PODCAST · leisure
Lone Wolf Surfer
by Matthew
Straight outta South Bay SoCal, I’m an avid surfer in my early forties who still has the “grom stoke.” Despite being an intermediate surfer at best, I’m a stickler for proper etiquette, and in the thickest of crowds, I do my best to find that gap in the lineup to catch a few all to myself. Tune in to hear talks about surf philosophy, struggles in aggro/semi-pro breaks, the successes of scoring unmolested waves, travel, and genuine stoke/psyche.
Episodes
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S3E14: #41 Diamond Head
Scored last week, surfed a new spot (Kewalos) and still hitting Diamond Head. Ortho also confirmed I need surgery on my shoulder.
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S3E13: #35 White Plains on 🔥
Sesh #34 was also at WP on Fri. Oct 7th. Surfed with the wife, had Lanikai Juice, saw Francis Guys, had ramen in Aiea and a to-go box of malasadas from the mobile truck. Chee-Hoo!
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S3E12: #33 Diamond Head
Diamond Head with Bri. Lost Puddle Jumper HP Lib Tech.
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S3E11: #20-23/ Swell of the Decade
#20: 20220711 (Mon) Diamond Head w/ Francis. Lost Puddle Jumper HP Libtech. #21: 20220719 (Tue) White Plains w/ Freak Flag Lib Tech. #22: 20220720 (Wed) White Plains w/ Zippifish #23: 20220726 (Tue) White Plains w/ Zippifish
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S3E10: Diamond Head onshore stoke!
Going through a rough time not being able to live in my apartment during renovations, but here’s a recap of a fun sesh at Diamond Head.
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S3E9: Oahu Residents #18-23
#18: 05 June, Sun- White Plains #19: 08 June, Wed- Diamond Head #20: 18 June, Sat- WP #21: 19 June, Sun (Father’s Day)- DH #22: 20 June, Mon- DH (best) #23: 26 June, Sun- WP. I talk about what it’s been like living here, shoulder issues, and during White Plains and Diamond Head.
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S3E8: #17 Last Sesh Here (Man. Bch.)
14 May Sat: Tiny and clean but too small Last session, lackluster send off, only 17 sessions this year is beyond weak, and the future of my shoulder and what it means for my surfing.
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S3E7: #14-16 Church (San O. / Trestles)
24 April Sun: Solid 30 April Sat: Small, Crowded & Inconsistent 07 May Sat: Big, no shape - Found my Libtech boards - Shoulder is still ass - still moving to Oahu
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S3E6: #11 - 13 Oahu
Sessions took place while going house hunting for a week on Oahu with my wife. We stayed with my boy Francis in Makakilo.
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S3E5: (#8-10)Torn Rotator Cuff Confirmed
#8, 9 & 10 - Bolsa Chica. Sessions took place on a clean but tiny Fri. Feb. 4th, an onshore Sat., and a stellar (but walled) Sun. Unfortunately, I have a tear in my rotator cuff, so I’ll be out of the water for a while. Also, I have big news to report…
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S3E4: #6 & 7 - Tiny Bolsa
Sessions took place on 22 & 23 January, Sat. & Sun. with my wife and Alligator Alex.
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S3E3: #4 & 5 - Epic Church / Closed Out Bolsa
Sessions took place 15 & 16 Jan.
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S3E2: #2 & 3 - Hate El Porto/ Love Bolsa
Sessions took place on the weekend of Jan. 8th & 9th.
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S3E1: First Session of the Year!
In this episode I go over how my first session went, but first I talk about my shoulder issues, back issues, and how 2022 is looking like a “realization year” that my body can’t handle much physical activity any more.
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Ep.59: #114 One Armed Bandit
In this session I relive session 114 at Bolsa Chica while surfing with an injured shoulder. Thanks for listening!
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Ep.58: #111-113 SHOULDER INJURY
Mon. Nov. 29th/ El Porto Sat & Sun. Dec. 11th & 12th/ Bolsa Chica
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Ep.57: #109 & #110, Bolsa & Lowers
Hit Bolsa Chica and actually surfed Lower Trestles for the first time in years! Thanks for listening!
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Ep. 56: #108 Oahu Trip!
So sessions 102 & 103 were at Bolsa Chica, before the trip. My wife and I were in Oahu from 19-25 Nov. We surfed White Plains, Makaha, Chun’s twice, and Diamond Head. My nipples are raw. Enjoy the show and thank you for listening!
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#101 Marriage Anniversary Session
Bolsa Chica, major SCORE on mid-day session. First decent winter swell sesh.
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Session 100!!! El Porto Pleasure
Death to the dawn patroller…birth of the mid-day marauder. Local session with my boy Dais!
