History Unhemmed
by History Unhemmed
Explore fashion history's less "finished" side with us! 'History Unhemmed' is a podcast that explores sartorial scandals, fashionable foibles, controversial couture, and other famous...and infamous moments in the history of fashion and dress. Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmed/support
Episodes
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A Statement in Silk and Wool: The Sapeurs of the Congo
This episode takes a look at the vibrant and evocative members of La SAPE, the Society of Ambiance-Makers and Elegant People, or the Sapeurs. Set against the backdrop of Congo's colonial past and post-independence struggles, clothing is about much more than just being fashionable. For the Sapeur,...
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A Cardinal, A Queen, and A Con: The Affair of the Necklace
What happens when fashion, politics, and fraud collide in the glittering halls of Versailles? Tune in and find out about this gem-uine (yeah that really was awful) controversy! In this episode, we’ll take a closer look at L’Affaire du Collier de la Reine or the Affair of the Queen’s Necklace.…
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Rethinking the Flow: Unpacking Menstrual Wear
And (after an eternity)…we’re back! Join us today as we take a closer look at the fascinating (and perhaps a bit messy) history of period garments. Not breeches and corsets à la Bridgerton period dress, but the development of things like menstrual belts, vaginal packs, early tampons, and the rise...
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Welcome to History Unhemmed!
What is History Unhemmed ? Allow us to introduce ourselves in 30ish seconds! Be sure to tune in - new episodes drop Monday April 14!
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Fashioning Womanhood in Modern China: The Qipao or Cheongsam (PART I)
In this episode, we unravel the origins of the qipao or cheongsam. This garment is inextricably linked to the formation of modern China and has origins going back to at least the Qing Dynasty. Join us as we explore its role as a symbol of elegance and empowerment. If you have any requests,...
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Spotted and Spot On: The History of the Polka Dot
Join us as we explore the fascinating and multi-faceted history of the polka dot. These innocuous little spots contain multitudes, from technological advancements to a risqué dance craze. If you have any requests or questions, or simply feel like saying hello, drop us a line at...
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The Glamorous, Gritty, and Groundbreaking Life of April Ashley
Today's episode delves into the life of April Ashley, a fashion icon and a pioneering figure in the transgender community. Despite facing tremendous challenges and frequent discrimination, Ashley emerged as a resilient advocate for transgender rights, contributing to greater awareness and...
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A Bit of a Stretch: The Rise of the Elastic Waistband
EPISODE NOTES: It's that time of year again! Hopefully you have your "Eatin' Pants" clean, mended, and ready to roll. Enjoy today's episode, and a little snack, as we explore the history of the elastic waistband and your favorite stretchy slacks! https://www.patreon.com/historyunhemmed...
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Hell for Leather: A Short and (Mostly) Factual History of Human Skin as a Textile
EPISODE NOTES: Leather Face and Norman Bates and their penchant for human skin is the stuff of horror movies and fuel for more than a few nightmares. Sometimes, however, the truth is weirder (and creepier) than fiction! https://www.patreon.com/historyunhemmed...
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Cones of Shame: Capirotes, Corozas, Dunce Caps, and Hoods
EPISODE NOTES: From the flagellant confraternities of the Middle Ages to the penitents of of the Spanish Inquisition, from Dunce Caps to the uniform one of the most hated terrorist organizations in the United States, the long face-covering cap has quite the colorful and interwoven tale to tell....
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Clothed in the Vapors of Dawn: The Rise and Fall of Dhaka Muslin
EPISODE NOTES: For millennia, Dhaka was renowned for its exquisite cotton textiles. The resplendent fabrics from Bengal were highly sought after in markets from China and Indonesia to France and England. Particularly muslin. In the late 18th century the British ultimately murdered Dhaka Muslin....
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Imagining Ourselves: The History of the Fashion Doll (PART 3)
EPISODE NOTES: Holy cow! We've hit our 20th episode! In the second half of the twentieth century, Barbie and other fashion doll makers grapple with issues of identity and representation. THe third of History Unhemmed's three-episode segment on the history of the fashion doll. If you would like…
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Plastic Princesses: The History of the Fashion Doll (PART 2)
EPISODE NOTES: In the twentieth century, the pandora doll had disappeared as a professional tool. The relationship between fashion and dolls, however, remained a very close one. After WWII, the plastic fashion doll for children arose from some less than wholesome beginnings, to take the world by...
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From Palaces to Playthings: The History of the Fashion Doll (PART 1)
EPISODE NOTES: She inspired fashion trends on a global scale. She taught young girls and grown women alike about the dressing styles of royal courts across Europe and how to wield fashion as tool…and a weapon. Before there was Barbie, there was Pandora. This episode is the first of three…
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The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire of 1911 and Its Lasting Legacy
EPISODE NOTES: The shirtwaist emerged in the mid-late nineteenth century. It soon became a symbol of the modern working woman, and by the early twentieth century, shirtwaists were mass manufactured and widely available. However, this would come at a devastating cost to the workers (mostly women)...
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The Star Spangled Legacy of Nudie Cohn and Manuel Cuevas
EPISODE NOTES: "It's better to be looked over than overlooked." So was the motto of Nudie's Rodeo Tailors. The company's brash and bombastic frontman Nudie Cohn, an early twentieth-century Ukrainian Jewish immigrant. From humble origins, Nudie carved out a name for himself as the king of sparkly...
