PODCAST · sports
The Surfer’s Library
by Billy Jack
I’m just a surfer reading about surfing so you can listen to stories about surfing when you’re not surfing. Stay stoked!
Episodes
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S3 E7: Not Done Yet - Chapters 15, 16 & 17
Chapters 15 through 17 of Corky Carroll's autobiography Not Done Yet. Corky experiences the highs of TV stardom, along with some of the tougher moments in his personal life. Behind the surfing legend, the success, and the larger than life personality, there's a real person dealing with family...
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S3 E6: Not Done Yet - Chapter 13 & 14
Today we continue Corky Carroll's autobiography, Not Done Yet, with Chapters 13 & 14. We left Corky last episode at a cross roads. He had just hung up his jersey and retired from surfing and had parted ways with his surfboard company. We pick up with Corky making a big change to get away from the...
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S3 E5: Not Done Yet - Chapters 11 & 12
This episode we're diving into Chapters 11 & 12 of Corky Carroll's Not Done Yet, and Corky's story takes some seriously unexpected turns. Corky launches his own surfboard company, Space Sticks Drama with Gerry Lopez at the 1971 Pipeline Masters Corky tries his hand at becoming a musician And...
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S3 E4: Not Done Yet - Ch 8, 9 & 10
Today we’re diving into Chapters 8, 9, and 10 of Not Done Yet by the legendary Corky Carroll. Another episode packed with great stories from surfing’s golden era, told by one of the greatest surfers to ever do it. We’ll hear about Corky’s contribution to the shortboard revolution, how he won the...
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S3 E3: Not Done Yet - Ch 7: The Summer of ... ”The Endless Summer”
This episode we learn all about Corky's involvment in the greatest surf flick ever... The Endless Summer. Tune in and hear about the cross country promo trip, getting lost in Indiana, getting punched in the face by Bruce Brown and much much more. If you’d like to help support the podcast, you can...
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S3 E2: Not Done Yet - Chapters 5 & 6
This episode we continue reading Not Done Yet by Corky Carroll. Chapters 5 and 6 to be exact. Join me as we learn about Corky's first trips to the islands and his first time surfing the famous breaks of Oahu. We'll also learn how he became the very first professional surfer in the world. Let's...
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S3 E1: Corky Carroll: Not Done Yet (Chapters 1-4)
We’re kicking off summer and Season 3, with one of our all-time favorite surfers, Corky Carroll, and his autobiography Not Done Yet. Now, if you were listening last season, you probably remember we already read a little bit from this book back on Episode 20. Well, I loved it so much that I…
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S2 E28: In the Shadow of Waimea by Chris Ahrens
Today’s episode dives into Hansen: The Adventures of a Surfer, Skydiver, Team Roper, Entrepreneur by Don Hansen with Chris Ahrens, the story of a true original whose life went far beyond surfing. In this episode, we focus on Chapter 5, “In the Shadow of Waimea,” where Hansen spends a pivotal year...
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S2 E27: The Stylist: Country Livin’ With Bill Hamilton by Drew Kampion
Today we’re jumping back into The Way of the Surfer by Drew Kampion, reading “The Stylist: Country Livin’ With Bill Hamilton.” I’m a big Hamilton fan, so I’m especially stoked to bring you this one. If you’ve been around surfing for a while, you know he’s more than just Laird’s dad, Bill Hamilton...
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S2 E26: Women On Waves - Chapt 23: The Resurgence of Glide
Today, in our continued tribute to women surfers and women’s history month I will be reading chapter 23 of Jim Kempton’s book Women on Waves: A Cultural History of Surfing: From Ancient Goddesses and Hawaiian Queens to Malibu Movie Stars and Millennial Champions. It’s titled The Resurgence of...
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S2 E25: Women On Waves - Chapt 6: Hollywood Malibu Magic 1945–1958
Chapter 6 of Women on Waves: A Cultural History of Surfing from Ancient Goddesses and Hawaiian Queens to Malibu Movie Stars and Millennial Champions by Jim Kempton moves us into the early twentieth century, when surfing began spreading beyond Hawai‘i and into popular culture. During this time,...
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S2 E24: Women On Waves (Preface & Chapt 1)
In honor of Women’s History Month, I’m diving into Jim Kempton’s incredible book, Women on Waves: A Cultural History of Surfing: From Ancient Goddesses and Hawaiian Queens to Malibu Movie Stars and Millennial Champions. This book is dedicated to restoring women to their rightful place in the...