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98-99: Quality Sessions over Quantity
#98: Oct 10, Sun. / Church w/wife #99: Oct 17, Sun. / Church w/ wife Quintuple-S sesh: Sunday, Surf, Sushi, Shrooms, Sex
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#97: Oil Spill at HB
#94: 28 Sept, Tue. Bolsa Chica solo afternoon, fun 1st hour then wind #95: 30 Sept, Thu. MB solo, closed out #96: 01 Oct, Fri. Porto solo, ass #97: 03 Oct, Bolsa Chica w/wife, lost heat, oil spill.
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#93: Losing track of sessions
Losing track…I summarize my last 6 sessions since the last post. Local has been CHEEKS as far as waves.
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#80-87: Surf consistently, but balance your life.
#80: 15AUG Sun Church w/ Wife #81: 22AUG Sun Church w/wife #82: 30AUG Mon MB w/wife #83: 31AUG Tue Porto w/Rick #84: 01SEP Wed Porto solo #85: 05SEP Sun Bolsa w/wife #86: 06SEP Mon Bolsa w/wife #87: 12 SEP Sun Bolsa w/wife
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Sessions 76-79: Church/Bolsa/Man. Bch.
#76: Sun 25 July/ Church w/ wife Sun 01 Aug/ Church w/ wife Sun 08 Aug/ Bolsa w/ wife #79: Sun 14 Aug/ MB w/ Jonathan. Dealing with major anxiousness, hoping I can transfer with my company to Oahu. Only surfing once a week to take care of things in case my wife and I move. Thanks for tuning in!
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#74-75: Bolsa Chica and Church
In today’s pod, I go over a lackluster day at Bolsa Chica last week and a kid day session at Church yesterday with the wife. Mon 12 July/ Bolsa Chica (solo) Sun 18 July/ Church w/ Bri. Thanks for tuning in! You can check out the Instagram page at...
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#72-73: Bolsa Chica & Manhattan Bch.
SAT 10July: Bolsa Chica w/Bri SUN 11July: Manhattan Bch. w/Bri. In today’s episode I start with an intro how I’m over social media, and then I discuss crowd issues at Bolsa and then unexpected events that lead to the MB session. Thanks for tuning in!
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#66-71 Back from Vacation
66Sat 19 June- Church w/Bri 67Mon 21 June-Bolsa Chica w/Bri 68Tue 29 June- Church w/Alex 69Sat 03 July- Rosecrans w/Bri, Garr, Dave 70Sun 04 July- Bolsa w/Bri 71Mon 05 July- Manhattan Beach w/Bri, KK I’ve been gone for so long. I had trouble recollecting my sessions, but I tried…Thanks for tuning...
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#65: Best Backside Attempt 2021
Thank Surfline for the “Fair to Good” rating, which spawned every grandpa and grom to paddle out this morning. I did make the right board choice though, and there was a negative encounter that lead to a very positive one. Thanks for tuning in! You can check out the Instagram page at...
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#65/ Manhattan Beach Drained Tide
First day off of the work week, hit the local surf, and I for sure made the wrong board choice. Thanks for tuning in! You can check out the Instagram page at https://www.instagram.com/p/CLcfDaplVck/?igshid=xnoxpz1uyk3d .
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#64: El Porto/ Sunny SoCal Day
Woke up this morning and passed on the dawn patrol because it looked like ass. Late morning cams looked a lot better. Hit the Porto lot and had some sunny, onshore fun at 45th St. on the Skipper.
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62-63: Manhattan Beach & Epoxy Al
01JUN: El Porto with the wife / 02JUN: MB with Epoxy Al. In today’s episode I go over my last few sessions and talk about some personal drama with others I surf with. Thanks for tuning in!
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59-61: HB and El Porto / 1 mo barrel
12 May: South side HB Pier with Rick. 25 May: Man. Bch. w/ Epoxy Al (barrel) 26 May: Man. Bch. / surfed like shit
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52-58: my best barrel at Oceanside
Here’s a summary of the last 7 sessions, which includes my best in-and-out barrel that I caught in Oceanside, as well as a humbling local session at Rosecrans, El Porto.
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#36 & 37, Bolsa Chica & El Porto (almost barreled)
I surfed Bolsa Chica on Sunday with the wife and Epoxy Alex. It was an onshore, choppy session that only had a short window of good conditions. But best session I’ve had in a while took place this morning. Check out the pod and hear about how I almost got barreled. Thanks for tuning in! You can...
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#35: Bolsa Chica w/ Epoxy Alex
Scored a short window of 2-3ft clean, offshore surf at Bolsa Chica State Beach. Thanks for tuning in! You can check out the Instagram page at https://www.instagram.com/p/CLcfDaplVck/?igshid=xnoxpz1uyk3d .
