They explain how shell cordovan, cow, steer, horse, bison, and deer skin vary in their features and functions. Which one is the most suitable for a formal shoe? A rugged boot?0:00 Always Workin’1:01 Leather Hide Types2:33 Coarse vs. Fine Grain Character3:53 Performance Characteristic5:34 Best Leather for Dress Shoes9:35 Deerskin12:00 Most Casual Hide12:11 Grain Characteristics 17:28 Fat Wrinkles vs. Draw22:38 CXL on Different Hides24:52 Tannages and Pit Tanning31:32 Horween Shell Cordovan Differences48:28 FavoritesNeed a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to [email protected] the show

The Inside Scoop on Buckles, Hardware, and LeatherIn this episode, we sit down with Hugh Harriss, the 4th generation proprietor of Buckleguy. Hugh shares his insights on the history of leather, buckles, and hardware, the story of how Buckleguy got started, and the challenges of sourcing hardware and leather. He also discusses upcoming Buckleguy products, and offers advice on choosing the right hardware for your projects.This is a must-listen for anyone who is interested in leathercraft, DIY, or simply wants to learn more about the world of buckles and hardware.https://www.buckleguy.com/0:00 Reconnecting2:17 How hardware is created9:20 Hardware is a challenge17:03 How Buckleguy got started30:22 Why brass?39:14 Sourcing and selling leather44:38 Dry splitting vs. wet splitting55:29 Upcoming products1:07:27 FavoritesNeed a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to [email protected] the show

Curtis is the CEO, founder, and the energy for Portland Leather Goods and Patina.https://www.portlandleathergoods.com/https://patina.com/0:00 Coming to America2:22 Starting Portland Leather7:25 Leather12:16 Forecasting16:19 Hide Market, Material Delays21:24 Leather for Women35:00 Best Leather?43:23 Mystery Box45:36 Scale54:08 Growing in a Pandemic56:16 Sustainability - Recraftable Boot? 1:00:36 Thursday Boot1:07:41 Future Products1:11:10 Made in USA1:13:45 Tannery Leather Working Group RelevanceNeed a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to [email protected] the show

Back in the saddle again. We’re back with another podcast for the inquisitive minds. Join us, Nick Horween and Phil Kalas, as we delve into the intriguing worlds of patina and preservation, from the leather boots that develop a rich character in the Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome contest, to the ancient human remains that are frozen in time in peat bogs.0:00 A Beautiful Voice0:24 Real Estate Market2:00 Chat GPT Asks Nick8:18 Patina Thunderdome Recap26:15 Bog BodiesNeed a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to [email protected] the show

Matt Foster started Maverick Leather 40 years ago. He has a lifetime of leather information. From their new home in Bend, Oregon Maverick sells Horween seconds and leather from many tanneries.0:00 Eye Surgery1:16 Horween Seconds, Reselling Leather9:58 USA Leather Tanneries16:58 What leathers don’t exist anymore24:26 Environmental Regulations38:18 Maverick’s Customer Base32:51 Tandy Leather34:54 Leaving California for Oregon41:51 Family Business45:16 Horween Dublin Wax Finish47:49 Favorite Leather50:38 Saddle and Harness Makers53:59 Leon Mexico55:13 Tanneries in Chicago57:14 Trends and Cycles1:01:18 New Car Smell, Scented Leather1:10:51 Salz Tannery Santa Cruz1:12:18 Nose Blind1:13:22 Hides and Exotics1:16:32 Favoriteshttps://maverickleathercompany.com/https://www.instagram.com/maverickleather/Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life?  Ashland Leather has you covered.Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to [email protected] the show