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S2 E23: Excerpts from Windansea: Life, Death, Resurrection by Chris Ahrens
Today’s episode is a heavy one, in the best way. We’re diving into Chris Ahren's latest book Windansea: Life, Death, Resurrection. I’ve been chomping at the bit to crack this book open since the day it landed in my hands. This book isn’t just about surfing, it’s about place, identity, loss, and...
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S2 E22: John Severson, Inventing Surf Culture by Drew Kampion
Today I’ll be reading from a book I recently picked up titled The Way of the Surfer: Living It, 1935 to Tomorrow by our friend Drew Kampion. The Way of the Surfer profiles thirteen incredible names from surf history: Woody Brown, John Severson, Dick Brewer, Nat Young, Billy Hamilton, Rolf…
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S2 E21: Masters of the Universe by Matt Warshaw
This episode we revisit Matt Warshaw’s book Surfriders: In Search of the Perfect Wave and read a story called “Masters of the Universe” In this story Warshaw takes us straight into the pressure cooker of professional surfing, where talent, ego, friendship, and fate all collide. We drop in at...
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S2 E20: Excerpts from 'Not Done Yet' by Corky Carroll
This episode we dig into chapters 1, 2 and 3 of Corky Carroll's autobiography Not Done Yet. From growing up in Southern California to chasing waves, contests, and a life shaped by the ocean, Corky’s early chapters set the foundation for one of surfing’s most influential figures. These opening…
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S2 E19: Selected excerpts from Mr. Sunset: The Jeff Hakman Story, by Phil Jarratt
This episode we are excited to read selected excerpts (chapters 8 & 9) from Phil Jarratt's incredible book Mr. Sunset: The Jeff Hakman Story. Jeff Hakman was born in California in 1948, and by the age of eight his father had already set him on a surfboard. Four years later, the family moved to...
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S2 E18: Young, Loud and Shameless
This episode we are reading Jamie Brisick's short story Young, Loud and Shameless from the book: The Eighties at Echo Beach. It captures the wild, neon-soaked, punk-influenced surf scene of early ’80s Orange County and dives into the youthful chaos of the Echo Beach crew, kids who surfed hard,...
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S2 E17: Death of a Legend
This episode we’re diving into one of the most powerful stories in modern surf history, the rise and tragic loss of big-wave icon Mark Foo. In Matt Warshaw’s story 'Death of a Legend', we trace Foo’s journey from a driven, stylish Hawaiian charger to one of the most recognizable names in big wave...
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S2 E16: Morning at Freshwater
This episode features a story from Matt Warshaw’s book Surfriders: In Search of the Perfect Wave. It’s called “Morning at Freshwater.” When this story was written in the 1990’s, most people believed Duke Kahanamoku introduced surfing to Australia in 1914. Today, we know there were earlier…
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S2 E15: Excerpts From Greg Noll: Art of the Surfboard
The Greg Noll Da Cat model surfboard is one of the most sought after surfboards of all time. One early first generation board sold for around $34,500, and even the 250 limited edition reissues made in the 1990s, hand signed by both Dora and Noll, are highly prized by collectors. Today, I’ll be...
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S2 E14: The Lost Coast
Today Billy Jack reads the short story The Lost Coast from our friend Drew Kampion’s book The Lost Coast: Stories from the Surf. This one is for all the surfers in the PNW. If you would like to help support the podcast you can do so by visiting buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to do so. It…
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S2 E13: Selections from Chris Ahrens book Joyrides; Surf Stories Volume Two
Today’s episode marks our return to our short story format for the rest of this season. I’ve pulled from the surfer library bookshelf author Chris Ahrens book Joyrides; Surf Stories Volume Two. I’ve selected three of the many great stories to share with you today, The Relic, King of the…
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S2 E12: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel Chapter 52 - 59
This episode we wrap up our reading of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com. If you want to help support the podcast you can visit...
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S2 E11: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel Chapter 47 - 51
Chapters 47 through 51 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com. If you want…
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S2 E10: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel Chapter 39 - 46
Chapters 39 through 46 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com. If you want…
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S2 E9: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel Chapter 35 - 38
Chapters 35 through 38 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com. If you want…
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S2 E8: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel Chapter 31 - 34
Chapters 31 through 34 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com. If you want…
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S2 E7: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel Chapter 27 - 30
Chapters 27 through 30 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com. If you want…
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S2E6: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel Chapter 22-26
Chapters 22 through 26 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com. If you want…
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S2E5: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel Chapter 17 - 21
Billy Jack reads chapter 17 through 21 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on...
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S2E4: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel Chapter 13 -16
Billy Jack is back this week reading from chapter 13 and continues through chapter 16 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season....
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S2E3: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel Chapter 8 - 12
Billy Jack picks up reading on chapter 8 and continues through chapter 12 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is...