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Sesh #25,26,27 Bolsa Chica, Porto, and 26th St. MB
I punch through the curtain of a baby barrel at Bolsa Chica! In the intro, I get a little deep on y’all and talk about life. Thanks for tuning in, and check out the Instagram page for some content at https://www.instagram.com/p/CLcfDaplVck/?igshid=xnoxpz1uyk3d
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Sesh #14: Colternator Fish at 26th St. / Fun and Crowded
In today’s intro, I am just pulling up to score free parking at 26th St., Manhattan Beach, for the dawn patrol. For the second half of this podcast, I discuss my surfing experience, specifically on the Colternator Fish. Check the link below if you’d like more info about Colt Surfboards, and check...
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Sesh #11: Not Enough Board and Happy to be Dry and Alive (El Porto)
Despite this bad weather we’re supposed to get, the local surf has been on FIRE. I paddled out on the wrong equipment and damn near had a heart attack because I was out of my comfort zone. Tune in for more details and thanks for listening.
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Sesh #9: Free Parking on a Sunday
In this episode I briefly discuss how surf forecasts can be wrong sometimes, how I missed a good surf day on Saturday, and how scoring free parking on a crowded late-morning surf check can be a Godsend. Thanks for tuning in!
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Sesh # 8: Manhattan Beach; I got werked!
Today’s podcast is about this morning’s humbling experience at 26th Street, Manhattan Beach. Tune in to hear about how a few bad decisions has me licking my wounds and feeling like I got my ass kicked. Plus, my wife cuts off the podcast twice by calling me while she’s at work, so prepare for…
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7surfs: Church Session, Manhattan Beach Session, and being a surf mentor
I catch up on 19 Jan.’s session at Church beach with my padawan surfer Alex and also on this morning’s session at Manhattan Beach. I discuss a few surf pointers, etiquette, and my general stoke that I’m feeling at the moment. Thanks for tuning in!
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26th Street Manhattan Beach and Bolsa Chica
A little late on the MB session, but got to get my local card stamped for the first time in a while. At Bolsa Chica this morning, I get burned, and my noob buddy gets werked!
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S2E4 Surfed Church/Trestles again on 09 Jan.
Having a hard time lone-wolfing it. Surfing with crowds is hard. Getting frustrated with how many people are in the lineup during COVID. Thanks for listening!
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S2E3 Hunting Beach Cliffs (Dog Beach)
Surfed Huntington Beach Cliffs for the first time in a while. No lie, I “tucked tail” and ran from the South Bay where the waves are too big for an average surfer like myself. I posted a short clip of the surf at https://www.instagram.com/lonewolf_surfer/ . I plan on surfing Church/Trestles...
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S2E1 & E2: Bolsa Chica, 2021 Resolutions, and Church Beach (Trestles)
Another fun session at Bolsa Chica State Beach with the Surfing Librarian, even caught some of the new WNW energy before the end of the session. I also get deeper into 2021 New Year’s resolutions. Episode 2 accidentally got attached, where I discuss a lackluster Church Beach session and how I’m...
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S1E6 Church Beach (Trestles)
Apologies for lame energy on this episode. Took too many edibles and hits off the vape. Thanks for tuning in!
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S1E5: Bolsa Chica Wave Buffet
Tune in for today’s very rare, classic, and fun Bolsa Chica surf session cohosted with The Surfing Librarian. Thanks for tuning in, and leave a message at https://anchor.fm/matthew5413/message or send an email if you’d like to comment.
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S1E4: Manhattan Beach (30th St.) — Local Unko Regulates
Today we describe our dumpy session at 30th Street, Manhattan Beach. This episode is cohosted with my wife Bri the Surfing Librarian. Second half of the episode is dedicated to the local unko who sounded this guy who kept back-paddling everyone. Thanks for listening! If you have any comments…
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S1E3: El Porto Sesh (45th St.) -- Getting Snaked
Today I let you all know how today’s session went and how I got snaked by my fellow El Porto brethren. Tune in to hear about my perspective on getting snaked and how I deal with it. If you have any comments, feel free to email me at [email protected] or leave voice message at...
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ABOUT THIS SHOW
Straight outta South Bay SoCal, I’m an avid surfer in my early forties who still has the “grom stoke.” Despite being an intermediate surfer at best, I’m a stickler for proper etiquette, and in the thickest of crowds, I do my best to find that gap in the lineup to catch a few all to myself. Tune in to hear talks about surf philosophy, struggles in aggro/semi-pro breaks, the successes of scoring unmolested waves, travel, and genuine stoke/psyche.
HOSTED BY
Matthew
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