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Dressing The Social Register: The Almost Secret Life of Ann Lowe
EPISODE NOTES: From humble beginnings in rural Alabama, Ann Cole Lowe rose to become one of the most sought after fashion designers of the twentieth century. Her life story is one of tremendous highs and cruel hardships. Tune in to hear about New York high society's "best kept secret" of the...
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Masked Mayhem: Mardi Gras Costumes in New Orleans (PARTIE 2)
EPISODE NOTES: Dressing up in costumes and masks has been at the heart of carnival celebrations since the founding of the city in the 1718. In the twentieth century, new groups emerged challenging the status quo and reshaping the festivities into the celebration that is the biggest tourist draw…
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Race, Religion, and Revelry: Mardi Gras Costumes in New Orleans (PARTIE 1)
EPISODE NOTES: Every year, one of the biggest parties in the United States takes place in the 300-year-old streets of New Orleans. This episode traces the history of Mardi Gras and its costuming practices in New Orleans up to the twentieth century. Support us at :...
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Undressed for Success: Red Underwear for a Happy New Year
EPISODE NOTES: Eat your greens and black eyed peas, make your champagne or whiskey toasts and enjoy some fireworks. The New Year brings with it many traditions, and in many parts of the world that includes wearing red underwear for luck. Tune in to delve into the origins of this tradition and why…
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Decked Out and Ready to Sleigh (Slay): The History of the Holiday Sweater
EPISODE NOTES: It's not the holiday season without a tacky and over-the-top sweater! This episode will examine how the popular festive garment came to be. Support us at : https://www.patreon.com/historyunhemmed https://anchor.fm/historyunhemmed/support Follow us on: Instagram: @history_unhemmed...
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Hot off the Dresses! Paper Garments in 20th Century Europe and North America
EPISODE NOTES: Sort of a continuation on the subject of Episode 9, this episode will explore the rise and subsequent fall of paper fashion trends in Europe and North American through the 20th century. Support us at : https://www.patreon.com/historyunhemmed…
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Ritual, Regalia, and Rags: Paper Clothing in Japan and Korea
EPISODE NOTES: Though paper is not the first material for clothing we typically think of, it has been used to make garments going back centuries. This episode will explore the that long-lived tradition in Korea and Japan. Support us at : https://www.patreon.com/historyunhemmed...
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A Dress Possessed: The Wedding Gown of Anna Baker
EPISODE NOTES: Everyone loves a good ghost story, so settle in and snuggle up as today's episode examines the story of a heartbroken bride to be, an iron-willed business man, and a haunted wedding dress! Support us at : https://www.patreon.com/historyunhemmed...
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A Most Unfashionable Murder: Marie Manning and The Bermondsey Horror
EPISODE NOTES: What better way to kick off spooky season that with a grisly Victorian murder? Tune in for a complicated tale of love, betrayal, murder, and a not-so-little black dress! Support us at : https://www.patreon.com/historyunhemmedhttps://anchor.fm/historyunhemmed/support Follow us on:...
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Defiant Design: The Zoot Suit (PART 2)
EPISODE NOTES: This episode is a follow up to episode 5 where we got into the nitty gritty of the zoot suit’s origins. This episode is dedicated to the bloody conflict that surrounded the suit nationally and internationally in the 1940s, including the infamous zoot suit riots of Los Angeles....
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Clothed in Controversy: The Zoot Suit (PART 1)
EPISODE NOTES: The first of two episodes dedicated to a controversial and incredibly consequential piece of twentieth century menswear. This episode will delve into the history of the zoot suit and the different groups and individuals who helped bring it about and how it became an icon of social...
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Fine Feathered Fellows: The 18th Century Macaroni
EPISODE NOTES: With his large coiffure and bright clothes, the Macaroni was a ubiquitous image in pamphlets, newspapers, and magazine in the 18th century. His unusual appearance and behavior made him a target and an icon. Support us at : https://www.patreon.com/historyunhemmed...
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Dressed to Empress: Cixi and the Refashioning of Qing Ladies' Court Attire
EPISODE NOTES: Today we’re going to talk about the Dowager Empress Cixi (1835–1908) of late Qing Dynasty (1644-1991) China. A complicated and controversial historical figure, she ultimately rewrote the court dress code as she brought China into the twentieth century. Support us at :...
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Infamy and Imagination: Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dali’s Collaborative Works
EPISODE NOTES: When two creative powerhouses get together, madness (and a little lobster) is not off the menu! Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dali were individually massive personalities and iconic figures. Together, they blew up and blurred lines between art and fashion. Support us at :...
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Unlocked: The Tale of the Medieval Chastity Belt
EPISODE NOTES: In today's episode, we will be discussing the medieval chastity belt. We will talk about what it was, where it came from, and how the idea has evolved over the years to the present day. Support us at : https://www.patreon.com/historyunhemmed…
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About this show
Explore fashion history's less "finished" side with us! 'History Unhemmed' is a podcast that explores sartorial scandals, fashionable foibles, controversial couture, and other famous...and infamous moments in the history of fashion and dress. Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmed/support
Hosted by
History Unhemmed