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S2E2: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel Chapter 4 - 7
Billy Jack reads chapters 4 through 7 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we are going to read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase...
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S2E1: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel Chapter 1 - 3
Billy Jack kicks off summer 2026 and season 2 of the podcast reading Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. This episode we read chapters one through three. Make sure you come back each episode as we are going to read…
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S1E14: The Last Wave by Greg Noll and Andrea Gabbard
Today Billy Jack reads The Last Wave by Greg Noll and Andrea Gabbard from the book The Big Drop edited by John Long. In 1969 Greg Noll took off on one of the biggest waves ever at Makaha and nearly died in the process. After barely surviving the wipeout, he realized he’d pushed it as far as he...
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History of Surfing: Chapter 3 – Malibu Swing, 1945 to Late 1950s, Part 2
Today we wrap up part two in a supersized episode in which Billy reads the second half of Chapter 3: Malibu Swing 1945 - late 1950s from Matt Warshaw's The History of Surfing. We pick up with Dewey Weber, Tubesteak Tracy and Miki Dora as they define the 50's surfer style... Enjoy!
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History of Surfing: Chapter 3 – Malibu Swing, 1945 to Late 1950s, Part 1
Today in part one of a two part series Billy reads the first half of Chapter 3: Malibu Swing 1945 - late 1950s from Matt Warshaw's The History of Surfing. The History of Surfing is a comprehensive and meticulously researched chronicle that explores surfing's evolution from its ancient Polynesian...
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The Last of the Golden Years in Surfing: Stories by Waterman Conrad Louis Canha, Part 2
Today Billy continues reading from Francine Park Palama's book: The Last of the Golden Years in Surfing: Stories by Waterman Conrad Louis Canha. The book is a collection of stories by legendary surfer Conrad Louis Canha, who is credited with founding the "Hot-Dog" style of surfing. In this book,...
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The Last of the Golden Years in Surfing: Stories by Waterman Conrad Louis Canha, Part 1
Today Billy reads from Francine Park Palama's book: The Last of the Golden Years in Surfing: Stories by Waterman Conrad Louis Canha. The book is a collection of stories by legendary surfer Conrad Louis Canha, who is credited with founding the "Hot-Dog" style of surfing. In this book, Canha…
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The South Swell
This episode Billy reads The South Swell, the first chapter from the book Big Wednesday by Denny Aaberg and John Milius.
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Aloha Mike Hynson and Dale Dobson
In this special episode we bid farewell to two surfing greats, Mike Hynson and Dale Dobson.
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In The Beginning by Ricky Grigg
Today Billy Jack reads a story told by pioneer big wave surfer Ricky Grigg from the book The Big Drop edited by John Long.
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Modern Surfing Around The World: Part 1
Today Billy Jack reads Part 1 of John Severson‘s 1964 book Modern Surfing Around The World.
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To Experience Surfing / When Nothing Else Matters
Today, Billy reads two stories, To Experience Surfing and When Nothing Else Matters, from Drew Kampion’s book The Lost Coast.
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Mexico
Today Billy Jack reads the short story Mexico from Drew Kampion’s book The Lost Coast: Stories from the Surf.
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Long Day
Today Billy Jack reads the story Long Day from Drew Kampion’s book The Lost Coast: Stories from the Surf
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The Death of Dickie Cross
On December 22, 1943, Woody Brown drove across the island to the North Shore with a gung-ho high school surfer named Dickie Cross. It would be Dickie Cross's last day. Today Billy Jack reads from The Big Drop: Classic Big Wave Surfing Stories by John Long
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sixty6
Today, Billy Jack reads Sixty6 from Drew Kampion's book The Lost Coast – Stories from the Surf. Tune in and experience this captivating tale from one of our tribes most celebrated storytellers.
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Frequently Asked Questions
How many episodes does The Surfer’s Library have?
The Surfer’s Library currently has 49 episodes available on PodParley. New episodes are automatically indexed when they're published to the podcast feed.
What is The Surfer’s Library about?
I’m just a surfer reading about surfing so you can listen to stories about surfing when you’re not surfing. Stay stoked!
How often does The Surfer’s Library release new episodes?
The Surfer’s Library has 49 episodes. Check the episode list to see recent publication dates and frequency.
Where can I listen to The Surfer’s Library?
You can listen to The Surfer’s Library on PodParley by clicking any episode. We provide an embedded audio player for direct listening, and you can also subscribe via your preferred podcast app using the RSS feed.
Who hosts The Surfer’s Library?
The Surfer’s Library is created and hosted by Billy Jack.
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